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YocumRidge
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Posts posted by YocumRidge
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Price dropped to $80.
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I have gone around the hill a couple of times, but only to get back to Cloud Cap. Crossing the Newton Clark is pretty straight forward and both times (mid October and early July) I have done it crevasses were not an issue. In fact, both times were done sans rope, the first time actually solo. However, if coming round to get on to the Elliot one needs to ascend up the Spur and then turn around and lose it again.
Good to know there are no crevasses on the Newton Clark. I have not done the circumnavigation so I would not know
.Why however would you need to go around the Spur and drop down to the Eliot if you are heading up the left gully on the NF? The traverse from the Tie-in rock is very straightforward.
I do see the need to go around and down the Spur if one is to climb the right gully or Sunshine/Coe's for that matter.
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And here I thought it was because he's such a charming and erudite Renaissance Man...
Did you know Paul that Ivan submitted his application for the "Tsar of All Russia" position to the russian government?
Too many thiefs and crooks there, - just about time to start inviting vikings like in the past..
Greatest russian painters represent "Ivan the Terrible and His Son Ivan on November 16th, 1581", Oil on canvas, 1885. How charming is that?
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Here is the pic taken a couple of weeks earlier during our reckon of the shrund. Pretty much the same approach with a higher drop off down to the Eliot gl from Cooper Spur (at 7800') than the one marked with a cairn (at 6800').
The alternative approach is to start at the T-lodge and traverse across the Newton Clark gl (which can be crevassed) below the Black Spider wall to the Tie-In rock on Cooper Spur and from there to the left gully. It is less vert gain, may be faster and you dont need to shuttle the car if you are coming down the south side. I have not done it though.
On the upper part of the route, we veered off to the left more than needed trying to dodge the constant spindrifts coming down the upper Eliot.
Steve, it started dumping up there. Are you going to ski the North face? Be careful.
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That explains why she hangs w Ivan so much...Nastia loves the epic. She's an epicmonger...Yep, it is mutual...
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Very inviting indeed.
An interesting optical illusion that the North face looks almost vertical from this angle.
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Winds can be interesting up there this time of year. In our case, we had a forecast with 28 mph gusts at 9K which was about right but by the time we got to the summit ridge, the gusts were in 40-50 mph range and did not subside until we slogged down to Silcox hut. I am thankful we descended the south side, heading down the exposed Cooper Spur would have been a disaster.
Is the TJ cabin only locked up for O/N use? We were able to get in for 5 min at night, so it was open, but probably because a couple of guys (who got a pass from Reserve America I assume?) were sleeping in there.
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I did. And tried to fold it with pliers. No luck so far.
But BD Customer Service is nice, they have offered to send me a new one!
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The best way to avoid the ticket is to meet Ivan in Camas and drive to the park in his red devil that has Discovery pass.
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I have an 1 year old BD Express screw that never been fallen on or dropped, but the knob does not fold in any longer and always sticks out.
It will be sent to BD for exchange/(repair?) but I am curious how often people encounter this problem.
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When Pat comes to our asylum, it always means good times.
Just dont kill yourself with rocks.
I had to go and attend to my OCD - there is now ice in Oregon!
I hear Viagra is a new diamox for AMS?
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Oh, I was the pouty one, the pic just does not show it
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Still trying to figure out how you managed to break that Aztarex. Did you give it the Evil Eye?
It's the Hood that gives me the Evil Eye once in a while, especially in winter.
At one of the hanging change overs, the biner sliced through the drilled hole attachment point - a post-factory modification - and I almost lost my tool. But no complaints to Petzl. My own fault. It is weird however that it happened after 2 years of constant using and abusing that rig!
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Trip: Hood - North Face - Left Gull
Date: 12/19/2011
Trip Report:
My Rainier buddy Chase N - who magically re-appeared in the PNW from Moscow for his school break – and I climbed North Face on Hoodie on Monday 12/19. Looking forward to a full on alpine adventure, Chase delivered cramponed and tooled himself from Seattle to the T-lodge p-lot where I picked him up late Sunday pm. Having left his rig in the lot, we drove down to the Tilly Jane TH in my carriage (that successfully went into a progressive spin as it always does on the T-road) and would have ditched if not the snow banks.
We started at the Tilly Jane TH at 12.40 a.m. The trail to the A-frame is currently in fat AI 0 shape. Right off the bat, Chase set up a nice brisk pace on the awesome 7 mile approach to the base of the NF and by 5.30 a.m. we had settled by the “Crumble Cookie” moat to brew up and wait for the sun to rise.
First stop at the Tilly Jane A-frame:
Brewing up in the dark on the upper Eliot:
Lean and mean NF at the wee hour:
Looking down on the Cooper Spur at sunrise:
Alpenglow on the Snow Dome:
“Northern Lights” over the north side:
Crossing the main shrund on the right did not seem obvious to us, so we chose to try the left bypass to get to the entrance of the left gully.
