ChrisCNY

I personally use the Rab Neutrino Endurance Jacket for all my belay needs here in the Northeast. Rab added 25 more grams of down for the Fall 2016 model and this thing is a furnace. My personal opinion is Rab makes some of the best down clothing available. Plus, it's hydrophobic! I totally understand the need for a good synthetic coat though!

Not sure anyone makes a completely waterproof belay-specific jacket, unless you buy one of those $900 options from Arc'teryx= second mortgage. These jackets are more for skiing than climbing. Outdoor Research has their Fllodlight Jacket which is their alpine climbing specific down belay jacket with a waterproof shell, but it isn't seam-taped. I've tried this on at the shop and I personally don't think it's as warm as other options out there. They need to fill it with more down! Outdoor Research also has their Diode Hooded Jacket which is a blend of synthetic PrimaLoft and 700 fill down. For synthetics, Outdoor Research came out with their new Perch Belay Jacket this fall. 200 g/m2 of PrimaLoft Gold on the body and 180 g/m2 in the sleeves/hood. Reasonably priced compared to the DAS and way cheaper than the Dually Belay Parka.

I too have thought a vest would add the additional insulation I need without being too bulky or warm. This winter will be my first season, so I have no field use yet. I purchased the OR Cathode Hoody. 60g's PrimaLoft Gold mixed in with soft panels on the sides to allow heat to escape. I plan on wearing the vest over my R1 Hoody. We'll see how it works out!

From the Cold Thistle website - You may want to take a look at the Lowa 6000 EVO RD. It's a double boot and, according to Dane, it "fixes" the minor issues the Phantom 6000s have.

I wear a 45 also and have had great luck (width wise) with the Scarpa Phantom 6000's. I have a some-what wide fore-foot and these boots fit like a glove. Very well made and even hike pretty well too. Scarpa Phantom 6000 Review. Also, I've read good things about the Lowa Expedition 6000 Evo RD Lowa Expedition 6000 EVO RD Review.

Thanks as always, Dane.

Dane - So, when you say you swap the Petzl parts for the Black Diamond pieces, are you referring to the lever-lock or the whole heal piece (spikes and all)? I'm currently using Lynx crampons coming from Sabertooth's. I agree and like the BD lever better, so I'd like to switch the Petzl lever to a BD if that's possible?

Knifeblade pant discussion here. I ordered the Knifeblade's and wasn't impressed with the size and cut. Way to baggy on the men's medium. The Power Shield Pro appears top-notch, but I don't think the seams are taped, making them not waterproof. In soaking, pouring rain, I wouldn't trust them to keep water out. Plus, they would take a lot longer to dry than the Precip pants would.

Does anyone know where I can buy just a BD heel?

I used the R1/Gamma MX combo all last year and feel like I've struck gold. It has served me very well on water ice and alpine route here in the Northeast.

Thanks for the review. I'm interested to see if your thoughts / expectations have changed post Shasta.

I picked up the Nilas in December when Backcountry had it on sale after Black Friday. Just a few thoughts : I'm 5'10" 168 pounds and got the medium. It fits well, but the hood is terrible! I thought maybe a large would be better, but after trying it on, the large was way, way too big. I can't believe the size difference! Back to the hood - For waterfall / slide climbing, I wear a Cap 2, and R1 Hoody and an Gamma MX Hoody. When wearing my "action suit," I can't zip the Nilas all the way up, even with the hood off. It's next near impossible to get the hood over my layers and my BD Vector helmet. Very disappointed to say the least. Glad I didn't pay full retail!! The coldest I've worn the Nilas is 5F with nasty windchill values. It was warm and did the job. I feel like it should be warmer though. I don't know, maybe it's just me. I don't get cold easy, either. When Backcountry get a Neutrino Plus or whatever Fall 2013 brings, I'm definitely going to exchange the Nilas. Oh yeah, I got the men's medium in orange and the color rocks! Mountain Hardwear nailed the color!

Definite thumbs way up for Backcountry.com. best in the business in my opinion. Their return policy is second to none which allows you to try on, use and decided whether that specific article is right for you. Top company, hands down! For what it's worth, I climbed in the Kayland Hyper Traction last year and thought they were pretty cool.

I have the new men's Patagonia Mixed Guide Pants (Powershield and H2NO in the knees and ass.) I just got them, but they fit awesome. I also have the men's Westcomb Chief Bib . Again, a mix of Powershield and eVent. I'm a big fan of the hybrid pants. They breath exceptional due to the softshell, but waterproof and seam taped where you need it the most.

I'm a big Westcomb fan. Personally, I would wait for the new Neoshell line they are unveiling this fall / winter. I have a Westcomb Chimera eVent / PrimaLoft jacket and am very happy with Westcomb's customer service and quality. All their gear is manufactured in Canada and has a superb reputation in the peaks. Good luck!

Thanks guys for the help. I think I will order the Hyper's and see how they feel.

Integral Designs makes a short eVent gaiter for trail hiking in muddy, wet conditions. I've heard they work pretty well. http://www.integraldesigns.com/product_detail.cfm?id=765

I am contemplating a purchase of either the Kayland M11+ or the HyperTraction mountaineering boots for winter use. I don't intend on doing any glacier / volcanic work in them in the near future, but need a warm, well built workhorse for winter summits in the Adirondack High Peaks. I own and use a pair of Kaylands for my 3 season use and love them. I would like to stay with Kayland, and am thinking more towards the HyperTractions mainly due to the extra PrimaLoft insulation. I am a bit concerned with the rigidity of the Hyper's because I will need to be able to put miles of approach with snowshoes and or crampons, but might want the rigidity later when crampons are warranted. Any suggestions or info would be great! I am not afforded the opportunity to try them on, so that's why I ask. -Chris

I don't know how many people use Westcomb products, but they are nothing short of the best you can get. Had an issue with the Recon I purchased (not quality) and their customer service was beyond anything I've ever experienced. Very customer orientated.