The Ospray

This is why it's usually best to mind one's own fucking business. Just a suggestion. Helmets and running protection have never been standard fare on the South climb. Not sure why you feel the need spoil your otherwise good TR with a sermon. Hey FW - next time could you do me a favor and tie some knots in the ends of your rope? Mmmkay? Thanks. Exactly. I'm not sure two years of experience gives our young padawan license to lecture anyone. I just want to know if guys like RJ carry a badge so I can identify them and whip out my helmet real quick-like and put it on before I get lectured 'n shit. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=862264 Amen Fairweather! Amen! :lmao:

Great video, and nicely done guys!

P1 is one of the easier pitches of the route at 11a (sandbag!) The Green Dragon is a freeroute! I agree! I tryed to free it at the time, but it was quite dirty back then and I had to garden many placements, I recall pulling up the ladders half way because it was just too much gardening. Someone was already on the 1st pitch of Davis Holland, and you came and started up the 1st pitch of Green Dragon and beat them to the ledge by 45 minutes? Were they aiding the first pitch and total dweebs, because that sounds pretty farfetched......and troll-like... Since I dont waste time filiming every one of my placements for my next "epic" video, I do just fine. And no I was not wearing a watch. Oh ya we left the portaledge, two haubags and the Boston at home. I think that sped things up a bit as well:fahq:

P1 is one of the easier pitches of the route at 11a (sandbag!) The Green Dragon is a freeroute! I agree! I tryed to free it at the time, but it was quite dirty back then and I had to garden many placements, I recall pulling up the ladders half way because it was just too much gardening.

You guys do the real first pitch? It seems no on does it any more. My friend and I did it a couple of years ago, and we came up and there where some guys about to get on the TC/DH 5.9 start. I started my way up the real Green Dragon start and they guys yelled over, hey what route are you doing, we said Green Dragon. The guy said "No, WE are doing Green Dragon"... I beat the guy to the ledge by about 45 minnutes, end of story!

Thanks. I gotta check that out!

Classic! I love that area. Todd

Amen brother! My friend and I did it nearly clean in 2000. My partner nailed a pin on the original first pitch, and some free climbers walked by and gave us shit. I said well we will leave the hammer on the ground and so we did. Topped out eight or so hours later in the dark, that scramble off was really scary. I think we might have used a stick clip once or twice but with all the offsets, hooks, ball nuts etc, I bet it would go. Leave the hammer and pins on the ground! Thanks for the pics, reminded me of what a fun day of suffering we had. Thats cool most of the bolts got replaced, there was a lot of mank back then too! Todd

Winning! looks like you got at least one to take the bait And its Checat to boot! I've read his a few of his posts in the past and he is for sure one of the biggest tool bags on the fourm. Todd

Great pictures!

Curious as to why you brought a RURP? (I have a feeling you may be mistaken by the name) RURPs are pointless these days unless you are aiding a horizontal hariline seam. The cable on them is only swaged to hold like 500lbs. Specters, Angles, LAs and large sized BD peckers seem more appropriate these days for mixed terrain. Oh and nice TR, it was a pleasure to read. Chair is one of my favorite quick little climbs. Cheers Todd

Sure? Jim had said it had never been done before, certainly was not in Tims book, and we didn't see any evidence of a prior ascent. If you did you must have bagged the FA. Tell us about it. Name of who you climbed it with, dates, pro, where you went or finished etc etc? We'll make sure you get credit for it. Wow didnt think we had done an FA... I'll write some more in a little bit then!

Hey Billcoe... Im prettysure my friend and I aided that thing back in the late 90's, I can't recall a name though.

Great thread... finally no bullshit between you guys! Todd

shit, that aint' bad! I like "Falcon Soup" since its the only thing open during the closure, what the hell else are you going to do but have a bowl of "falcon soup". Maybe "falcon stew" would be better since it took a long time and a lot of work to put up. And a lot of random shit was thrown in there by the sounds of it.

