Captain panther

Trip: McClellan Butte - North Couloir Date: 12/22/2010 Trip Report: Went up to solo the Butte today, something I've wanted to climb for a long time since I look at it everytime I come back from Leavenworth. The snow was actually pretty fucking good the whole way up until about the last approx. 200 feet, which was flat out wallowing hell. Theres a few fun little steps of water-ice and whenever you get bored you can just climb the walls of the couloir to spice it up a bit! I took a look at the mixed pitch at the top and the dihedral looked pretty bad so I searched for other options. Everything up there is pretty much the same: 6-10 inches of snow over blank rock with some enticing looking ice that turns out to be really scary and aerated. So after like 20 feet of my pons skittering left and right and not looking much better above, I turned tail, like a lttle bitch, and post holed back to my pbrs stashed in the snow at the bottom. There's actually ICE up there! steps are kicked, go get it! That first picture is some WIE, as in EXTREME! beta alert: There's a hidden branch jug up on your left Gear Notes: pons and tools, misery-shoes for the approach wouldntve hurt. Approach Notes: flotation wouldve been nice. if i were better at skiing i wouldve skied down that bitch, if youre a good skier itd be sick! oh yeah, watch out for the ultra-pothole on road 55

i work there. i agree they totally suck as a climbing store now. but you cant fault them for being a good business, they make a shit ton of money selling soccer moms arcteryx shells that only get used between the suburban and safeway. and who among you dirtbags hasnt abused the shit out of that return policy? i know i have. i'd say rei is a shitty climbing store now yes, but they dont suck at what they do. and i bitch to my managers everyday that we dont sell anything cool anymore but to no avail!

super short notice i know, but does anyone wanna go tomorrow? im coming from tacoma. i have nothin better to do tomorrow, how bout you? call me or pm, ill check back in an hour or so and tomorrow before i leave around 430 or 5am. adam 253 353 6863

pm sent

um....28-30?

yeah, as cool as montana looks, gas prices kinda dictates lillooet. and i do love icy bc. thanks dane and gspotter

is all of rambles in? and all three pitches of icy bc? any idea on honeyman?

nice superhero goggles lowlife!

yes RUMR thats mrazek

dude if you got baker lights you got hooked up hardcore. nice tr too

hotel room in skaha with some local strongmen. nothing like getting humbled by dudes twice your age! Mr. Squiggles, sorry only tr photos, i was shitting my pants on lead so my belayer didnt get the regular ass shots

thanks BigSky! I'll try to get on all those!

fuck yeah!

Pretty sure I'll be headed to Hyalite/surrounding areas next week for four days. Any one have any suggestions of what I should get on? Since I've never been there before, I figured I'd see what you guys like the best. I'm ok leading wi4 but might wanna try a 5 or two this trip. oh and moderate multi-pitches would be sick too. I just got a copy of winter dance. What are your guys' top picks for the area?

No, this is what I wanted. I like to get other people's input and see things from every angle possible to help me understand them further. Thanks to all of you guys, I really appreciate it.

holy shit jens, how fast do you drive?

dude fuck college, it will always be there. go adventure now. it'll be alot harder when you have a real job. just make sure you dont get stuck living the easy life, you have to go back and get that degree! go see shit and think about what you really realy wanna do before you waste time and money in college trying to figure out what to study

I wanna ask all you guys out there, and ladies, that are in long term relationships or marriages, how much sacrifice do you all make? how much shit is ok to take? where do you draw the line? when you really love someone, how much do you do for them? and how long do you try before you give up? do you give up? If some big bomb gets dropped and things change between you two, how long do you work on the relationship to fix it before saying "fuck it, im just gonna be married to climbing since shes fucking easy" Any comments would be welcome. CP

damn it! im bummed i missed out on this trip!

SAVAGE! Thats totally classic Washington ice climbing! Glad you guys didnt get hurt, but definitely a badass story!

i agree with telemarker. id love to see some pictures. and i dont mean it to be rude in any way either

peakpimp you know youre already going. i think i might try to wrangle two of my other buddies into going too, but you and i have to! Thanks G-spotter. have you tried it in the winter?

I was thinking about trying Sir Donald sometime this winter and have wondered about climbing other peaks around there, Uto and Eagle among others. Have any of you done the NW ridge or north face in the winter? Any beta? And what is a good guide book for that area?

sweet pic of midnight!

Im in Tacoma and work a WILDLY changing schedule but usually have a couple days in a row off midweek. My car is good for snow and Ive been eyein both those climbs for a couple years now. PM me if you wanna get out