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YocumRidge
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Posts posted by YocumRidge
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As mentioned before, there's always AK47
But the bolts on it are bad?
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Yeah, that
http://www.alexandrebuisse.org/resources/trip-reports/The-fifteen-most-terrifying-seconds-of-my-life
http://sightly.net/peter/trips/norway2011/
does not look inspiring at all.
Glad you guys really lucked out with the conditions and weather.
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Another awesomeness!
Doug is lacking a fur-coat here for extra style points
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Wow. Thanks V for the great account of this amazing area!
Looking forward to the further "installments" of the trip.
How would you describe the ice conditions and norwegian grades?
The sewage "shit happens" route does not look remarkably phat.
To the mods: my vote for the #1 prize for the March TRs.
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"Eastern Sierra Ice" by Robert SP Parker.
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Remarkable forebearance in the hostel
Yep. Luckily we had a bag of potato chips and the loud crunching kind of helped. For a while
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Thanks for the stoke
! That looks like a Wicked Wanda
. Very cool! 
But yeah: I hear Canada is great this time of year.
Nice to see you survived the 3 min approaches with your helmet on
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Thanks Alex and arentz!
Yeah, we were considering Ghost climbs but in the current conditions having a second vehicle (preferably not a sports car
) in case of the emergency tow would be a way to go.Icefields Parkway. We poked around a few climbs over there:
Baw Falls - too much snow cover that would take lots of digging plus high avy danger on the approach:
Murchinsons falls were in good shape:
but we were running of daylight when by surprise we got there trying to locate some other falls. After all, none of us were in the area before.
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I like real mountains in the background. What are they?
That is a question to the said good canadians I suppose
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Does the one really exist?
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Trip: Canadian Rockies ice trip - classics and not-so-classics
Date: 2/20/2011
Trip Report:
Jesse M (jmace) and I headed to canadian rockies to hit some ice over the President's day weekend that I cunningly contrived to last one week!
Day 0. After a swift drive to the canadian border, I was successfully stopped and interrogated for an hour and half re: purpose of my ice climbing gear. Being in denial whether this is the norm, I somehow made it to the Drew G-spotter’s place in Chilliwhack to pick up Jesse.
A 9 hr straight shot on TRANS-CANADIA to Canmore and we are in the rockies.
God bless canadian highways for being friendly to the sports cars in winter, which is greatly appreciated:
Obligatory mountain glamour shots:
And more:
And more:
Although we really lucked out with high pressure system and decent (-30oC at times) temps, the avy conditions were not hmmm… the best, read - “EXTREME".
Weeping Wall (normally, minimal avy danger) was closed for 3 days in a row, followed by a successful heli rescue of the avy burial victims at the Bourgeau falls plus one slide dumped off the right side of Louise falls while we were racking up at the base.
One consistent pattern on the approaches was an extensive weak layer of granular facets:
Day 1.
Kananaskis area.
Left to right: Moonlight (110 m WI4), Snowline (100 m WI4) and 2 Low 4 Zero (90 m WI3R).
Jesse on P1 of Snowline:
I got on the P2 but after breaking off a coffee table-sized bulge, my sorry ass was lowered and Jesse re-lead it in a much better form:
Day 2.
Our plan was to get on A Bridge Too Far (300 m WI4+) behind Kidd Falls (75 m WI4) in Kananaskis,
Kidd falls:
but the avy conditions and chest deep postholing promised a good 4 hr approach. So, we bailed and went to the Grotto canyon desperately trying to climb something in the remaining daylight.
Me on Grotto Falls (55 m, WI3):
His (no touch down) and Hers (WI4-):
Jesse on Hers:
Day 3. The sketchiest avy conditions off the Icefields Parkway: two pits failed and two close calls on triggering of slabs on other aspects. -30oC outside and no beer (nearly a full case I brought from PDX had exploded in the car, what a life
).Some local cragging around Canmore in pm:
Day 4. Complete Louise Falls 110 m, right pillar (currently at WI4+)
Louise Falls from the lake:
Me on P1:
Admiring the crux:
Belay cave:
Jesse leading the crux pillar:
Day 5. Complete Professor Falls, 8 pitches, 280 m, WI4
We teamed up with Joe (sean_beanntan) and Heather from PDX for a full day on Professor falls. Ice was fat, the company was rad and all pitches were in. Awesome day!
Trophy Wall:
Professor falls from the approach:
P1:
Jesse on P2-P4:
Myself somewhere in the middle:
Joe on the last pitch:
Professors top-out:
The crew:
Thanks guys for the awesome trip
!Gear Notes:
rack
Approach Notes:
3000 GT
I-5 from B-ham to PDX was a ditch-endangered total suck at 20 mph. Thanks to V&D for letting me stay at their place in Seattle to recover mentally and physically.
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100% silk french lingerie never disappointed.
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May - early June would be your best bet for the dog route.
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No one is interested?
Ice is currently in good shape at both places.
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Yep, very truly yours Stephenson Warmlite. Its a newer, shorter version 2C, double wall (2R) with the internal wind stabilisers (funny "flaps"), reflective liner, no windows, standard door and standard triple vents.
So, I've just weighted it (tent and poles, no stakes) and it came down to 1048 gram (~ 2.3 lbs).
The tent survived the epic much better than us. First, got hammered by the ice avy off the headwall, then by spindrifts on the Coe gl drop offs, no probs. I was actually swept by wind gusts, fell, tumbled and broke one of the pole in my hand while we were taking the tent down. Still, the second day we pitched it again with the broken pole and hunkered down for another 16 hr - I was really dreading the idea of spending that time in a snow cave
The higher winds the less condensation or ice build-up in the tent. None was on this trip and its after cooking and melting snow for 1 gal H20 inside the tent.
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[video:vimeo]19589742
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There is nothing steep about the south side of Hood.
"steep" and "hard" are relative to your ability level. Just because you aren't comfortable doing something doesn't mean everyone else should feel the same way.
I could not resist....
Hood summit, 2008
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Looking for a partner to hit some ice either in Bannf or Hyalite for a few days within 02-13 to 02-22 (flexible).
I am mostly interested in swapping leads on moderate stuff.
Have a full rack, ropes, car.
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Awesome!
Now you are ready for some ice action, white boy
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But look at the bright side, your pics are some of the best I have seen!
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As of last week, Sweet Blue bomber ice on both for a change!
Those who are not comfortable with it, bail at the Crater Rock.
Pons needed at Silcox up.
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Looking for some current North Face information? Anyone know if its in? Just got tools for Christmas and I am itching to try them out!
Rock on!
The dragon cannot stand women so you should be fine with your new tools, just dont fall.
Some unfortunate souls (must be women too
) did fall in the right gully on Sunday but successfully bailed back across the Eliot around 10 am. If you (the souls) read this, we'd like to hear a word on what happened.
[TR] norway - rjukan - various 3/2/2011
in The rest of the US and International.
Posted
You are learning fast Doug!