Did my post just sail right over everones heads with those strong gorge winds? And again stevetimetravler you dont know what I've done/seen. I hope you didnt take offense to my ass comment but its just like you guys think JosephH is an ass for thinking its a bad route when he hasnt climbed it, same shit! Cheers Todd

Hey all so as I've lurked on the boards the past few years and out at Beacon for 15 or so years. I feel like I may as well voice my opinion on this one here. I know I'll get shit for this one and everone will want to see pictures, but hopefully not from Pink, since it turns out we acctually know eachother and have some close mutual friends. Anyways but ya sorry Ivan I've got to agree with Andrew here. I've totally witnessed you beacon guys aid reniassance through the boards here and gotta say am pretty dissapointed in it. It seems as though you guys wanna dumb aid climbing down and make it an everymans game. As I read it on here you guys as aid climbers added bolts to a FREE climb? I mean comeon, I hear plenty about free climbers adding bolts to AID routes, but this just sounds bad and down right makes aid climbing look stupid, silly and as archaic as most people think it is now a days. I aided plenty of free climbs in my day, but never once felt the need to spew about it and make videos for all to see, I always thought it was a little embarrassing. I think you guyse need to take a look at what went on in the late 90's in Yosemite guys like Warren Hollinger, Grant Gardner, Bryan Law, Eric George & Steve Gergberding had an aid renniassance of their own, but this was a little differnt. The object was new lines with as low of a hole count as possible. By the sounds of it here you guys placed about 56 bolts and fixed peices in 500' feet. So if this where a 2500' route on elcap that would equate to about 270 holes on a route, any one in Yosemite would consider this an abortion. Plus if you ever left fixed pins on any real aid route they would be gone in a heartbeat. Now albeit this is not Yosemite were talking about but as a bunch of aspiring big wall climbers you guys gotta see it like this eh? Beacons all we got so treat it like its our own El Cap. And also I gotta say it but sorry stevetimetravlr you just sound like an ass when you say its a good route and you have not even climbed it yet. I have not said if its a good or bad route yet so don't attack me, I just see some numbers and some well respected opinions and points of veiw here. Lastly Ivan please don't take this personally, I will still gladly share a beer with you and maybe even hop on some real aid pitches once the time comes to get in the rhthym for my El Cap solo in the fall. Cheers Todd

Nice job! How long do you think the approach to California Ice would take if you had not have messed up. Thinking about heading that way sometime this season before its too late. Cheers.

real or no-real, bird, welcome aboard - i'm hoping you're real as i've said, and to tie in w/ you someday - gonna be around anytime in the next few weeks? would dig on seeing what you have to do aroudn here on to show you what the bacon-wand has to offer after the closure sets in - would like to do a new route on the n side this winter and have precious few fools to help out w/ Cheers Ivan, I think I'm done with thie site for awhile but I imagine I can track you down on here when I've got some time.

Pink your the epitomy of an internet looser. Whats your god damn problem with me? I did not see you up there trying to climb it now did I? why dont you talk about you climbs instead of being a dick to me. I don't NEED pictures stories are okay too. Until then fuck off.

Mostly in the early to mid 90's, then off and on since then. Then a friend and I did quite a few of the aid routes back in 03-05 when we where training for a harder aid route on the capitain. Alot of that was done in shitty weather just like Ivan. My socks still have not dried out Cheers Perhaps you will post photos and I'll have to apologize for this but... bullshit. How many fake screen names do you have? Wheres your pictures and what the fuck have you done KirkW. I'm sick of this site you guys are all a bunch of fucking clowns with no lives, who consistantly fight about nothing. I've read this site for years before I bothered to post on here and I've seen it all. You Columbia Gorge and Portland guys are a bunch of fucking loosers. Theres a reason not many of you know me. I'm done with your guys bull shit. Have fun with your bitching.

Wow fucking cool dude! Way to be an ass.

Great trip report! Did this one about 15 years ago. I agree about the variation to the flair thank god a freind of ours did it just before and mentioned it to us. Surprised it still has not shown up on a topo yet.

Oh don't be shy, I've been shy for too long, I thought I saw a picture you posted of something hard on the Dawn wall... possibly was Space? Very cool looking line, if so, how was it? Did you do the real finish? I heard most parties finish on Mescalito or what ever. Forgot to mention I did Mescalito as well! Did spent 10 days on it in 95, best route of my god damn life. Also the longest I've ever spent on a route, god damn 10 days is a lot longer and harder than 5. Cheers

Nothing too hard, we did Auroa in the summer, and Zenyatta in winter. Hence the bad weather training, but we wound up having perfect January weather. Also did the Diheadral, Salathe and Zodiac back in the mid 90's. Finally managed a solo of the Trip last year wich was harder than both of those combined, but for some reason I'm already considering another... we will just have to wait and see. What about you?