downey

spend the $100 or so and buy a silnylon tarp like the betalite or megalite (i'd vote for the megalite for 3 person versatility. Your knees will be happier on the down at least which has some dollar value. Also, silnylon holds up great in my experience so long as you don't let your anchors (rocks, limbs) come in contact with the fabric... in fact, they have surprised me with their durability and stormworthyness - hard to imagine a blue tarp would perform near as well in that department.

rime tunnling isn't something i'm particularly psyched on becoming familiar with. nice work and thanks for the TR.

I thought you were probably being overly dramatic with the opening description... after looking at the pics, that's definitely not the case. Holy shit dude.. hats off.

BAD ASS! nice TR, way to get after it, thanks for posting!

how do i edit my TR? don't have the option

haha.. typo. ment colchuck dragontail col (climbers left of colchuck). my bad!

regardless whether it's mine or not, that's good karma dude!

a couple small BD nuts hammered into a shitty flairied cracks and with oz biners, also high on NF

Thanks for the TR!

... and I thought it was gonna be too warm... proved me wrong

lol hope you're havin a productive and safe ice climbing trip, lee! get strong so you can rope gun me up some crazy shit!

haha knew i'd catch some response like this. It's fair game, so it's yours if you got it without being dammed to climbing hell. Having that said, I'd appreciate it back. Here's a compromise - let's go climbing some time and I'll buy the gas... AND a beer?... and burger? no sexual favors though, sorry (in case you were trying to be discrete .

Trip: Snoqualmie - NY Gully, again Date: 2/11/2012 Trip Report: NYG is in great, so get after it! There's enough sticky ice/snice to cover up much of the mixed climbing i've read about (my first time on the peak). Looks like there's a lot of ice on that peak right now... Also, My belay parka (green, stuffed in it's pocket pouch) came unclipped while I was climbing the first dihedral pitch (the 'money' pitch ). Couldn't find it at the base of the route.. might be on a ledge somewhere. If you find it, please let me buy you a beer or something to have it back! This was a really fun climb, close to the road and it deserves the extra attention it gets on cc.com. Here's some more pics for ya: Gear Notes: Brought green C3- #3 Camalot plus orange, red, black metolius, a stubby, and several pins (Knifeblades and LA's), med-sm nuts, a dozen slings and a couple double length, twin ropes. A less beefy rack would have been fine in these conditions IMO. Approach Notes: No floatation required... a little soft coming down though.

Tues doesn't work for me. What about thurs 2/16? RSVP 614 315 6226 I'm hoping to hear from more ppl still... There's no way in hell everyone is that dialed. Are there any climbers in Bellingham??

Glad to hear from you all! I'll be in touch soon.

Inspired by a sad story, I'd like to invite any climbers interested in improving their self rescue competency to meet at my house Wed, Feb 15th or 16th around 6 or some other time that works for you. I hope to teach, practice, and learn/disuss new ways to execute any of the skills listed below. Some examples of topics are: 1) Getting "hands free" from the belay 2) Escaping the system 3) Ascending a rope 4) Haul Systems 5) Passing a knot while rappelling or lowering a victim 6) Different methods of rappelling with a victim 7) transitions 8) other considerations i.e. combative victims, considerations with half/twin ropes, etc, This is intended for climbers of ALL experience and skill levels. Perhaps an IFMGA certified guide would not find this mind blowing, but I think nearly all recreational climbers would improve their efficiency by attending a monthly get together like this. Guilt trip: Your partners life may depend on you being solid with these skills someday. RSVP below and feel free to post questions/comments if interested, even if the above date/time doesn't work with your schedule. If there's a consensus on an ideal meeting date/time then I'll do my best to be flexible. Cheers, Braden post note.. I've taken my AMGA Rock Instructor corse and Rock Guide Corse/Aspirant Exam (pass). This means I'm not a COMPLETE idiot when it comes to this stuff ;D *I suggest you know or learn how to equalize an anchor and tie a clove hitch, munter hitch, mule tie off, klemheist, autobloc, prussic beforehand

ya me too. My roomate's burnt out friend probably swiped them off the stairs (along with a couple packs (45L, bullet) but I haven't lost hope yet that they'll be discovered up at the TH. If someone finds them, a meal, beer tab, gas money on a climbing trip, etc - on me! God i hope they show up. tks for keeping a lookout!!

Both my climbing partner and I are 90% sure they were stolen off my stairs along with my pack but there's a slim chance they are buried in the Heliotrope TH parking lot (we went back to check to no avail) The tools are pretty beat up and have relatively new T rated picks on them. Also missing a yellow/grey 45 L bd pack w/crampon pouch that's beat to hell and missing the brain compartment. thanks for keeping an eye out for me.

nice job! and tks for the conditions report!

way to keep the stoke up and still get after it with the less than ideal temps

wayne, here's a crappy pic of Will's ass and the steepest northern aspect of Sloan ('at the top and to the right' from where we unroped after the first crux pitches). I looked over there and couldn't spot a continuous line through that part of the wall. The ice features seemed to dead end into formidable and sketchy looking dry tooling. Don't let this dissuade you though.. maybe with fatter conditions and/or some high end mixed skills.

thanks for coming up with a definitive answer on the line we took, will. lot's more to do out there (obviously). i'm curious what other lines will someday be put up on this thing... GET PSYCHED

way to get after it buddy! looks like some great views.

send train!

way to go dudes! the cascades are a special place