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YocumRidge
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Nice Ivan. Start them early on the north faces!
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Yeah, the one who seeks will always find.
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Trip: Baker - North Ridge
Date: 7/10/2011
Trip Report:
Ed Hobbick and I climbed the North Ridge on Baker car-to-car on Sunday 07/10/11, following my 6 hour drive from PDX. Here is an update on the conditions.
We started at the Heliothrope TH at 2.40 am and 3 hrs later we were crossing the upper Coleman gl towards the shrund. Continuous snow begun at 5500’, but snow pack was well consolidated making for easy travel.
The upper Coleman glacier is in very good shape right now and mostly filled in. I counted 2.5 crevasses (with fat frozen snowbridges) that is worth watching out for.
“45 F” promised by NOAA turned out to be a full on winter with all layers on.
On the approach, in July:
We accessed the North Ridge via the ramp on the left side of the main shrund through the couloir to the rock bands and then up weaving around a few crevasses to the base of the ridge.
The route we took:
Ed heading up the couloir:
Myself above the rock bands:
Good Omen:
The beast looms. Is that Palmers Lift Headwall Direct?
We climbed one of the lines 10 meters to the left of the Ice arête:
Ice was variable and took a lot of whacking and digging for placing solid screws.
Myself on the first ice pitch:
Ed topping out on the ridge:
Climbing along the ridge proved more difficult than what it first looked like and took way more digging and whacking of rotten ice, snow and snice due to sun exposure. On the top of the ridge, there is a 30’ crack/crevasse separating its western and eastern lobes - with tempting solid blue ice in its walls. I crawled in it to place a screw when both my feet blew. Thank god the tools held and I managed to chimney out back on and up to the ridge.
Myself on the second pitch along the ridge:
Ed approaching the Secret Passage:
Secret Passage. Whiteout is approaching and it begun snowing shortly after.
But what else do you expect in July, right?
The summit.
None of us was up the Coleman-Deming before, and being unsure of the descent, we waited, and waited and waited - for the snow to stop. Some 3 hrs later we finally made it down to the saddle, melted snow for water and headed down to the car.
Gear Notes:
6 screws
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Wow, Eric, so who is now "the epic magnet"?
And that last vid... how typical of you - "storm is coming in ... hahaha"
Props on making through it!
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First Female Ascent of the "Stone Soup"
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Are you back from the kalifornikan land, white boy?
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Thanks for the great report and trip Wayne!
A few pics/comments on my behalf.
The line:
Our camp a la Tarkovsky's Solaris final scene:
Rock avies hit the north side of Adams - the recurrent theme that follows me around since Rainier
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Wayne crossing the shrund:
Wayne below the purty Adams HW:
Wayne approaching WI2 step that we soloed:
Wayne soloing WI3+ pitch:
Healthy water ice was found and climbed. Only in Washington and in July
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Wayne before the rimey traverse. At one point we had only one hollow screw between us but I promised Wayne not to fall
Good times. I hurt even thinking about it and still do not know why we used the rope at all . 
Wayne's AI4 money pitch to the crater rim:
With the "good rime to pull up on" - here it comes Yocum Ridge!:
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Who wants to climb NR on Baker this coming weekend 07/09-10 weather permitting?
I prefer C2C, but will camp too if weather is decent. I have all gear and a car. Will be driving from PDX.
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what about the north side?
North side being a north side. As of yesterday 07/04/11, FR 2329 is mostly under snow, we parked 1 mile away from the intersection with FR5603 and hiked the rest 4 miles to get to the Killen Creek TH and 10 miles one way total to the high lake at 7505'. Snow is well consolidated though thus making cross-country travel a breeze but bring your GPS with as many waypoints as possible - the routefinding on the approach is not obvious.
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saw your video on the morning news, channel 2. the news folk think we are crazy.
Weird, we did not give permission to the channel 2 on the video release. Do you have the link, Gene, by chance?
Or the channel 2 is the Weather channel in Seattle (which we did give the permission to)?
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Yeah, the slide activity continued through Monday.
There is more on this in the Seattle Times: http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2015453613_rainier29m.html
Yes, we climbed a part of the N. Icefall next morning before the sun hit the cleaver - the only time window the slides subsided but oh man crossing that avy path was tough, cuz I really suck at sprint hurdling
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I appreciate everyone's input!
The stove with the now permanently integrated pot still works
, however the ignitor blew for good but thankfully a regular lighter does the job just as well. Will wait on upgrading it though.
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Likewise, Forrest!
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No way, Dru - the heat exchanger is built-in, the stove was sitting on snow all time, and the cook pot never completely dried out but the set up WAS tilted.
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Ok guys, I know it is weird but my titanium Jetboil stove annihilates itself.
This is what happened to it on Rainier - melted plastic holder, ignitor connection and grill (made of Ti I suppose):
Did anyone have this problem? Could it be due to the stove tilt while melting snow?
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Yeah, too much excitement to be had for sure.
Once the slides begun, the geologists could not even get to and retrieve the sensor set up on Nisqually in between Cowlitz and Nisqually cleavers.
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Ha, V, you should have totally come and brought more screws - ice was calling you!
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Nisqually Cleaver on Rainier has massively displaced itself when we climbed Nisqually Icefall and is out for the season.
[video:vimeo]25645698
My sorry tent suffering volcanic fallout:
Avy debris seen from N. Icefall:
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Check your PMs.
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My friend Nate is about to go do a ninja stealth climbing mission up the side of a building in downtown Portland under the cover of night.
Bouldering:
Taste of ice on Stuart in June. (Phil W on West ridge)
Humor:
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Will go aiding with Ivan in the rain at Beacon tomorrow and hoping he is not gonna blow his other ankle
Sunday is a possibility if it is not too wet.
John: do you wanna run up the North face on Hoodie C2C next week? Might be a good warm up for your upcoming voyage to Alaska
Joe: I will be available mid-week the last week of June. I'll PM you.
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Would love to go cragging this weekend in/around Portland or Smith. Or Teiton.
I am mostly interested in moderate trad, but am flexible.
Have a rack, ropes.
Please PM or e-mail.
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Scenic: Mount Hood
Alpine: OlegV on the north face of Mt. Borah
Ice: photo credit of Veronika (spionin)
Cragging: Chad at Bulo Point
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You cannot wish for a better partner
.Bribe him with gas money, food, beer to go climbing Rainier or whatever with.
Jon.
[TR] Mt Carl Heller - East Ridge 3/13/2011
in California
Posted
Mark: Solid winter "scramble"! Nice work
!
V: Huge thanks for the favor!