downey

NICE WORK GENTS!!! well written TR as well.

I'm planning a trip to the bugs around the first 2 weeks of Sept and am looking for a competent wall climber to join me. I prefer speed climbing longer routes but would enjoy free climbing shorter objectives as well. Here's a recent conditions report: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/bugaboo-conditions/107246380#a_107248513 PM me if interested. Thanks, Braden

AWESOME! thanks for sharing

sooo badass! super inspiring! nice work and TR

i'm looking for someone to climb ice/mixed stuff here in the cascades... I'm pretty new to the NW (bellingham) and could use a bit of guidance but could also be a great partner. Also, I would be psyched to climb some rock, from local b'ham crags to early winter spire walls and traverses. thanks for lookin

thanks wbk... nice job yourselves - you guys were moving pretty quick. I rounded the first step and you were gone, otherwise i would have said hi.

jens, i wouldn't be surprised if we bypassed the crux somehow, but i would be surprised if we were too far climber's right. we climbed past a pair of crampons on a hex if that indicates anything. The rock scar to the left looks like something from utah. Is that where you consider the crux? regardless, it was a fun time, we learned a lot, and that's what really matters to me.

bad ass! nice pics, nice work. looks like a great route.

i appreciate the enthusiasm from many of you as well as constructive feedback like wayne's

yup - it was great running into you. props for saying f*#$ the weather and getting after it.

Trip: Mt Stuart - Girth Pillar Date: 6/17/2011 Trip Report: Early last week, my buddy Trevor called me and asked, “... are you still on for Stuart this Thursday-Friday?” I strained to remember what I had committed to over beers a few nights before. A couple days later we agreed the forecast looked good enough to hike up to Stuart to climb the ice cliff glacier. When Trevor copied the beta for ice cliff from Nelson's guidebook and noticed, “... not one of the best routes he had done in the cascades, but the best...” describing the Girth Pillar, we decided to throw some extra hardware in the duffel. After driving from Bellingham and a bit of post-holing, we arrived at the foot of Stuart with time to catch some pics of the awesome landscape . Gazing around sweeping snow slopes and steep rocky buttresses, I realized that I’m in love with the Cascades - my new backyard and a range I am still very unfamiliar with. As I peered up at the improbable ice cliff glacier and steep rock buttress that is the Girth Pillar, I remembered the reason I was there and I began to feel quite small. Since this was my first route involving a glacier and I knew we would have to carry heavy boots, crampons, axe, etc., up the route, I tried my best not to acknowledge the intimidation I felt before turning my brain off in order to get some sleep. We just climbed past the ice cliff and were near the start of the rock when I heard Trevor yell, “ICE!” I put my head down and a lone chunk of ice hit me on the back. The 4am wakeup wasn’t early enough to eliminate icefall apparently. To gain the base of the rock, we belayed for the 2nd time. I place a picket and dash to the shelter of the rock, but not before a snowball from above hit me. I belayed Trevor up and he began the first rock pitch with crampons, wet rock, and delaminating ice. Eventually he donned his pack and crampons before a cruxy move and continued up a traversing runout on wet rock in mountain boots. This pitch epitomizes the entire climb. I arrived at the 2nd pitch, high five Trevor for the character-building lead, and we change into rock shoes. Being spooked by the nature of the climbing and the periodic snow blocks the size of houses sliding off the slabs to our right, I felt inclined to tell Trevor we should not let it affect us and that we both should try to keep climbing quickly and efficiently. This would turn out to be easier said than done... “What do you think of that mushroom?” He asked me. Being relatively new to this type of alpine-stuff, I admit I don’t know. After hucking a big rock at it from a ledge to test it’s stability, he proceeded quickly underneath it before working his way over a wet slab. His block ended at the base of the headwall, identified by a picture of Kit Lewis climbing this route in WINTER! We paused a moment to consider how ridiculous a proposition climbing the last few pitches in winter seemed. Although technically harder and having the added bonus pump of hauling packs and a few icy jams, the next few pitches (5.10-5.11) felt way less of an ordeal than the approach pitches. With massive snow blocks ripping off every 30 minutes and rocks chattering down the gully on our left on a regular basis, I was a bit spooked. Consequently, I pulled through in a couple spots despite good protection and clean fall... I couldn’t get my mind past the fact that a tweaked ankle would be a very, very bad thing with retreat not being a good option at all. I’m sure some seasoned Cascade hard men and women might say I wussed out... oh well. After much hesitation, I decided to traverse left into the rock scar when possible and up a 5.10ish offwidth/squeeze. With my last piece 50’ below me and confronted with a cruxy move that would have left me hyperventilating a couple years ago, I was thankful for every wide crack I’ve ever groveled in. This was the only pitch Trevor didn’t send onsight. After tiptoeing around some death blocks and excavating some spongey lichen, I built an anchor. At this point the angle kicked back and we climbed over more “moderate” wet, icy, snowy terrain in two more blocks - including a jammed rope requiring the 2nd to self belay and some snowy covered rock climbing in crampons. Of the 13 pitches we climbed on the Pillar, I would only consider a couple of them easy - I guess ‘easy’ is a relative term, but I'd like to warn others not to underestimate the bottom and top portions of this route. Although we climbed the rock portion of the route much slower than I thought we would (about 10 hours), I’m still pretty satisfied with how it went. This was a step up for both of us in terms of commitment and involvement, with moderate ice, challenging rock, little detailed beta, and plenty of stuff raining down around us, the route had quite an ominous and adventurous feel to it. I'm happy we had beautiful weather. I can see now how some strong climbers have come out of the Cascade Range and I am psyched to call this place my home. Gear Notes: we used: 50m lead rope, 100’ haul line (had to extend it with a sling to make it work a couple times), healthy selection alpine draws and nuts, double set cams from purple metolius to #2 C4, single #3, #4. *I was reluctant to bring the 4 but found it quite useful but not essential. We also brought a tblock for hauling packs and a hook in case wet holds demanded aid. We brought 3 screws and used one. Brought and used 3 pickets. Single tool or mountain axe each was adequate with the conditions but slowed us down a bit on the snow/ice. Later season ascents will probably want a second tool each. Steel (not aluminum) crampons. Old packs we didn’t mind beating up hauling. Approach Notes: Good luck with the cross country. It may not be a bad idea to mark the river crossing as a waypoint with a GPS. The approach pointed out my weakness in navigating so I might not be the best person to give advice here.

