King Beatard

Hey bill, don't forget that was on gear with a bowline on a coil.

1.Jim put up the climb 2.He is EXTREMELY passionate about it being the way it is. 3.He put a lot of thought into things being the way they are. 4.Our agreement with those reasons is inconsequential. 5.Accept that you have no right to fuck with Jim's climb. 6.If you must tinker with something, go put up your own classic.

I am suprised at how much attention a gear found post has attracted. I think the moderators might need to upgrade me from a noob for this... ... ... Actually, on second thought it's good to be unworthy of greater e-status.

You were there Bill. I figure it must have gotten placed as a directional and then unclipped and forgotten as the belay stance is over a few feet - I'd fire my second if they thought that was any way to clean though. Maybe somebody rapped and didn't trust that beautiful webbing and so sacrificed a draw to ease their mind? Whatever it is, I'll take the story and Karma over the booty. I have much to make up for after Dave and Kenny returned my gear from my SE corner epic last January.

Beautiful Climb! Makes me feel like a squishy poon though. Damn you fast food!!!

Found it 8/31, Describe it and it's yours. Can meet in Portland area to get it back to you.

My understanding is these birds were planted on Beacon Rock as some sort of rehab project long after climbing had been taking place. Anyone care to explain in greater detail about this project? I hate being injured, reading this site pales in comparison to actual climbing. Many laughs though.

6 tugs = I dropped the poop tube

When a follower is cleaning and has stopped for longer than the usual few seconds to pull a piece, I find it helpful for them to give two quick tugs to let me know they have resumed climbing. Especially if a piece was stuck or they stopped for a picture, safety break, etc... The first time I encountered this was with Opdycke and although we didn't talk about it, I knew exactly what he wanted without question.

That ledge looks familiar...

Yes it's true, that's me. But I was superimposed, I swear!

Those are pretty damn huge but I've seen some fat ladies in the midwest that could give those bobbers a run for their money. I guess the record books disqualify fat ladies from the large breast competition?

I'm trying to. 8D

Is that the spot right at the hogsback where you just pull off the highway and hike up the slope on the North side to some bouldering? Haven't been there in years but it looks very familiar.

I guess even kitties get the munchies

I was thinking I'd get one last day in at Beacon on Saturday, but after seeing this new line I'm going to go to Broughton instead. Are their any more experienced climbers out their that would be willing to help me select my rack? Beacon will be open again in July anyway.

I'll work on finding some better views. She also has a special trick that I've been trying to get on video but shes a little shy about it. I won't explain it but I will tell you that she is too fat to lick her butt, so she developed a little "technique" - very entertaining!

I had to start using a water bottle to keep my cat from drinking my water around the house. This cat is every bit of 20 pounds

Funny you say that as I used to scoff at PBR but now I really like it. I quit drinking any beer for over a year and now I treat myself to a PBR after climbing sometimes. A lot less calories than a good micro brew. I'm going to swing by FS today and give your stuff to Bill. He said he can get it back to you. Glad I was able to get it for you. Don't work to hard. Got the gear back from Bill. Thanks Dave, Bill, Kenny, Joseph, and the group ahead of Dave and Kenny that didn't touch the gear. As we speak my re-racked gear is telling the tale to all my other gear and getting them stoked for next Saturday. Dave, let me know when you're in Portland and we'll have to go for a beer. Otherwise I should be at Beacon on Saturday for the end of the season and I'd guess you'll probably be there too. This time I'm not working Saturday unless it's at gunpoint. Speaking of Saturday, does the local Beacon community ever do a last day BBQ or anything - might be fun and after all the favors I've called in this week I think I might be the one to provide the grub. If anyone thinks that would be fun.

Good to know Dave, it would be sad to get PBR for being a good dude when you drink hardman beer. Sadly their will be no climbing for me tomorrow as hooky ended up being a pipe-dream.

Dave, If it's dry, I'm hoping to play hooky from work Saturday to finish cleaning some routes and do FA's at Far Side. If so I can swing by your house or meet you somewhere that is convenient for you. They don't sell beer at FS so you'll have to tell me what you like or suffer though my random choice. Thanks again for grabbing my stuff for me.

Many thanks to Dave and Kenny for saving my nuts...and slings and biners. May the gear Saints smile upon you all the climbs of your life. Not to mention turning down a reward - you rock. Also major props to whoever was climbing ahead of them - they left my gear as well! Reminds me of that song: "All I wanna do is to thank you, Even though I don't know who you are, You who let let me change lanes, While I was driving in my car." If you don't know that song you're missing out - it has been making me smile for years. Anyway I guess my happiness goes beyond some aluminum and nylon (as expensive as the stuff is) - I think Beacon is special and I'm glad to be a part of that. I've never known any other place where people would pass up booty or retrieve it for a total stranger - and ask for nothing. Maybe its the Northwest mentality or something totally different, but it makes me feel like I'm part of something much bigger than myself or some hobby. Thanks guys

Sounds great, maybe you can walk me through some better decisions that could have been made at a few critical times. Bill already filled me in of some of that. ie don't untie and free solo down something you can't climb up - prussik up and join the group. Which would save the danger, uncertainty and the gear.

Joseph, thanks for the encouragement and info. I'll have to tell you the whole story sometime, quite entertaining.

Sunday 1/18 two friends and I had to rappel from the tree ledge above the slab pitch of the SE corner. As dark was approaching quickly we had to leave a sling and a biner around the tree as well as the gear that was placed around the corner from our rappel line - Two wild country rocks with slings and biners, and a sling clipped to the Leeper Z. All gear is marked with green paint and is greatly missed. I would gladly trade it for drinks and the story complete with impromptu free solo, hypothermia, rescue on a munter hitch without prusik backup (had no slings left and was unprepared), stuck rappel ropes that had to be ascended with prusiks and freed.