The Cascade Kid

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs and Gerber Sink Date: 3/9/2013 Trip Report: Colin B invited me to attempt the Gerber Sink yesterday. When we arrived at Colchuck lake around 07:00, we watched John F and Daniel H bailing off the route. Conditions on the approach were great, but the mountain was largely free of ice and with little snow. We made a group attempt at the Triple Couloirs. The second couloir likewise has no ice. Not even a little bit. Collective memory said there was a mixed bypass, but even after colin scratched around for a while, we didn't find it. Looking at old photos, we were in the right place, with 0 snow where there's usually a ramp. Oh well. We bailed. Sunny day, good people. 13 hrs car to car. There were many cars at the trailhead, which was not surprising with the good forecast. On the other hand, we didn't see many people at the lake. A group of skiers/climbers from Bend, and some other more local friends. Where'd everyone go? [Photos, video, and subjective take at Mountain Lessons .] Below, the start of the first, most of the second, and the end of the third couloir divide the center of the face. The Gerber Sink connects snow runnels just right of center starting just to the right of the low point on the face. [img:center]http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8546522414_3361014293_b.jpg[/img] Gear Notes: Two tools, 1 rope, 1 nut, one bootied pin. Approach Notes: three with snowshoes, I without, no real problems with ether approach. Skis not recommended unless you're going skiing.

Most excellent [brew] Hope our beta photo got you off the sofa, but that's probably just coincidence. When you want a catch, call.

Trip: Mt Hood - Ski Circumnavigation Date: 2/15/2013 Trip Report: On the 15th of February under bluebird skies, E. Linck and I made a circumnavigation of Mt Hood on skis at roughly the 8000' level. Mr Linck knows a little something about volcalo circumnavigations as the current record holder for circumnavigating Mt Ranier's wonderland trail unsupported (running for 27 hrs? Please.) and I know a little bit about skiing and glaciers. It was a good team for the task. As previously reported, conditions were ideal for distance travel, if not for skiing. The turns were good on the Reid glacier, but the stiff surface made for quick travel. We made the circumnavigation (10.8 mi, ~7200') in 08:00:28. This is an amazing way to spend the day and see aspects of the mountain that you would never otherwise see. TR and Photographs Route Beta. This trip opened my eyes to the adventure that is available to us locally. So many people climb the South side of Hood and think that they've been there done that. The South side is a good place to learn some skills, but Hood would be a really boring mountain if that's all there was to it. This probably applies to our other local destinations. What else is being ignored? Get after it. Gear Notes: Skinny skis, nylon skins, wish we had ski crampons, which would have taken off more than 1 hr. Didn't rope for skiing on glaciers. Roped on the Ladd glacier when walking. Fast-walked through serac zones. Approach Notes: 1:35 to I-rock from the parking lot. Our approach was light and as fast as possible. Go slow to go fast.

the parking lot

Trip: Mt Hood - Reid/IRk, Sandy, Ladd, Eliot, North F., Blk Spider Date: 2/16/2013 Trip Report: Quick conditions report, TR pending. For route beta and TR go to: Mountain Lessons Here are conditions from yesterday, 2/15/13. On all aspects, snow conditions are firm and generally supportable, with more consolidation/ice on SW-W aspects. No real loose snow to speak of. Plenty of ice around in little nooks and crannies for those seeking adventure Southerly aspects grew sloppy in the sun below 8000' The North Side Routes appear to have a passable Bergschrund on the right March Madness is aerated and ugly looking. Don't know about the S. side, don't care. Yokum ridge looks sparse, as rime goes. Coopers spur has contiguous snow. The routes in the black spider environs have ice, but it looks a mite thin and sun-affected. The bluest, thickest ice is on the westerly aspects. I Rock North Face Reid Headwall, Leutholds, Some Yokum Sandy Headwall More Sandy Headwall Coe Headwall and Serac North Side and Eliot North Face Detail South Coopers Spur and Black Spider Environs BS Detail Drips South of Black Spider No excuses now that you've got the beta. Go do something. Gear Notes: ski crampons recommended. Approach Notes: 1:35 to Illumination saddle on firm, tractionable surface.

Split decision, V2, outside of Moab, UT.

Trying to find bottom and failing in the Wasatch Range, UT.

Following on unnamed water ice-- Ouray, CO.

Richie Brady, climbing at the Black and Tan Wall, a hidden limestone crag in Southwest Utah.

Alex Ragus, at the bivy perch on the North Ridge of Mt Stuart, Cascades Range, WA. Taking in another splitter day at sunrise.