New to Bellingham area and looking for rock, alpine, or ski partners. If seeing how many pitches we can climb in Squamish in 24 hours, or car-to-car-ing alpine stuff sounds fun, please get in touch. Also, i'd be psyched to crag moderate stuff or boulder... i just wanna get out and enjoy the sun! thanks, Braden

insane indeed!... my hands were very sore for about a week after freeing / french freeing most of my block and jugging the crux upper part. To imagine freeing those two routes is unfathomable to me! a different level... or breed of human.

If you weren't so positive we could climb the NIAD, i probably wouldn't have even gotten on the 1st pitch. This was the key to getting it done - having faith in ourselves that we could do it. This is something I hope readers take away from this TR - eliminate self limiting attitudes. Also, I'd like to emphasize how a gradual progression was used to accomplish what was over our heads only 2 weeks before: from a single pitch (risk brothers roof) -> multi pitch free route (challanger wall, cloud tower, shunes buttress)-> multi pitch french free route (rainbow wall)->enchaining a couple grade v's in zion (sheer luncacy to moonlight) in addition to a few walls below our belts... by then walking up to the nose, we knew we could get up it, although we were not sure exactly how long it would take. GET AFTER IT!!!

http://www.gravsports.com/Climbing%20Stories/Climbing_Cycle.htm

I'm kind of burnt out on Hyalite because I just spent some time there, but I'd be stoked to head up to Bannf. I'm in the Bellingham area if you want to get together. Give me a ring at 614 315 6226. Also, depending on how smoothly my day goes I might head up solo to Dragontail tonight - at latest tomorrow am. I'm meeting a buddy up there to climb this weekend, but if you wanna climb friday let me know asap. Braden

I'm new to skiing in AT boots and find it to be way more enjoyable than skiing in my mountain boots. Any opinions on when you can get by w/AT boots and when to break out the approach ski setup instead?

I went up there Thurs.. I could have probably picked a fatter line, but the low angled stuff up to 2/3rds up the route was covered in about a foot of sugar snow with about two inches of rotten ice - pretty character building but i'm new to the pac nw and not sure what you guys/gals are used to. Perhaps someone w/more experience has a better idea how the climb may have evolved w/the warmer temps since I was up there.

Hey John, I am full time climbing/skiing this winter and I'm new to the area so looking for partners. Let me know if you want to climb sometime. Braden

Hey Tom, How long are you around for? I have plans until Sun/Mon, but will be climbing/skiing full-time this winter. I can lead WI 4 /M4 comfortably and am a novice skier. I have avi gear and know how to use it and approach ski's as well. If I don't climb with you, I hope you have a good time while you're out here! Cheers, Braden

I just moved to b'ham from the Sierra and am looking to climb with someone who has a sense of NW alpine conditions and avi danger. willing to travel (down to hood or up to the rockies and in between) and psyched for long days. I have Avi1, WFR, rescue skills, approach skis, and gurr (sorry if this constitutes "spewing")! pm me b

internet dating is so stressful! isolationedsnow, I get nervous talking seriously about grades, but sometimes it's relevant info. Msg me what you want to know and i'll fill you in what i'm willing to lead and second efficiently.

I'm a WI5, M5 onsight extreme top-roper / belayer! looking for a partner (ropegun ideally) potentially anytime and anywhere in the Pac NW this winter/spring, as well as MT/WY and CAN Rockies. Also, I'm AMGA trained in the rock discipline (ARGC) if that makes my relative gumbyness in the ice realm less problematic. Shoot me a msg and let's talk. B