YocumRidge

Dan Mcnerthney and I climbed the Stoddard buttress exactly 10 years ago in mid July and here is my few cents. 1. The approach from the Crescent creek basin to the base of Stoddard buttress IS long. It took us 9! hours which included climbing the snow/ice couloir plus dry rock to the col, 2 rappels into a moat, ice climbing out of the moat (steel crampons and boots were highly appreciated here), followed by traversing Mustard glacier on cl. 4 - low cl. 5 ledges and more ice climbing to get on to the buttress. 2. The climb itself to the true summit of Terror IS much longer and more complex than most descriptions make it sound. Simul climbing was feasible on the bottom half of the route but climbing becomes harder higher up.

You have probably seen this already (http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/stuart#approachexit), but getting to the Sherpa pass from the false summit of Stuie does not require climbing and downclimbing Sherpa, but rather traversing over some class 3 ledges on the south side of Sherpa. As DPS mentioned, we never found those ledges.... However, this cl. 3 south traversing option would not be legit if you are set to cover all the peaks of the Stuart traverse.

Good thing we did not kill each other by broken off holds. Oregonian towers is an acquired taste, do it once and never again. A note on the approach: do not follow the approach description saying "locate the tower and just hike up there" - or else you might never come back. The tower is surrounded by vertical cliffs overgrown with devils club. There is however a wooden plank arrow just off the Y-intersection where you park the car. Follow up hill in that direction until you hit the rock (loose cl. 4-5), take hard right and traverse over up to the base of the climb through the mix of rotten logs and loose scree where having an axe would be a good idea.

Has anyone been up there recently and know whether the water source near Bench camp (10 min hike north) is still there or is there any snow left around the camp? TIA Anastasia

Nice! Please, report back.

Anyone been to Banks Lake? Been cold there for a while..

Thanks!

Thanks guys! Highly appreciated.

Nah, not interested in Infinite bliss, but need water on Slesse

Anyone who climbed NEB via Crossover descent know what is the current situation with water sources or remaining snow? Worth bringing a stove?

Nice work. What is water situation on the approach and the route?

I was humbled, Dan. It was hard

NR of Stuie from west face of CBR this weekend 07/10/2017:

Looking for a motivated partner to climb NE buttress (first choice, condition-dependent) or the standard Fury glacier. Planning to approach via Axes creek and Luna cirque. Some time in July, I am flexible on timing. Ideally, I'd like to do a less committing objective first, alpine rock, etc. Anastasia

Juan, I am as liberal as they are bred. Ask Dan Smith. How about Rainier in a day on Monday? That should condition you all right. Anastasia