summitchaserCJB

Ya I figured.

Thanks. Lots of fun.

Nice!!!!

Trip: Mt Si Haystack - FA- Dull Pickels Date: 4/1/2010 Trip Report: 5.4/M 3-4. Hey check out my addition to SP. Probably a FA. http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=609840&confirm_post=12 Gear Notes: ice tools. Approach Notes: Take the interstate all the way to the top.

I think it's BS to talk shit about other people's TR's. So fuck all ya'll. JK- well sort of.

The Munter rappell is easier to remember than a carabiner brake, at least for me. And I use sports tape to turn a non-locker into a "locked" bail biner. Ghetto! Ghetto-but effective. (I'm gonna try that)

You know...argueing with Colin's success rate and his choice of gear is like pissing in the wind as far as I am concerned. I suspect Colin knows more about every decision he makes climbing and with gear than most climbers know about the most informed decision they make. Colin's presentation was for the Mountaineers. To his credit he didn't dumbie down what he had to say for the audience. Most everything he said wouldn't fly in any mountainering school or guided program. It doesn't have to. Using a 5mm tag line and 8mm 1/2 rope when required for his main rope for instance. Or cooking inside a tent with any stove let alone the Reactor. What obviously works for Colin and his partners may well get YOU or me killed in short order. The info I posted is for educational purposes only so you get a glimpse into what it takes to get up the kinds of climbs Colin, Mark and their partners get done year in and year out, year after year. While we might disagree with some of Colin's choices or decisions I understand (or think i do) the context under which he makes those choices. I agree with you. Hindsight is often 20/20. I don't want to be the naysayer because I've got a lot of respect for the hardcore guys out there. But guys like Dan Osman knew a lot about gear and rigging and all of that.

Thanks for the info. That central pillar sounds like a lot of fun. My brother wanted to do a one day trip but I talked him up to two.

After looking around I found Royal Arches, Snake Dike, and Central Pillar of Frenzy.

My brother and I are going to be down near Yosemite in May and we have two days tentatively free and want to tick off some classics. Some background. We are solid trad leaders, even though my bro has gotten a little soft since getting married. I can lead trad up to 5.10b or so. He could probably follow that as well if he had to. We are looking for multipitch and single pitch trad lines mainly. We'd prefer to summit something but we're trying to be realistic as well. Any ideas? PS- I've never climbed at Yosemite so I have no idea whats realistic/worthwhile.

Can you flesh that out a bit? What would you do on the DC where you obviously need an ax (or do you like falling thousands of feet?) but where you don't need a tool. Also, for me, as I am tall, leaning over an ice tool on moderate terrain is asinine. Maybe you just don't do snow slogs.

I climb mainly at Index and Leavenworth (both pretty bolt free). It seems we put up bolt stations where there are no alternatives or where you need to rap and don't want to leave gear. My 2 cents.

Like most of climbing this is up to debate but ice tools are usually for anything over, I donno, lets say 50-60 degrees or less if there is water ice. Anything less you can use a standard mountaineering ax. Using ice tools, or an ice tool on a glacier climb like the DC route on Rainier would get tiring. It also depends on your height a bit because taller people tend to like longer axes. And that is plunging the handle.

Oh nice. I need to get some. Where do you get yours?

Thats impressive layton. Aren't those expensive.

Nice send! Rock pro is better anyway.

I haven't finished reading but you didn't bring any ice screws. It is usually an ice route.(?)

pics?

That's amazing... I know. It didn't make me want to quit climbing but that really makes you think a little.

Ya +1 as well. I'm not sure where I heard that but ya.

http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/205062/hell-on-liberty-ridge.html

Did they hot box it?

It was just stated but I'll try again. Basically opposite and opposing biners limits the chance that the gates will be opened. Simple as that. We are talking about biners on any place where you'd usually use a locker.

In that specific case you are right. But the idea is that you want to minimize the chance of anything pushing the gates open (edge, branch, runner, whatever). If there is a clear and present threat such as an edge then I wouldn't make them opposing (facing different directions on the width axis). But otherwise opposite and opposing.

Well that sucks. Good luck on recovering.