TRbetaFlash

How could I ever doubt Jason would get bent out of shape shivering up on that rock? I can't. Because when my buddy and I showed up at camp, him and Donn were hanging out and he had the biggest shit eating grin I've ever seen from someone who had to march all the way around that place. Way to stay positive and way to keep a cool head through all of that! This is frickin' brilliant, as far as rescues go. Nice TR. I was waiting to see where you rapped on the S face. It looks like you found a slightly different 4 raps down that than we did. Good to know. Hey in that pic from Friday night, how long was that exposure. It's great.

This just makes me proud to be surrounded by such a brilliant group of climbers. From the injured to the rescuers, you all had your shit together and it shows. Nice work. I feel better now.

Man, the hike in there is so IN right now...you can *run* across the snow without crampons. I'd head out there for another go at it if I could just get the hell out of work. Is there a retreat (like a route he could rap) from the ledge he's on? It sounds like he's going to do OK though. Keep at it, man!

wow. When the North Ridge just isn't good enough, you have to take it up a couple notches!? Nice work! All hail the Worther's.

Holy shit. So my buddy and I ran into Steph and three other guys at camp in Terror Basin, all planning on going over to Terror. We saw them Friday night at camp and watched them tag Degenhardt Saturday while we were on Inspiration. There was an older real nice guy smoking cigars and a younger guy at camp and then Steph and a friend rolled in a little later. I forgot everyone's names but they were all real nice. They mentioned they were planning on crossing the barrier and tagging terror later. They asked about the weather and I told them what I knew. All I knew at the time was that a low was coming in late Monday night and that it was probably going to bring wind/precip. They seemed pretty well equipped, but when I came home Monday and looked at the NOAA pinpoint for that area, I just about shit my pants. Chance of snow, 30 degrees at night, 40 something in the daytime. I feel like I gave them bad weather information or something. I really hope all is OK. They are all really nice people.

If you're yelling TAKE! - You're on a route or section above your head or - you have a belayer who can't tell how much slack there is in the line. There could be drag or other things preventing the line from moving too. They could be asleep, who knows. All this can be mitigated by having a person who is actually paying attention to you climbing. I heard Fred Beckey yell, "Up Rope!" and if you ask me, I'll do whatever that guy says. I know what he means.

Trip: Inspiration Peak - East Ridge Date: 7/3/2009 Trip Report: Inspiration Peak, East Ridge, Grade *hard*, 5.9 July 3-5, 2009 This was pretty much my favorite alpine adventure to date, taking the top spot from the full n. ridge of stuart. We had great weather and worked pretty well as a team to get through the crazy approach and uncertainties of the ascent/descent. The trail is relentless and long, but doable if you give it the better part of a day. Two other parties starting up alongside us were shut down in some way or another by the approach. The decision to bring a couple 60m ropes was a good one. We were really stoked to have them on the raps. We also decided to take all our gear in one pack for the follower. This worked out in our favor because there are only a couple pitches of Business Time and the rest is easier ground. I've already written a detailed TR elsewhere, but I wanted to add to the useful beta we found here on CC. I can't explain how much you guys helped out, so here you go. There's plenty 'o Picket Range P0rn on the TR. Inspiration Peak - East Ridge TR Thanks to Steph and friends for hooking us up with last minute beta on the descent and a lighter for the guys with the NINE ESSENTIALS! We are such n00bs.. Gear Notes: 2 60m ropes (can be done with a single 60 but the rap stations look manky.) 1 light set of stoppers single cams from fingers to #3 with another #2 and #3 for the wider stuff lots of tied doubles Approach Notes: approach – The trailhead starts right in a campsite at a huge boulder. The trail itself is pretty simple to follow, with a couple sections of modest ’schwack-tacular issues. At the Goodell campsite, the *near vertical* trail starts up to the right. There is no cairn/arrow/tape here. After thousands of feet of vertical death marching, there are trails across the heather benches at ~5200 feet. Cairns are here and there. The benches are similar to the Boston Basin trails. Camp is up and over a small pass. There is water/snow at camp in the first week of July, but I’m not sure how long that will last. ascent – takes about 2-3 hours to get from camp to the base of the route. Simul-climb tied in 30M apart to the ridge. That part is CHOSSY, so watch out. The nelson guide and other beta detail the climb very well. descent – The gully at the bottom of the West Ridge is a shooting gallery. Instead, try 3 double rope raps down the West ridge, then four more down the south face to the glacier. There is significant rockfall danger at the base of the South face, so run away fast. We witnessed a monstrous icefall/rockfall in the West Ridge gully which most people rap down. It looked nastier and more active than the crap falling off the South. de-proach – two hours or so to camp, 5-7 hours down. The trail is WAY easier to find on the way down. I have a GPS track of the whole approach if anyone needs it.

