summitchaserCJB

The gym just seems easier because you do it more. Not to be argumentative but I almost never go to the gym but I climb outside a ton (check my TR's- that is not even everything I've done so far this year.) -Not to toot my own horn either just filling you in. I've been to the gym once this year but have climbed outside at least 20 times so far. And most of those times were at Index so- I kinda know a little bit about that area and its rating system.

Looks like the top of Evergreen mountain. nope

V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this. V0-5.10- V1-5.10+ V2-5.11 V3-5.11+ V4-5.12- V5-5.12 V6-5.12+ V7-5.13- V8-5.13 V9-5.13+ V10-5.14a V11-5.14b V12-5.14c V13-5.14d V14-5.15a V15-5.15 I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves. Thats cool and all, but I like the ground-up approach. That makes no sense as a reply to what I just said!?!?! At all! I said that because it seems that you like to do one crux move of a route and then hang dog after it just so you can say you can climb that grade.

V4 means a couple (or even just one) 12- moves. Close to the ground with generally no 'headspace' involved. The system generally goes like this. V0-5.10- V1-5.10+ V2-5.11 V3-5.11+ V4-5.12- V5-5.12 V6-5.12+ V7-5.13- V8-5.13 V9-5.13+ V10-5.14a V11-5.14b V12-5.14c V13-5.14d V14-5.15a V15-5.15 I can boulder V10, there is no way I can send 5.14a yet. But I can generally pull the crux move of a 5.14a though if I dog up to it, then take after I do the moves. Thats cool and all, but I like the ground-up approach.

The song is Radio Silence by my friend Nick Weaver AKA NHW. His tracks are free online I believe.

That was my point. The problem is that the same grades are used inside/outside. I think the left side is much harder.

Sounds like it might have been for illustrative purposes. But still sounds dangerous.

Ya seriously, thats hard to swallow. While chockstones can be bomber, these don't look like it.

You guys have some legit set-ups. I've been brewing for a little while and it gets better every time. Gets a little pricey at times but it's worth it.

Ok. I think the V scale is kinda flawed personally. Especially with consideration to Index. There is no way the Arete v0 is 5.10. I see kids who can't do crap outside fly up v3-4. What does that tell you? That the system doesn't translate- like at all. Especially when you consider the sandbagging at Index. So, I gave that an Index 5.10b for what it's worth. But I still want to see what it is rated- if it is at all. And for reference and an example I can pretty much cruise V4's in a gym. Do you think I'm doing 5.12- at Index? Nope.

I was warming down on the "Arete" V0 route on that trailside boulder and took a look at my old project (not claiming a FA just to be clear). Basically follows the same holds but on the opposite side of the boulder so you are basically dangling your legs off the vertical face and scraping for foot holds. Starts by the two drilled holes. I figure it's at least V2 but I don't really boulder. Kinda like a 5.10b but I know that doesn't translate but it's Index after all. I looked at mountainproject, the Index guide, and rockclimbing.com and nothing. Anyone here ever climb it? What grade does it deserve do you think? Anyway here is a video just to clarify. The first route is "Arete" or as the Index guide calls it "Crystalline" 5.9+. The second is what I'm talking about. I'm mainly just trying to find out what grade it is so I can judge my typically inept bouldering skills. It definitely is harder than V0. [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-UT9IPLqYE

As far as I know. The sign indicating the closure is up at the TH. I also read something somewhere about it being a "voluntary" closure or some such. Is that like where the climbers themselves choose to not climb there? I wasn't clear on the language. FYI- "The current annual mandatory raptor closure at Midnight and Noontime Rocks followed an experimental voluntary closure. Unfortunately, the closure was violated when some climbers climbed directly through the nest site. The Forest Service then went to the current mandatory closure. This closure is usually lifted in mid-July, after the raptors are done nesting."

Wow. In Lake Wenatchee/ Cole's Corner it was storming around noon. Guess it missed the Icicle.

Sorry to hear that. Hopefully it is waterproof. Wasn't it raining Saturday?

To put this thread back in its rightful place...I went up there a couple days ago to do some roped soloing. The "new" bolt does appear to be new but is about 10 feet up and left of the step across. It's in a weird spot, above some hard looking face climbing. Anyway, thought someone might want to know.

Freaked me out.

Oh here we go.

Yep thats it.

Nice TR's Kayfire. Oh ya, you don't have any! Thats right! Try getting off the couch once. It will do you good.

Anyone know what the crag immediately above Icicle Buttress is? Is has a few 5.6-5.9 routes, one of which I soloed today after soloing R and D.

That pool-hammock contraption is brilliant.

I used to think that glacier glasses were all that works on glaciers or on mountains. Not true. Get a good pair of polarized glasses with a larger coverage and you'll be fine for anything relatively short.