alpine et

I know as of end of April that the road was still closed due to snow http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/giffordpinchot/recarea/?recid=72029 but was curious when this road typically opens? Or when those familiar with the area think it might open this year? Seems the melt is on early this year... the closest SNOTEL site seems to be this one at Potato Hill http://www.wcc.nrcs.usda.gov/nwcc/site?sitenum=702&state=wa which is still showing about 3'. Hoping this might clear up by mid-June... will watch that snotel site, but curious if any locals had good info? thanks Erik

I'm sure you'll get better responses from those more experienced, but I think the issue you'll run into is you'll have to be continuously pulling slack through the grigri, unless you modify it. ( like this ) backing up jumars with something like a mini traxion might be an easier system to use...

have loved gaia on the iphone. certainly eats battery life, even after you optimize all the settings. I do usually let it track me, since I enjoy looking at the route on google earth later. I've resigned to carry a battery along, which gives about 2-3 charges.... just keep it in a plastic bag near your body to keep it warm, and it's all good. http://www.mophie.com/shop/universal-batteries/powerstation-smart-phones-tablets

seems you learned a lesson about conditions... though I feel the need to mention for others who read this who might not realize the seriousness of this area in the wrong conditions. can't imagine a worse time to pick out a steep south face to climb...

I've never used a tag line, but I thought it was usually set up to always pull the tag line. That way the increased friction that is likely to be found on the thicker strand of your climbing rope won't tend to pull the knot down... it'll get blocked by moving by the anchor (or ice). I guess the only advantage to this system is that you immediately start getting climbing rope back when you pull.... so if anything were to get stuck, you're not left with just tag line?

discussion on extending the rappel got me googling around for some ideas, and this setup from the petzl website seems pretty slick... a hard connection and an intermediate point for the device with one (I'd bet double?) sling. but, to stay a bit on topic, sweet pics guys. really dig seeing that side of the mountain in the early morning light.

Still have some packs left - prices reduced below... Images here Osprey Stratos 40L day pack: $20 Osprey Argon 85L backpack: $80 Black Diamond leather gloves: $25 Vasque mountaineering boots: $30 Grivel v-thread tool: $10 / free with another purchase

Anyone been around Baker Lake recently? Looking at driving up NF-1152 up towards Shannon Ridge. I realize its not gonna be driveable anywhere near the trailhead, but I was hoping to get an idea of how long the slog would be. If you'd like to take some of the adventure out of it for us - feel free! most recent info here, which is mostly useless at this point... thanks

Liberty bell is a classic. On the weekends it'll be crowded. On weekdays you still are likely to see other people if weather is good. You could do a route on Shuksan as a closer alternative. If rock is sounding good, though, also consider Burgundy Spire... it has a 5.8 route up it. Longer approach than Liberty Bell, but more interesting climbing and less crowded. Could do the linkup with Pisano Pinnacle to Burgundy Spire if you're efficient... When I climbed the N. Ridge we didn't set any speed records for sure, but were bummed to not have planned to be able to crash at camp after the climb. Walking out in the dark after the early start was rough...

...update for availability...

Pictures and descriptions here. Quick list below: Atomic Janak skis 163 (111-99-121) with Naxo NX21 bindings. I'll throw in skins too: $275 Patagonia Cragmaster approach shoes (size Mens 8) : $50 Osprey Stratos 40L day pack: $30 Osprey Argon 85L backpack: $85 Black Diamond leather gloves: $30 Vasque mountaineering boots: $40 Grivel v-thread tool: $10

gotcha - thanks guys. see everybody out there.........

Anyone hear anything further about this: http://www.king5.com/news/environment/New-Safety-Concerns-on-Columbia-River-249989341.html The Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife has closed five different sites, including Yo Yo, Old Vantage Highway, Sunland Estates, buckshot, and Frenchman Coulee/Climbing Rocks.

http://www.gayoutdoors.org/page.cfm?typeofsite=storydetail&id=992&storyset=yes ...fair enough. But I only pretend to be a dirtbag climber - I'd happily plop down $8 for some climbing pron entertainment.

lesson number one... sneak in the back door.

Hyak or one of the other areas on the south side of I90.

beautiful sunset colors!! was there just before new years and there were barely any clouds in the sky.... nice enough to warm days climbing, but boring sunrise/sunsets...

FWIW this is a shot of the basin and slide area on Sunday. Two parties of two near the notch, and two starting down below. Suspiciously human sized tree in between. When I topped out into the basin I skinned up and over a low angle super stiff windslab (loaded up from a northerly winds). Couldn't even get my ski edge into the thing... would have thought it was just scoured to old crust if it weren't for the deep hollow sound. Glad it was on like 10 degree slope... [img:left]https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1502522_10105793667430914_815138452_n.jpg[/img]

Sunday wasn't too crazy. We started off from the parking lot at 730ish on skis, passed pretty quickly by some snow shoers. Skiing was certainly slower until at least Source Lake... By the time we popped up on the ridge we had opted to enjoy a mellow day, ski the good snow we passed by and forgo the climb. There was certainly one party of two on the route, with perhaps a second one bailing at the top of the ice (?) not too crowded!

With pictures like those, I'm not sure I'd call this an unsuccessful trip. Would love to join you guys if another window, with less wind, opens up.The sunshine in JTree was pleasant as a light breeze blew while I read your TR...

i can't imagine hauling a month's worth of water. or poo.

No my calendar isn't broken. But... let's say it's October and you're looking to plan a trip to do some mountaineering... mostly beginner to intermediate glacier climbs. Short moderate ice steps doable. Alpine rock nearby would be cool too, perhaps just sunny rock at lower elevations or some trekking in the area. Where would you go? Looking to make a month of it from mid-Sept to mid-October..... Thinking of New Zealand / Thailand combination possibly. Any thoughts are much appreciated!

something high... decent snow didn't start until 5600' off SR2 this past weekend, and its only gotten warmer since, I believe.

I have some scarpa spirit3 boots that are 28.5.... I can send pictures tonight if you are interested. ...actually just found the link: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1103952/FS_Scarpa_spirit3_boots_MH_sle#Post1103952

I've got a BD Ascender. I thought I was going to climb aid. I'm scared enough climbing 5.6 splitter cracks and really hope I won't revert any further and need an ascender to free anything anytime soon. I messed around with it and ascended a few fixed ropes, and it hasn't been dropped. In great shape. $40. Can meet in Ballard or downtown during the weekdays.