I love that view from the underside of the roof. It's like the Mt. Stuart Show. Someone told me a long time back that spandex was a privilege and not a right. I probably shouldn't be talking though, I aided the .12 part. Nice TR, I need to get back up there. It's good stuff surrounded by slide alder hell and offwidth chimney shenanigans. Nothing's free these days..

eff yes. I need to finally get up there and give this a whirl. You make it sound like quite a party, which I'm sure it is. Good beta on the rope drag stuff too.

We usually don't fly people out of Erie when they get worked. They are usually carried out because it's quicker. This is very strange. There are some places up there that are pretty hard to get to though..

Nice TR, I love that route. That last pic is EPIC too. Is there a register anywhere up there? I'd be willing to drag one up there just because they're so fun.

I vowed never to climb that choss-tacular kitty litter fest ever again. I live a life menaced by the fact that the North Ridge is so badass, yet it almost requires a descent of this route. My favorite part (not really) is staring back at long's pass and those dinky steep switchbacks. I must admit though, you decided to climb a hell of a mountain for that view. It's awesome!

This really sucks. I was flipping through the articles in the PI and found this and couldn't fuckin believe it. I thought he might have other injuries but I am STOKED they got him off there and he's in good hands now. Props to the SAR team that executed this rescue. Knowing him, he's pretty damn strong and he will likely bounce right back from this. We will be at stoner g's bouldering in no time. All the best to Kris. I know he's getting married soon and hopefully this doesn't mess up their plans =/

Horsethief is kinda limited from what I've seen there. No multipitch fun either. If you're in Portland, just head to smiff and jump in on the regular gang-bang of the cinnamon slab area. You don't even need to bring chalk. There's plenty on the route already.

We didn't bring bikes a couple weeks ago when we headed up there and we were regretting it on the way back when a couple guys wizzed past us. seriously though, a cheap huffy is about 10 bucks at value village. pump the tires up and go for it. you don't even have to lock that piece of crap up!

You have to remember that when you talk about (what J. Long would call) a web-o-lette, you're really just trying to get some redundancy in your system without bringing more crap along. Quit looking at the fancy names and just think about the basic concept. oh - I have one bomb piece and a lame one? equalize them with the stuff you have. If that's not going to work, take a step to the right and look at the cracks there. Everyone commenting so far has hit on the big useful points already. bring a couple tied runners, a big long cordalette and perhaps a bail biener you scored off another climb and you're usually more than set.

Has that fixed #4 lasted into yet another season on the wide second pitch of the gendarme? I love that fuckin' thing. I'm guessing the chosscadian is now more choss than skiable terrain, no? It's pretty hot so that snow shouldn't last long. nice job.

That might not even be the biggest of all problems. If the blown-down trees are even close to as bad as last year, you'd better bring a chainsaw for the walk up Heliotrope!

I'd also like to mention that the proceeds from charging a few bucks are *far* below what is needed to maintain the facility. It's the exact same concept as paying $1.75 on the bus in the city. That money doesn't buy the busses and all the things with it; Our tax dollars buy it. There is a certain human cognitive bias you hit when you charge for something, as opposed to making it free. Even if the amount is negligible, many people disagree with it.

Rocky, the hollow gets abused by the redneck bastards with their cheap beer and three-wolf t-shirts WAY more than somewhere you'd pay a couple bucks. My firend has pics to prove it. Executive summary: We woke up in the morning with a leaking car battery riddled with bullet holes lying feet from our bivy sacks. How/when it got there doesn't matter. What matters most is that a few bucks keeps out the assholes.

Wait, here's the information I saw. It looks like damage to a section of the road. Pretty standard, no? Glacier Creek Road (FS Road 39) CLOSED. Storm damage that washed out Glacier Creek Road has closed access for snowmobilers and hikers. The road is closed at the Thompson Creek Bridge crossing, eliminating access to the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead and the Mt. Baker Vista Viewpoint. Engineers estimate the road will not be open until October or November. source: http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/index.shtml#glaciercrkrd more info on roads/conditions http://www.fs.fed.us/r6/mbs/conditions/mt-baker-climbing-notes.shtml ...or was there another reason they closed it (or will take that long?)

Man, I wouldn't mind giving Megatherion a shot on WW1. That climb is epic fun and there are a bunch of routes up there like it.

The one thing I learned from a situation like this is that if you are suffering through something, you have a better chance of getting through it if you think of something good happening in the future. It means if you have to cut off your hand, you just sit there and think of all the cool things you will be able to do with your new hook after you're done. When I'm suffering on some deathmarch in the middle of the woods, I just think about chilling out in town with my buddies.

This is terrible news for their family and friends...I feel so bad when this happens to climbers or anyone for that matter. You can bet that the 2009 "accidents" book will have the full rundown of this incident. Hopefully we can hear more about it soon and learn from it. As bad as it sounds, it's still very important to observe and learn from the situation. We spend so much time worrying about all our systems and safety gear, yet we spend so much time just one misstep away from falling for the last time. It's nuts.

Righteous! I got the opportunity to climb this route for the first time this summer. I can't believe the weather window we got the last few weeks! Way to get out and fire it, what a good time that gendarme must have been!