Two climbers crossing the Stuart Glacier on route to the Upper North Ridge of Mt Stuart, Cascades Range, WA. Climbers: Joel Reid, Trever Waage.

Super solid. I am uniquely inspired, which is uncommon from TRs here. Well done, and be in touch when you get back. I owe ya

Trip: Mt Hood - Pearly Gates Left Date: 1/3/2013 Trip Report: Took a job up the Pearly Gates yesterday with a first-timer. I had been warned that snow conditions up high were "unconsolidated wallow-sugar". Though this was true is isolated locations, the route was overall in good condition. Up to the Hog's back, the snow surface was supportable sastrugi (on skis) which made for easy travel. The bergschrund is filled in and barely visible. We crossed the schrund on the hogsback and traversed over a rime bulge into the pearlies. The rightward option looked very chandeliered in that rime-ice kind of way so I opted for left. Some seriously western wallowing was required for 10-15' to reach the 12-15' of good 50 degree ice. The ice gradually turned over into easily booted snow to the summit. Descent down the old chute was spicy. For now, traversing further west than usual along the summit ridge will yield an easier descent than the steep rime stemming which was required on the usual chute. Above the hog'sback, the snow is 1-1.5' of unconsolidated snow which would be great skiing. Below, the snow is intermittently supportable wind board with some wind transported creaminess. See also a photo of current conditions on the Reid Glacier/Headwall/YR. Entering the Pearlies adjacent to the schrund Exiting the ice Top of Pearly Gates Left Traversing the Summit Ridge Reid Conditions Gear Notes: 7 mm cord, 1 screw, 1 picket. Placed a good screw and a shitty picket. Neither was necessary. Approach Notes: Skis. Fast and easy.

I like reading your posts, but since they seem to be solely about skiing, wouldn't they be better posted to turns all year or TGR?

petzl lynx. easily use both configurations and change the length of your points.

The full-blown season is so close it's tormenting.

11/22/12 - ZigZag Bowl and Environs - Thanksgiving 4-6" of consolidated powder on a supportable base. Underlying pack consists of rounds interspersed with minor crusts. Good riding on SE-SW aspects on sheltered terrain. Wind effect was widespread , especially on W'ly aspects. There was widespread evidence of prior loading due to West winds, though during the day the local winds were out of the East and were actively loading W'ly slopes near the ridgeline with thin, stubborn windboard. Sun came out around noon, warming surface snow and causing small point releases on the steepest E-facing terrain. The base is pretty well established with good coverage. Should be fun with more snow!

there ya go, your million dollar idea: bags woven of thin, conductive metal mesh to cage your electronics and prevent interference.

In winter, snow conditions are more meaningful to your safety. If you can't look at weather info, of which there is plenty, and decide whether or not it's a good day to be climbing, then you should wait for spring rather than let someone tell you. The S side route seems to turn off folks' decision making brains. You must cross slopes of greater than 30 degrees to summit, and you have to do so over a terrain trap. If this means something to you, and you're comfortable managing such hazards, then just brush up on your whiteout navigation and go for it. Climbing in winter is great because it actually feels like wilderness without so many people around. Also, you'll slog some more in softer snow, and it's a fair sight colder than it is in may. Best of luck. And maybe climb it with a friend the first time. Company is more fun when you're suffering.

Stories to be found here: Mountain Lessons -Your comments are always welcome- [img:center]http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4139/4755834093_287895e4b0_z.jpg[/img] With additional photographs here: Flickr - GoneMonk

I guess I've heard that people get all grumpy about that. Unless you're talking about the rock wall there... or you're trying to push some buttons :-)

The video seems to demonstrate with relative clarity that it will interfere with searching by generating a phantom signal with no consistent direction nor distance.

It's that pre-winter do-something-other-than-climb non-season, and I'm getting antsy. Does anyone know: Are there any known and accepted dry-tool/mixed crags either in the Columbia River Gorge or in the Mt Hood environs? If you have a less public location and would prefer a belay as an information trade, pm me.

Had I seen this, I'd gladly have been in. If it's not closely held information, where were you planning on going? P

Cliff notes from the video below: -A GoPro camera, when on, can interfere with avalanche beacons in search mode, causing false signal readings. This finding could possibly confuse and confound a search for a live burial. -The range of this interference is limited and varies by beacon model, however, it is sufficiently large that a helmet or chest mounted GoPro could interfere with the beacon of the person wearing that camera. -How the GoPro does or doesn't affect the transmit function is unknown. [video:youtube]