Jon H

I've never tried the Exped, but I did try a Neo Air in the store once. I didn't find it comfortable at all after lying on it for a good 5-10 minutes. It seemed the same to me as a regular thermarest, so I just bought a cheap one instead of shelling out the big bucks for a Neo Air.

Oh, I'm not saying there's a problem. I just observed that the pommel on the X-monster is quite small compared to Cobras, Nomics, Quarks, etc so I was curious if anyone felt it was small enough to be a disadvantage on vertical ice in terms of less pinky support. Nothing happened. Still got 'em and I intend on keeping them. But I definitely want something a bit less radical for low angle ice (gullies on Mt. Washington, etc), alpine excursions, or as a spare pair to lend out, etc. I found a pretty good deal from a buddy of mine ($170ish for both) on a set of X-monsters and just want to do my homework before I have him ship them over to me. While I would prefer my 2nd pair to be Nomics (so the picks match my Ergos) or Cobras (best all around ice/alpine tool on the planet, IMO) they would both cost me waaaay more than double what these X-monsters would cost. And since I have a bunch of other expenses coming up anyway, I'm happy to save the cash. BTW, did you wind up getting those Nomics the other week?

Thanks for weighing in everyone. I've never had a chance to climb on the X-monsters before and the pinky hook looks a bit small for support, at least compared to the Cobra, Nomic, Quantum Techs, etc. Can anyone comment on the comfort and finger protection (against bashing) offered by the X-monsters?

Can the Grivel Horn be mounted on the X-Monster ice tool for additional hand/pinky support when leashless climbing? If so, does it require any dremeling or does it just mount right on?

I have a firstlight and I'm 6'2". Last year I spent 3 weeks in Chamonix with another CC.com regular who is at least 6' and we didn't find it terribly cramped. There certainly "could" have been more space, but even with bringin some gear inside, it was manageable to stay organized and not feel literally on top of each other - like in the Rab bivy tents. I also have a Sierra Designs Clip CD (non-freestanding ultralight 2 person backpacking tent) which feels absolutely claustrophobic compared to the Firstlight. [img:center]http://i.imgur.com/yeEV9l.jpg[/img] You said it yourself - you're looking for a bivy tent. A Trango is a totally different class. I reckon the Firstlight would be fine for you in terms of available space. However, the moisture issue is a different beast entirely...

Hey Dane, there's a pair for sale on the front page of MP - http://www.mountainproject.com/v/fs-quark-ergos-the-older-style/107462816

I met Jack this year in Chamonix. I had the distinct pleasure of drytooling up some crappy choss with him for a couple days at a crag whose name I can't even remember, but Jack's memory will stick with me forever. Jack had a smile on his face every moment I saw him and he had an endless love for the bacon burgers at Elevation. He was a storyteller, a guide, a climbing visionary, and a friend. You'll be missed buddy.

Moving to Australia, won't need these anymore. There goes my ice season. Shit. These are brand new, never swung, never been outside, never touched ice or rock. Absolutely, utterly brand new. Old style (all black). Shiny and pretty and climb sooooo smooth. $450 plus shipping or local pick up in Northern NJ. Will take pics for any serious buyers. Please don't ask for pics unless you're ready to send paypal.

Dane, I'm assuming your Ergos had the temporary epoxy fix done sometime last year by Petzl, and therefore they had to be replaced with a brand new set of tools. I'm about to send my Ergos in, but I never had them epoxied. I'm wondering whether they're going to give me a new pair, or they'll just find a way to machine the new steel insert into the aluminum heel of the used tools.

Wow. East side of Mt. Alexander is EXQUISITE, both as a photograph and as a mountain. Are there any routes up that face? It looks as blank and committing as anything I've ever seen.

I was extremely interested and already starting to craft my application letter in my head until I realized that the AAC is not covering our airfare. Based on the OP, it sounds like this was a contest where you would be footing the bill. Can you provide a little clarification why I would want to attend this event, rather than choose my own partner, set my own schedule, and choose my own objectives?

