keenwesh

I’m not an expert, I’ve only climbed there one winter, but in February all the major ice routes were dry, and those in the know said that the big lines don’t typically form until later in the season. Don’t trust me 100%, but I would guess there’s not much ice up high in December. That February trip I ended up climbing the Frendo spur, which was awesome. We climbed other shorter mixed routes off the valley Blanche, but yeah super couloir was dry, Les droites was dry, it was all dry.

What’s the best way to donate?

I’ve done Olympus in a day twice, one hiking the whole thing in 17-18 hours, and a run somewhere around 12.30. I haven’t heard of any women doing it, so I’m happy to agree that Monica is the current female time bandit for the route. It’s an excellent day route, totally doable but those last 5+ miles are always going to hurt. Super psyched to read this!

Just a question for the older crowd on here, have there always been suckers for dumb conspiracy theories? Was it this way back in the Reagan days? Is it a byproduct of tucker Carlson acolytes? Why is America full of so many easily duped dopes?

PS, you think you were banned from nwhikers for getting political, or was it for spreading falsehoods and misinformation?

https://www.thisamericanlife.org/727/boulder-v-hill/act-two-11 I spent nine months holding up an iPad in front of someone’s parent, sibling, loved one, as they gasped for breath and died alone. I eventually left that job because I just couldn’t take it anymore and didn’t want to become even more callous to death. Btw, the anti vax covid deniers are just as scared as everyone else as they get intubated. The vaccines are not being rushed, or having safety checks skipped over. It’s a spike protein, which has the potential to cause anaphylaxis in a very small percentage of people, and is why they have vaccinated individuals wait for 15 minutes in an area with medical personnel before leaving to resume their lives. Listen to that segment if your interested, the individuals who created this vaccine are just people like anyone else. They care about doing their job, they care about other people, they care about ensuring safety and following the protocols and proving that something is safe before it is put into a product. Respectfully, go fuck yourself for sharing and believing this garbage.

No help for a specific answer to your question, but I think it can come down to quantity being greater than quality. I’ve lost count of the days I’ve expected terrible conditions and found great snow. Keep expectations low, go out there, poke around, see for yourself. With any luck you’ll find yourself ripping skins next to a caldera, with a wide open field of untouched fluff below you. lovely soft stuff days after the last real snowfall on the east side.

Thanks for the hard work! It is a magical place. I do feel a little bummed about the added bolts, that was the most memorable aspect of online for me. I hope the run out on American pie was preserved?

All will be forgiven once it arrives and you begin living with the suunto boost, a bonus 20% vert (sometimes 200%!) on your runs!

Aluminum crampons and Trangos would be perfect, the traverse itself could and has been done in running shoes. Tent wise you want something that keeps the bugs out, most camps are quite delux. As far as choice of sleeping bag, whatever works. Check the weather obviously but I just line my stuffsack with a garbage bag and do my best to keep things dry. you shouldn’t have to melt snow at any of the normal camps. I heard about the fire at the southern end. I wonder how that’ll change the final bit of trail...

Love your positive outlook and glad things ended up as well as they did. Aside from the hospital exit what a great looking trip. Next time the bushwhack will be that much sweeter!

I used to be tough. Exactly what I needed to know. We’ll be bringing the mesh!

Going to do the PT in early August and wondering if I can get away without a full tent. Planning on staying at ying yang and cub lakes for what it’s worth. thanks!

The pulse of really doesn’t tell you much about how acclimated you are unless you have a wealth of personal knowledge of how you’ve satted at a given altitude and how you’ve subsequently felt. there’s no hard and fast rule, and you can feel and be fine in the low 70s at 10k ft while someone else might be in the high 70s and feel like their brain is being smashed with a hammer. as an anecdote I satted in the high 60s at 14 after going to 20k. I felt fine. The other guys I was with were all around the same reading. They all felt fine, no one had ams symptoms. Listening to your body will likely tell you more than a little pulse ox, unless you’re unconscious and someone else finds you lying there with it on your finger and it’s reading in the 30s, at which point there are more pressing issues... edit: cool trip! Sweet to see what that mountain looks like up close!

Here are some pics from an attempt in 2016. terrain typical of the first half of the route leading up to the aid pitch aid pitch runout chimney pitch