Jon H

Expect to ruin your pants on your first couple days out. The first time I put on crampons I didn't make it 10 steps before I snagged the cuff of my pants and put a 1/2" tear in. But that was the first and last time I ever made that mistake. I took my buddy out for his first day of ice out last season... and he SHREDDED his pants. Must have snagged them no less and 12-13 times that day. But he's a big clumsy oaf. Your mileage may vary. Skip the Seracs. Get a BD Sabertooth or Grivel G12. They walk fine. IMO it's not worth dropping "below" those crampons (in terms of aggressiveness) unless you're buying a dedicated lightweight 'pon (prob aluminum) for routes where you know with certainty there won't be any technical ice. If there's a chance you're gonna have to frontpoint, get a real set of crampons. Otherwise you'll be chopping steps like the good old days. Ditto on Coldfinger's gear list. Learn how to self rescue. Tyson and Loomis' book "Climbing Self Rescue" is a good start. Also get Mountaineering: Freedom Of The Hills and read it cover to cover 3 times. FWIW, since getting a pair of good softshell pants (Stoic Tour's - got 2 pairs on SteepandCheap for $120 and then 29.99, go figure ) I don't think I've ever worn my hardshell pants since.

Ha, epic for sure. Nice TR, good comedy and great pictures.

EFTR. That stands for Epic Fu*^*ng Trip Report.

Thanks for the info matchswain, that pretty much clears everything up. Gracias!

I was just re-watching that bad ass POV video of Colin Haley's solo in Patagonia (link HERE if you haven't seen it) and I'm having trouble figuring out his self belay system. Does anyone know anything about it or have you read about it? The viewer never sees what device he has on his harness, so I suppose the only way to know would be from an interview/slideshow where he "spilled the beans" so to speak. Also, how was the whole system rigged? Did he have to rap down, unfix his anchor, and then jug the pitch again? Or did he only place pro for a single pitch/ropelength, and therefore not need to do any rapping/jugging/backcleaning? But if this is the case, how did he get his rope back for the rappel? Also - what rope was that? It looked awfully skinny and awfully static (i.e. thin white cord with no colorful markings). If anyone has any insight to share it would be greatly appreciated.

Nice TR! Bummer to hear about your friend's shoulder injury. I had an anterior dislocation and torn rotator cuff a couple years ago. I was out for 7 months but I'm back and climbing stronger than I ever have, so tell him to hang (no pun intended) in there! On another note, I'm stuck out here on the East Coast for the foreseeable future, so if you (or anyone) need a Gunks/Dacks partner, just drop me a line. I'm happy to show people around.

For two fat bolts, why make things complicated? Just two clove hitches in series and you're good to go. Speed is safety.

Thanks for the info Dane!

How much? If you prefer not to make it public, you can send me an e-mail. woahitsjb at gmail dot com

Just wondering.... is it just me, or did BD switch the front points on the Sabertooth from "pointy" points (like on the G12's) to a new, beveled front point that looks like a chisel? Any idea when/why this was done? Or am I misremembering completely... have the Sabertooths always had a chisel point? And then of course my followup question: Has anyone spent the time to comparing pointy vs chiseled frontpoints? I have a pair of SS Cyborg Pro's (and an older pair of Rambo IV's) for steep/hard ice... but for long moderate routes with pitches of snow (where I'll want horizontal points) but definitely ice to climbed as well, what type of frontpoints do you prefer? Hope I described my question clearly...

Green and yellow Aliens for me. Also, my Feathered Friends Rock Wren bag. It's delicious!

Just be aware that any surface-applied wax (I use Sno-Seal) will severely impair breathability.

Yup, eVent was discontinued in tents (by law) due to its abysmal fire retardancy. It goes up faster than a bucket of gasoline. Regarding the Tenshi, I would have bought it years ago if it was just a little longer. It looks absolutely fantastic in every respect, except 1. Both my partner and I are about 6'2" and the Tenshi is about 6' long. That means a soaked sleeping bag at the head and feet from condensation as the sleeping bag is smushed up against the walls, not to mention a lack of comfort and inability to sprawl. Just something to think about if you're a tall dude. If they had a version that was 6'6" (or ideally 7') I would buy it in a hearbeat.

More importantly, they're learning how to save their own butts if they go for the big ride. Self-rescue is the most important skill in the mountains!

I'm 99% sure I saw it in the Campmor (NJ) store this season so you might try their website. www.campmor.com But seriously, that thing costs something ridiculous like $40. Just make your own. It takes 8-10 minutes, seriously. http://xray.bmc.uu.se/markh//climbing/iceclip.html

Broke a BD Clipper a couple weeks ago. Had a tool hanging in it and it snagged on rappel and twisted - snapped the clipper instantly. Luckily I was able to get the tool back before descending any further. I went home and made two of the DIY "Simond" clippers that RHYANG linked to about 2 posts up and so far, I think they're great.

Those are damn snazzy looking. Meet BD's price and I'll be in for a pair.

I've heard bad things about hockey tape. Namely that it's absorptive, and therefore, likely to freeze up. CXycling bar tape would be a good idea, but it's pretty fragile - it's just thin cork. Definitely not up to being bashed around bulges, cauliflowers, etc. I've heard very good things about this tape though: http://www.duluthtrading.com/store/departments/tools-shop/quick-fixes-and-repair/96825.aspx Insulative, super tacky and grippy, waterproof, very strong and abrasion resistant. It's widely favored on my local ice board (NEice.com - the east coast equivalent of CC.com).

Great imagery!

Eddie Bauer is selling off a ton of outerwear, including the Peak XV parka that Dane loves so much. Happy consumerism! http://www.eddiebauer.com/EB/Men/Sale/Sale-Outerwear/index.cat

Great store... just picked up new Vipers and Cyborg Pro from them.

I have nothing against BD (I climb on their tools, crampons, screws, cams, and stoppers) but I think if everyone called up their local independent gear shops and asked them to price match BD, they would be happy to. BD already made a handsome profit selling the gear to the shop, might as well cut the local shop owners in on some of the fun. Especially as it probably wouldn't cost you a single extra dollar. I'm sure they'd be grateful for the business.

Those are some amazing looking huecos on the big slab - you could probably take a nap inside one.

I'll only believe it when Dane posts his review.

Who wants to go rock climbing?!!!??!!11one