I love a happy ending

SOLD SOLD They are the new leashless style. They come with a pair of laser picks, the head wrench, and allen-keys for the Strike and Fang. Both are hammers. One of the hammers is dinged up from pounding a knifeblade. The picks on them are Lasers and were pulled out of the package new last season and have very minor filing. I would guess less than 20% of the first tooth has been filed. They are used but in pretty good shape. I have had the shafts wrapped for most of their lives with Scotch self sealing mastic. The mastic is in pretty poor shape after a season of NE ice plus 3 weeks in Chamonix, but underneath they only show minor wear. I am looking for $450, which is only 66% of retail, plus shipping and any paypal fees. No gift/personal payments. I recommend sending a check - they're free, but I'll take pretty much any payment method. I also have a BD Ice Box (case only, no screw wrap) that I can include for $25. I am the 2nd owner of these tools. The first owner attempted a new route on the north face of Mt Dickey and scratched up one of the shafts through the clear coat. I showed it to Kolin Powick at BD and he told me, if I remember correctly, "They're fine, stop being a pussy and go climb." I only mention this because I believe in full disclosure... it's really quite minor. They are 100% structurally sound and I trust them with my life. Topping out the Cosmic Arete (PD/PD+) on the Aiguille du Midi with the Cobras, 4 months ago: Following Positive Thinking (WI5) on Poke O Moonshine, Adirondacks: PICS: I also have spare picks for sale: Set of Lasers, B rated. $62 shipped Set of Alaska picks. Strong T rated pick, great for alpine climbs. Anvils cut off by Bill Belcourt of BD so they clear snow mushrooms easily. Minimal use, maybe 4 easy alpine routes. $62 shipped. Lasers on the left, Alaskas on the right. You can see there is a ton of steel left on both picks. I have not sharpened the Alaskas since my last climbing day, obviously, but I would be happy to sharpen them for the buyer to the same profile as seen on the Lasers, or any specific profile desired by the buyer. The buyer of the tools can have any of these sets of picks for $10 less per set.

Vipers, Sabertooths, Reverso, Mammut harness, and Red Ledge bibs have sold. Zag skis are probably sold pending funds.

Selling off my BD Cobras. They are the new leashless style. They come with a pair of laser picks, the head wrench, and allen-keys for the Strike and Fang. Both are hammers. One of the hammers is dinged up from pounding a knifeblade. The picks on them are Lasers and were pulled out of the package new last season and have very minor filing. I would guess less than 20% of the first tooth has been filed. They are used but in pretty good shape. I have had the shafts wrapped for most of their lives with Scotch self sealing mastic. The mastic is in pretty poor shape after a season of NE ice plus 3 weeks in Chamonix, but underneath they only show minor wear. I am looking for $450, which is only 66% of retail, plus shipping and any paypal fees. I am the 2nd owner of these tools. The first owner attempted a new route on the north face of Mt Dickey and scratched up one of the shafts through the clear coat. I showed it to Kolin Powick at BD and he told me, if I remember correctly, "They're fine, stop being a pussy and go climb." I only mention this because I believe in full disclosure... it's really quite minor. They are 100% structurally sound and I trust them with my life. Topping out after simul-soloing the Cosmic Arete (PD/PD+) on the Aiguille du Midi with the Cobras, 4 months ago: Following Positive Thinking (WI5) on Poke O Moonshine: I will take pics of the tools themselves for any serious buyer. I also have spare picks for sale: Set of Lasers, tip filed thin for cold/hard ice to minimize shattering: $62 shipped Set of Alaska picks. Strong T rated pick, great for alpine climbs. Anvils cut off by Bill Belcourt of BD so they clear snow mushrooms easily. Minimal use, maybe 4 easy alpine routes. $62 shipped. Set of rare Airmet picks in excellent shape. Exotic, hard wearing steel. Discontinued by BD in the late 90's because they were losing money on every sale. They are amazing on pure ice. If you don't touch rock, these probably don't need sharpening more than once or twice a season. $100 shipped. The buyer of the tools can have any of these sets of picks for $10 less per set.

Esprit Ropes of Canada makes a 6mm static line called the Alpine Escape Rope that is very popular for this exact purpose. Last time I looked it wasn't listed on their website, but if you called up they had no problem talking about it. Colin Haley, Mikey Schafer, and plenty of other hard alpine climbers use it. If you do a search for it here on CC, you'll find it discussed quite heavily.

You're absolutely right. Too many Euro names to keep track of. Like I said, my memory is hazy

