King Beatard

I was thinking I'd get one last day in at Beacon on Saturday, but after seeing this new line I'm going to go to Broughton instead. Are their any more experienced climbers out their that would be willing to help me select my rack? Beacon will be open again in July anyway.

I'll work on finding some better views. She also has a special trick that I've been trying to get on video but shes a little shy about it. I won't explain it but I will tell you that she is too fat to lick her butt, so she developed a little "technique" - very entertaining!

I had to start using a water bottle to keep my cat from drinking my water around the house. This cat is every bit of 20 pounds

Funny you say that as I used to scoff at PBR but now I really like it. I quit drinking any beer for over a year and now I treat myself to a PBR after climbing sometimes. A lot less calories than a good micro brew. I'm going to swing by FS today and give your stuff to Bill. He said he can get it back to you. Glad I was able to get it for you. Don't work to hard. Got the gear back from Bill. Thanks Dave, Bill, Kenny, Joseph, and the group ahead of Dave and Kenny that didn't touch the gear. As we speak my re-racked gear is telling the tale to all my other gear and getting them stoked for next Saturday. Dave, let me know when you're in Portland and we'll have to go for a beer. Otherwise I should be at Beacon on Saturday for the end of the season and I'd guess you'll probably be there too. This time I'm not working Saturday unless it's at gunpoint. Speaking of Saturday, does the local Beacon community ever do a last day BBQ or anything - might be fun and after all the favors I've called in this week I think I might be the one to provide the grub. If anyone thinks that would be fun.

Good to know Dave, it would be sad to get PBR for being a good dude when you drink hardman beer. Sadly their will be no climbing for me tomorrow as hooky ended up being a pipe-dream.

Dave, If it's dry, I'm hoping to play hooky from work Saturday to finish cleaning some routes and do FA's at Far Side. If so I can swing by your house or meet you somewhere that is convenient for you. They don't sell beer at FS so you'll have to tell me what you like or suffer though my random choice. Thanks again for grabbing my stuff for me.

Many thanks to Dave and Kenny for saving my nuts...and slings and biners. May the gear Saints smile upon you all the climbs of your life. Not to mention turning down a reward - you rock. Also major props to whoever was climbing ahead of them - they left my gear as well! Reminds me of that song: "All I wanna do is to thank you, Even though I don't know who you are, You who let let me change lanes, While I was driving in my car." If you don't know that song you're missing out - it has been making me smile for years. Anyway I guess my happiness goes beyond some aluminum and nylon (as expensive as the stuff is) - I think Beacon is special and I'm glad to be a part of that. I've never known any other place where people would pass up booty or retrieve it for a total stranger - and ask for nothing. Maybe its the Northwest mentality or something totally different, but it makes me feel like I'm part of something much bigger than myself or some hobby. Thanks guys

Sounds great, maybe you can walk me through some better decisions that could have been made at a few critical times. Bill already filled me in of some of that. ie don't untie and free solo down something you can't climb up - prussik up and join the group. Which would save the danger, uncertainty and the gear.

Joseph, thanks for the encouragement and info. I'll have to tell you the whole story sometime, quite entertaining.

Sunday 1/18 two friends and I had to rappel from the tree ledge above the slab pitch of the SE corner. As dark was approaching quickly we had to leave a sling and a biner around the tree as well as the gear that was placed around the corner from our rappel line - Two wild country rocks with slings and biners, and a sling clipped to the Leeper Z. All gear is marked with green paint and is greatly missed. I would gladly trade it for drinks and the story complete with impromptu free solo, hypothermia, rescue on a munter hitch without prusik backup (had no slings left and was unprepared), stuck rappel ropes that had to be ascended with prusiks and freed.

Bought a $60 PMI per a gear alert phone call from bill. Used it yesterday and it has a great feel. Thanks Bill for your gear pimpin

pm sent