Right side of the shrund:
Left bypass we took:
I went up and around the shrund, across the snow shelf through a few rock bands to the right (green line). Chest-deep wallowing in the sugary spin-drifted off the face snow and crumbly steep choss awaited ahead. At one point I felt the entire slope was going to slide down. Making very slow progress through this sketchy section, we turned back and headed around the prominent tower (red line) to eventually merge with the left gully higher up.
Luckily, Chase spotted a couple of ice flows to get up there. Slightly rotten and thin at the 9000’ start (I plugged a couple of stubbies and one Spectra ice piton), the ice quality was significantly improving as we gained elevation and so did our comfort level.
Simuling the lower sections:
Chase approaching the Cathedral Spire:
More alpine ice in the left gully just below (10100’) the rock band:
More water ice through the rock band (10400’) we simuled:
Getting closer to the summit ridge (10800’):
Finally, at sunset, being hit with spindrifts and suffocating wind gusts, we crawled over the summit cornice currently made of alpine ice. That’s right, at sunset. It is now at 4.30 p.m.
First Hood summit for Chase. A little pouty in the 50 mph wind gusts?
Not.
The premier alpine route of the PNW is still in the lean shape until the major snowfalls hit it and still providing with 2000 vertical feet of frontpointing on all possible types of ice and 100’ of snow climbing! Can it get any better than that?
Obviously, not for me – my tool's shaft snapped in the process, low on the face!
Does anyone have a Petzl Aztarex hammer and is willing to sell it to me?The south side descent was in the dark when everything looked the same: Wy'east exit, Devils Kitchen headwall exit, etc. Fighting with the winds, we crawled on all four along the skinny summit ridge to get to the Old Chute which produced solid alpine ice for a change. Got down to the Triangle Moraine where I had really slowed down, all the remaining food was well frozen and my feet hurting in the plastic boots. Thanks to Chase for patiently stopping and waiting for me.
Gear Notes:
5 screws, 3 screamers, 1 Spectra, 2 KBs, 2 pickets
Approach Notes:
Tilly Jane TH
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Dan, I specifically asked the Mountain shop in PDX who thermofitted/salved my Intuitions to mold the rolled tops of the liners and so they were able to re-heat those sections only and then flattened them with a hammer for 5 min straight on each. It seemed to solve the problem.
BTW, I tried the Rice/microwave method with no success. Rice got badly melted, the kitchen was stinking for a week, and it is a royal pain in the neck to stuff those rice packed socks in the small sized intuitions.
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I am selling my North Face Fission 20F sleeping bag, size Regular (to 6'), Primaloft Infinity insulation, weight 2 lbs 3 oz.
One of the lightest synthetic bags available.
It was used once so it is almost new, with no stains/tears.
$120 plus shipping (or local pick up in PDX).
MSRP $249.
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Scarpa Omega for me. One of the lightest doubles available.
Being fairly low bulk - thence significant weight reduction and more flex than other plastics - they are comfy on the long approaches/deproaches and sensitive on the technical terrain.
I wear wmn's US 7 and got them in the smallest available size - men's UK 6 and there is still a plenty of room for a thicker sock. The original insoles did not do much for me, - the green Superfeet is a way to go.
2011' Omegas have a new Thermo EVA liner that I dont have anything to comment on, but mine came with the Intuition liners. Due to my injured feet being shaped differently, I tried to bake and custom mold the Intuitions. A big mistake. The tongue and ankle cuffs tend to roll inwards at the recommended 175F and here are my ankles after 5400' elevation, 7 miles approach:
Professional boot fitter from now on!
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After the wind destroyed our tent, we were forced to dig in at illumination saddle.
I hear you on those winds, man. Dont believe NOAA when they say it is going to be 30 mph - we had a full on 60 on the north side and it took us awhile to pitch in our guy on screws and tools and that quickly turned into a half snow cave in the continuous spin drifts coming down the face at 9200'!
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Neh, but I knew mine pretty well.
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The Russian's friend, a woman, told me recently that all my art pieces look like penises.
Patricium, not the russian one, that was the italian american and besides you guys started it that night
And it got loud apparently!
The entire neighborhood is still not on speaking terms with me!
The Russian's FRIEND, Russian. What am I, a translator?
BTW, send me her email so I can see if she still wants that thing we talked about one time.
THAT does not suit you Pat. Brings to mind the x-sp.
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The Russian's friend, a woman, told me recently that all my art pieces look like penises.
Patricium, not the russian one, that was the italian american and besides you guys started it that night
And it got loud apparently!
The entire neighborhood is still not on speaking terms with me!
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Paul, well there are not many females on this forum to begin with...
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I'm headed up there this weekend anyway to do some scouting.
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I have done my scouting on that side for the season. Now it is time to climb it.
We will be bivying in the main shrund on Sat night - so come over for tea when you are done.
I am fairly sure it is the best room for rent on the entire Hood - free standing water ice pillars with overhanging roof:
And healthy water ice above:
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My nephew, Sasha 4 year old, soloing alpine ice of industrial origin in St.-Petersburg.
2012 goals and dreams?
in Rock Climbing Forum
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Yocum Ridge. Bill, are we on?