TO CONTACT ME, PLEASE USE THE FOLLOWING E-MAIL ADDRESS. NO PM'S PLEASE! mrhutt - gmail - com Ice season is coming up and I have waaaay too much gear. Looking to unload a bunch of this stuff for GREAT deals, much of it approaching dirtbag prices. It won't last long. All items are payable by Paypal and will ship within 2 days of sale. If you're an east coaster, local pickup in Northern NJ (or possibly NYC) can be arranged, as well as meeting up in the Gunks. Pics coming soon. Prices do not include shipping, unless otherwise specified on the small stuff. Not really looking for any trades except perhaps some firearms/EDC stuff, which is my new hobby. E-mail for more info. Buy a couple items, get discounted or free shipping. Buy a large amount of stuff or a natural set (Say Ice tools, boots, and crampons) for a discount. HARDGOODS - Black Diamond Viper Ice axes - one pair. SOLD SOLD Purchased in ~2006, they are the older silver version. Both hammers. Laser picks, very minimal use and filing. Light use on the axes, just don't need them with Cobras and Ergos. Both axes have Fangs (pinky rests) installed. Also comes with a spare laser pick. I have a pair of like-new Lockdown Leashes I'll also include for an extra $10 if you want them. $265 for both axes + shipping. - 24" Omega Pacific Snow Picket, never used. $12 + shipping - BD Trail trekking poles, Very lightly used. Going to something with carbon. They are pictured with powder baskets, but you will receive normal baskets. Retail is $115 IIRC, I'll sell these for $80 + shipping - Black Diamond Sabertooth - Stainless version - SOLD SOLD Brand new, never used. Bought in March 2011 for a trip to Chamonix but never wound up taking them along. Brand, spanking new. $190 retail, I'll sell these for $130 + shipping - Petzl Reverso (original). Lightly used. SOLD SOLD $13 shipped. - Zag Purist Light, 161cm. Measurements are 115-79-105. Ultra-light approach skis. Brand new in the plastic. Never been mounted. These come with a 2 year warranty as well. $225 + shipping - G3 Alpinist skins, Not pictured. These are uncut, brand new in the box, sized to fit above skis. $89 shipped - Yellow Wired Bliss TCU, just had new sling and cables factory installed. $29 shipped - Motorola T6500R two-way radios. SOLD SOLD Nearly new. Needs new batteries though. Comes with all original packaging and everything. These have a small bit of writing on them in silver sharpie on the battery cover. $19 shipped SOFTGOODS - I will launder all garments prior to shipping!! - ArcTeryx Atom LT, Size L. No hood. Color is brown, or "Teak" according to ArcTeryx. The pic looks a little purple, but its actually a nice earth brown. It was very lightly used over the winter and almost exclusively worn to/from work. I only wore it for one day of climbing and it was under my shell (so no wear and tear) and only while belaying (so no sweaty climbing). It's in excellent shape... no abrasion, damage, tears, pilling, etc. Paid retail $180 for it over the winter, looking to get $115 including shipping. Marmot GoreTex XCR shell, Mens L, grey/blue, don't recall the name but it was their top of the line alpine shell (possibly "Alpinist"?) - no frills, only weighs 1lb, but with a great hood, pit zips, and fleece lined pockets and chin. About 3-4 years old, retails for $395. Has a 1" segment of seam tape coming loose above the right shoulder. If you're interested in the jacket, I'd be happy to mail it off to Marmot at my expense to have the tape re-glued and then shipped direct to you. $175 + shipping. Mountain Hardwear Alchemy Softshell - Mens L, blue/silver. In great shape, no real signs of wear. Awesome outer layer for brisk autumn climbs. $50 shipped Timberland synthetic insulated jacket Mens L but fits closer to an XL. It's nice, but just a cheap insulation piece for beating around camp, i wouldn't ask more than $15 for it. It's a beater jacket for chopping wood, or a true dirtbags lightweight Arcteryx Atom. Take it for $15 shipped. Columbia Ski Shells Used for a couple seasons. Size XL. I'm 6'2" and they fit me kind of steezy. A Large would have been better, but the baggy fit is good for picking up snowboarder chicks. These have microfleece insulation under the butt and zippered thigh vents. A little bit of dirt from late-season mud skiing. A couple small tears down by the ankles from ski edges. Nice, cost effective ski pant. $18 shipped Red Ledge 20K waterproof/breathable bibs with full side zip. SOLD SOLD Men's L. Black. Nice pair of inexpensive bibs, no idea on the model name. Got them in an online trade but they don't fit me. I have enormous quads from years of bike racing, they're a bit snug on me around the thighs. They should be fine for anyone with normal-people thighs. No damage of any sort. Maybe 2 days of wear on them. $49 shipped No name shell jacket - Bought this years ago. Never worn it once. Size XL. Has a stowable hood, a kangaroo pocket, and a 3/4 zip for ventilation. Probably not 100% waterproof. Yours for $30 shipped. - Mammut Focus Harness, size L. SOLD SOLD Lightly used. Fits waist size 33" and larger (up to about a 40-42). Got it from a friend who bought it for his first climbing trip but never climbed again. I used it for 6 months but I'm right on the cusp of a 33" waist and every time I drop a couple lbs, it gets too big. It's got 4 gear loops, drop seat, fairly compact, great for alpine/trad/sport/etc - a solid all around harness, just too big for me. $25 shipped. - Dakine Sequence photo pack - Used for maybe 10 outings. It has a couple scuffs but that's it. Great ski/snowboard pack with padded camera case as well. Carries skis on the diagonal. The ski loop was large enough to fit my fat pow skis with a 145mm tail. Carries a professional SLR body (1Ds Mark2) with a 70-200 attached, 24-70, 16-35, 3 pocket wizards and 3 flashes. It has a couple scuffs but is otherwise in excellent shape. No tears or rips or anything like that. I would trade this for a smaller photo shoulder bag. Retail is $160, I'm looking for $110 plus shipping. BOOTS - La Sportiva Nuptse Boots, size 45.5, very light use. They probably have 5-6 days of use on them. No damage, no crampon holes, etc. They come with aftermarket footbeds. Feel free to use them or toss them out and put in your own. I have a standard 11.5 foot on the Brannock Scale (metal thing in shoe stores), normal width, but substantial bone spurs sticking out to the sides behind each pinky toe, that push my foot width out quite a bit. "Adducted fifth metatarsals," if you know anything about feet. Some people call them a "sixth toe" I think. These boots are a tiny bit snug in the toebox for me, but perfect length. These would probably fit any normal width 11.5 foot just right or maybe a wide 11. These have kept my feet nice and warm standing around belaying in 5 degree temps and I normally get cold feet. If I was wearing Nepal Evos in those conditions I probably would have had numb toes for 2 weeks. $199 shipped. These are the boots Steve House used on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat... one the biggest, baddest alpine climbs ever done, period. - MadRock Alpinist, 11 .5, - Nearly new. Fit perfectly true to size, slightly higher volume boot. These boots are a great way to get into ice climbing at a minimal cost. The stock footbeds were TERRIBLE and had pressure points by the toe. I have Superfeet installed in mine OVER the stock footbeds and now they fit great. I will include the Superfeet for an additional $20. Otherwise I highly recommend you plan on getting your own. $89 + shipping

