.jpg.40c348b15c9f900ce022401fa0dfd570.jpg)
YocumRidge
-
Posts
1230 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by YocumRidge
-
-
Yeah, we were looking for you in here:
but where were you?
-
Trip: Hyalite - Thanksgiving highlights
Date: 11/21/2011
Trip Report:
My friend Leesa G and I had a sweet, but short, trip to Hyalite last weekend. Having extensively climbed ice in the Canadian rockies, Leesa never been to Hyalite before, so she was stoked to hit some early season ice in Montucky. We loaded our gear in the Leesa’s honda-300K miles-super hero-wagon and left Portland on 11/19 Sat p.m.
Things were looking very promising during our drive in, with the I-90 being generously iced up and snowed over and the temps staying in single digits in Spokane onwards. Awesome - until we run out of gas somewhere past Missoula at 2 freaking a.m. and had to bivvy at the I-90 roadside for a few long hours in the gas-unfriendly state of Montucky while waiting for AAA to deliver one gallon just enough to get us back to Missoula. And then back again to Bozeman.
Anyhow, on Sun 11/20 afternoon we had successfully made it to the Hyalite’s reservoir and begun fighting the main fork road that has not been plowed for a few days (our car turned out to be the only passenger car in the p-lot), and finally arrived at the Genesis 1 at 3 p.m.
Hyalite:
Leesa in the main fork p-lot:
Finally at the base of Genesis 1:
Leading G1:
Both Leesa and I led G1 in the remaining daylight and we both agreed that it was kind of stiff for a warmup, and the long drive was not helping either. The ice was heterogeneous, 2 inch thick at places, and aggressively brittle as seen on our faces:
Next day we headed up back to the Genesis 1 and got on the Lower Green Sleeves:
Leesa coming up the Lower Green Sleeves:
We rapped down and continued left and up to Hangover and Genesis 2. Found some nice WI2 half-pitches en route to Hangover.
Leesa soloing WI2 approach:
Hangover was in very healthy shape for a full rope length and nicely visible from the p-lot. Leesa and I both led it.
Leesa on Hangover:
Myself on Hangover:
After Hangover, we traversed over to the base of the Genesis 2 - a 2 tier linkup route - which was also nicely in.
Dr. of Internal Medicine leading Genesis 2:
to Winter!We then went to check out the Amphitheater climbs.
Leesa really liked the right flow (a la Columbia River gorge):
Thin, slightly overhanging and drippy, it was shooting daggers at us and trying to kill, when we realized the temps in the canyon were in low 40s, so she downclimbed and we retreated back to the car. The new warming trend (high 50s in Bozeman for the rest of the week) was certainly not welcome and cut our trip short.
Was winter ever here?
Only in Montana! Some brave cossack hauling a year worth supply for the paleo diet: Odocoileus hemionus en crude - in what was suspiciously resembling Ivan’s old truck he was offering to sell to me
. 
Gear Notes:
2 ropes, 8 screws
Approach Notes:
Honda super-wagon
-
Nice, Ivan. That is SO you!
Didn't you know there is already ice out there?
-
No. I gave it away to friends.
-
Was this anchor in situ? It looks susupiciously like the tat I left 10 years ago.
Interesting to know, Dan, we have similar tastes in bailout choices.
I'll get a steel cable for Patrique next time.
-
Nice sendage on Abraxas!
I bet much more satisfying than soaking your ass on Hoodie in that tent of yours that does not leak. Although the reproduction of the NEB on J-burg did not work out according to the plan, we did excel at the successful self-rescue. Good times!
Ivan flying down into the abyss off this creation:
After the successful landing:
OryGun:
Patrique clearing out the bivy site on Languille Crags on Hood:
Patrique on the top of Anderson Rock:
Our Burfday Boy heading up to the Coe's Icefall:
-
Not sure why but I love the pile too...It is less ugly in winter/early spring though, with rime covering up the chossfest - a truly metamorphosed peak.
You should try the rimey North for a change when you get bored of choss.
Awesome pics, Matt!
-
The proper name should be "Nematoda plus".
-
Keep up the good fight and never give up, Dane!
-
Left at the base of Cruising or on the upper pitches of Young Warriors, possibly fell off the rack.
If someone finds it, please contact me.
Thanks in advance.
-
Likewise props to Arcteryx - in particular, the R280 harness.
No problems with weight load pressure, even while belaying Ivan's outstanding persona that weighs nearly twice as much as I.
-
Gawd no, - in the Patrique's carriage that he delivered from Seattle and transported Ivan and I - almost successfully - to the permit-zone-law-abiding undisclosed location on the FS 3512 where we were almost killed by dashing cossacks in the approaching 4x4.
-
Cool, and what a soundtrack!
Patrique, no mattress from the WWII hospital this time?
-
anasatia took the pix - she'll have to put one from her flicker up
For as long as you learn how to spell my name...Your russian writing skills are progressively degrading these days
-
The one that makes him lead harder pitches
-
fuck the s side - shoulda seen the ephemeral fantasies of the n side this stormy sunday morning
Thank god for the thermarests we were able to stay afloat in that flooded tent of yours
Steel and Fires above the Coe's Headwall:
-
Brings to mind of Greek gods and goddesses and how they sometimes turned people into trees.
Mushrooms? But of course - your acquired taste!
-
Oh well, another one got reincarnated!
IVAN on J-BURG:
-
Yep, Cody is being trained to rope gun my weak and shaky ass up the steep ice.
-
It is almost that time of the year again.
... North side rules:
New snow on Eliot at 6000':
New ice on Eliot at 7500':
Even the dog is stoked:
-
Kevin. Do you think this is Gorbachev in a turban?
I wouldn't mind shooting that finger off.
looks like my pop, w/ a serious tan I always knew that, Muhammed Abdul Ivan
-
For sale: brand new with tags and in packaging Black Diamond Xenos ice climbing harness, size Medium, 2011 series.
6 Ice clipper slots, 4 gear loops, adjustable leg loops, 12 kN-rated haul loop, lots of padding, 460 gram.
$95
-
-
I am selling the Grivel Alpine 45+10 pack, medium sized, 45 liters with extension to 55 liters. Used a couple times, in “like new” condition, no tears or stains.
$100 obo plus shipping or local pick up in Portland.
From Grivel:
“A small/medium rucksack, 45 L plus 10 L (extension), for alpinism and ski touring made with the new VX21 Carbon Composite fabric, the same used in sails technology. Composite materials are the 210 Cordura laminated in a five ply sandwich with Dacron X-Pac fabric used as the basic structure and reinforced with netting in Dacron, increasing the material’s mechanics without making it heavier. The dark netting, easily visible and touchable on the fabric, increases rip resistance even when subject to prolonged and heavy use. It also gives excellent structural stability not just to the fabric itself but to the whole rucksack resulting in a real progress in quality standards.
This fabric is 200 psi waterproof. Interior gear loops to distribute weight in the most stable position: towards the back. Internal pocket for hydration system and exit for tube.
Two quick snap ice tool attachments.
Side compression straps and ski slots. Large pockets on the hood. Fixed back panel with cross shaped furrows permitting air circulation.
Simple waist belt with two clever quick snap ice tool attachments that don’t interfere with the climbing harness. The waist belt can be easily removed”
Mt Hood
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
FS 3512 to the Cloud Cap Inn (north side access) is officially closed for the season due to significant snowfall at lower elevation.
So early this year!