David ODonnell

Trip: Mt Rainier - D.C Route Date: 9/27/2012 Trip Report: Warm stable weather over 26-27th September. Started out from Paradise at 10.30 hrs and set up camp at Muir. Two larger guided parties and a few small non-guided parties present on the evening of the 26th. Beautiful sunset at Muir. This was the lastest in the season I had been up on Rainier and I was amazed at how much the conditions had changed since my last trip up at the end of June. Stephane and I headed out across the Cowlitz from Muir at 02:00 hrs. Definately the warmest I've been on Rainier. Climbed the entire route in just a base layer and a softshell. as we crested Cathedral gap, we met two non guided parties on descent, who reported that the Ingram was very broken. The worn trail up the Ingram was difficult to follow at night and we ended up off course and quickly found ourselves dead ended by impassable crevasses. The glacier conditions just off the main route felt very unstable with some loud cracking noises underneath us. We were forced to back track through the crevasse maze, loosing approximately 1 hour on our ascent. We quickly found a ladder crossing a large crevasse high on the SW corner of the Ingram, and it was obvious we were back on the guided route. We crossed a total of 3 ladders on the Ingram glacier, installed by the guiding companies at approximately 11350ft, without these the route would be considerably more difficult. the Clever is now one long scree section up too about 12,400ft. Some fascinating Sastrugi formations above this. There was alot of zig zagging up higher, around large open crevasse lines between 12,500ft and approximately 14,000ft due to the broken state of the Glacier. We reached the crater rim at approximately 0900 hrs. We descended via the same route. The descent featured some interesting moments over one or two melting snow bridges and a slightly tedious section getting off the Clever and back onto the Ingram glacier, which seemed to be moating out as the Glacier moves outwards from the Clever with the warm conditions. We returned to camp Muir at 1330 hrs making it an 11hr 27 return trip from Muir to summit. pictures Flickr Weather observations WED 26 - Mostly sunny. free air freezing 11,500ft THU 26 - Mostly sunny. free air freezing 13,000ft wed night Muir - 37f - summit 22f (wind westerly 15mph) thu day Muir - 43f - summit 27f (wind north westerly 8mph) Gear Notes: Standard Glacier travel equipment. 2 ice screws / 2 pickets

is anyone interested in some cragging Friday morning and into the afternoon? I can climb from 10-3pm Cheers!

Hey mate... are you still free for Rainier?... or has the moment passed? I'm generally free weekdays but not weekends. cheers! Dod.

I can go next Friday 30th if your keen??

hey dude! if your keen if you want to climb tomorrow...send me a ping and we can go out tomozy morning. I'll be up early and its not too hot these days so we can take a sporty start if you want? davidmobile@live.com.au

Hi mate! i probably be free for a climb tomorrow. I've been to Index which is fun! - also im keen to check out some sport climbing at exit 38!... I dont have a car though :-( lemmi know if your keen? cheers! David

If anyone is interested below is a link to my photo album. mostly Auzzie Rock and Skiing stuff: http://www.flickr.com/photos/46067654@N00/

I'm a Visiting Australian climber in Seattle looking for partners to climb with between 24th September and mid november. I have plenty of time available, particularly during the week. I have an extensive background in Rock and limited Ice experience. I'm 33, level headed, Very fit and have an easy going character. I'm doing a week long course on Ice and Glacier travel this comming week to get me up to speed on areas that I lack experience in. I have All the alpine equipment nescassary to do any of the bigger peaks around Seattle including 4 season tent, crampons, axes, rope etc etc. I'm realy keen to meet some motivated climbers in and around Seattle and would love to explore more of the Cascades or other Volcanic peaks. (Rainier, Glacier, Bonanza, Eldorado are on the list...but im pretty easy going and flexible..and open to other suggestions) I'm an inclusive personality rather than exclusive, so if you'd like to get out and about PM me or send an email davidmobile@live.com.au cheers! DOD.

Hi there! sounds like we have much in common! My name is David. Also staying in Seattle up until November. I'm realy keen to do all those peaks on your list!. I'm available from the 23rd September onwards, so lets connect! Would love to do Rainier, Glacier, Shuksan etc.. similar background. Extensive experience on rock (have been climbing for 10 years) limited alpine experience (I'm Australian) but am comming off an Ice course next week to fill in the "sport climber blanks". Im pretty leg fit at the moment as have been doing lots of hikking and scrambling in the Cascades. I'll send u an email