Back in March one of the guys at Snell told me that Simond products are now going to be sold under the Cassin (I think) name. I don't recall whether that referred to hardgoods, softgoods, or both. It's been a while so my memory is hazy.

Does anyone have a picture of this moat? I'm having trouble visualizing the specific hazard. I've never been on Baker.

PACK IS SOLD PENDING FUNDS Got too many packs, need to clear some closet space. Cilogear 30L worksack for sale. Color is red and black. Standard size. I'm pretty sure it's the current V5. Minor signs of use like scuff marks, but no damage, tears, rips, or anything like that. It certainly wasn't abused all. Never hauled, dragged, or climbed any chimneys. I had a local pack repair guy add a rope strap on top after purchasing it. It includes the lid, all straps, bungees, the foam, pad, etc... everything original. Retail is $150 + $10 (rope strap) + shipping. I'll sell it for $100 + $5 shipping. BTW - there's a slight seam separation on the velcro of the hanging "ninja pocket" but it's non structural and never bothered me enough to even send it back. If you want to save some money on shipping, I'm happy to drop ship it directly back to Cilogear and have it repaired on the way to you. [img:center]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/85/99/107178599_medium_dd1113.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/85/96/107178596_medium_820768.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://mountainproject.com/images/85/95/107178595_large_d7bf07.jpg[/img] Backpack in use - Modica-Noury SuperGoullotte. Mont Blanc De Tacul, Chamonix. TD+

I would not recommend "converting" your crampons to a wire bail. Either trade, or sell and then buy. If nothing else, the hole on the factory-made cramp-o-matics is not drilled. It is oblong and prevents the bail from popping out sideways when you torque your crampons. Drilling a round hole could be potentially disastrous. I'm there are other metallurgical concerns that I'm not even aware of as well.

That's Slammin the Salmon. Gunks 5.12's are no joke. I still haven't been able to figure out the crux move (lockoff on an undercling crimp with the right hand into a big cross move over with your left, on terrible feet), but I've managed to work through everything else without too much difficulty. I went up Birdland a couple months ago. Don't remember any welded nuts down low, but I live about an hr away so I'll go see if it's still hanging out

Haha trying to fund another day of parapenting off the Midi? Matt is a good guy, buy with confidence! Free bump!

I generally use an alpine cock ring as well. I have it tied on a 17' length of 6mm spectra cord. Light, versatile, and relatively cheap. Never leave home without it.