Cornfed

Dumbass (me) didn't fully zip pocket. Lost on evening of 7/21/10. We climbed to the top and repeated the middle pitch. Single key with clicker. If you found it, please call or e-mail. I'll exchange it for your favorite 6-pack of beer. Thanks - 206-501-1335 robstephenson@yahoo.com

I've managed to maintain some climbing since having my daughter (now 4) was born, but always love to meet new partners -- especially other Dads who seem to have similar competing interests back home for quick alpine trips. I've also, just this year tried to start up an annual (or more) camping trip with other families with similar interests (i.e. we like to camp, we have kids, and the Dads and some Moms like to climb). My daughter has been on top rope a few times, but is taking to it sloooowly. I've got another girl on the way in a few months too. I live in Seattle, trad and alpine climb, ice climb, and ski the back-country when I can. Assuming you are getting some other PMs, it'd be awesome to compile a short list-serve of folks. Another observation is that Dads have a tougher time getting out so having a robust list of possible partners is beneficial. Let me know -- robstephenson@yahoo.com

I've never done Franklin myself or seen it in the winter, and I'm still relatively new to leading ice, but I'd love to give it a go this weekend - Saturday preferably. Anyone done it before? Anyone interested in going up Saturday morning before the WA ice season expires? I'd also be interested in climbing other local falls, but don't know of much else other than the lower Phantom and a short pitch in Alpental on the way up to Source Lake that may not have much ice due to the low amount of snow.

With the real little ones, I worry most about a safe belay area. The Feathers has a 3 bolt 5.1 and a couple other low/mid-5th class routes. I took my daughter there on her 3 year old birthday. It was her first time and I was a little over-ambitious, but she made about 8' of progress before asking to come down. It has a reasonably safe belay area. I haven't been there since having my daughter, but the Smoke Bluffs always seemed to be a great place for Mom and Dad to play with great safe areas for young ones to play if you had another couple to go with and take turns. Some of the Exit 38 areas (like by the tressle) make me nervous with very young and excitable kids.

That sounds really good -- I'm hoping my partner pulls through, but I'd love to line up a back-up plan in the mean time. If anyone wants to partner up, please let me know. 206-501-1335

I was planning to do the same (with a Friday night Seattle departure) and a 1 day climb and ski for Saturday -- my partner came down sick last night and may or may not be ready for a Saturday afternoon departure and a Sunday climb/ski. I wouldn't mind having a back-up plan if he doesn't recover if others are interested -- we could also make it a 3/4 person party if others are interested in the same agenda/ route. Idea is to climb South ridge and descend Avalanche Glacier headwall if it looks good or SW Chutes as a back-up. Road is clear to within 1 mi of trailhead. New plan would be to leave Seattle around 4pm on Saturday. robstephenson@yahoo.com

Trip: Mt Shuksan - North Face attempt Date: 2/14/2009 Trip Report: My normal ski partner (Ari) took off on Friday to join danielpatricksmith for an early approach of a North Face attempt. Ari phoned me from their camp at 5100 feet. I told them I'd text in the am if I was on my way. I considered making the solo drive on no sleep, and then trying to find and catch them prior to their planned departure at 5am. This was more daunting than the route itself. Just as I was about to bail, SmilingWhiteKnuckles (John) agreed to become partners in crime. We left the trailhead at 4:30 am and could make out the twinking headlamps of Ari and John getting ready to start climbing. By 6am, they disappeared over the ridge line near the start of the climb. We were feeling good about following their skin track and boot pack up the route to speed our ascent given that a previous trip report called the round trip at 17 hours. We arrived at Dan and Ari's camp at 7:20, just as they re-appeared at the ridge line -- bad sign--so much for having a packed out route to speed our ascent. Contemplating the weather, they decided they weren't willing to start up with clouds hovering all the high peaks and flurries in the air. John and I seeing a lot of blue sky now that they sun was up and being all dressed up without any place else to go continued up the route knowing we could always turn. At the base, we encounted lots of snow, but decided to switch to boots and crampons and rope up. We were expecting several inches on top of hard packed snow. What we got was well consolidated deep powder. The higher we went the softer the snow became. John led for heroically to the Bergshrund at 6700 feet through knee deep powder, which took about 75 minutes. Fact: The route gets steeper (so we've read) Fact: The snow was getting deeper Fact: Flurries were still flying and the top remained in light cloud cover. Fact: Facts one and two increased our concern about avy danger. Conclusion: We felt good despite little sleep, but we were moving too slow. The snow conditions and increasing steepness would slow us even more or perhaps force a retreat higher up. Continuing meant embracing an epic, and there were still flurries and light clouds circling the high peaks. The ski down was fantastic, and we lapped a north facing fan shaped coiloir which had the same deep snow we encountered low on the route before leasurely continuing our retreat. We smiled all afternoon and felt good about turning. Another week of no snow and it may be in great shape. I'd be interested to hear of anyone climbing the whole thing. John took all the photos -- we'll try to get something posted. Gear Notes: We took 2 screws and 3 pickets and a pair of axes each. I tink the ski poles on the climb and a mountaineering axe would be the recommended tools. We didn't encounter any hard ice, but we had another 1700 feet of steep climbing to go. Approach Notes: From the clearcut, we traversed nearly parellel (perhaps losing 100') staying in the thick trees, for a couple of miles. There are several small gulleys to cross. We dropped down at one of the last gulleys (another 100-200') which enters the bowling alley of avy debris below the White Salmon glacier (above right) and Hanging Glacier (above left).

OK -- call any time. I might try to catch a few winks yet tonight, but maybe leave around 12/1am? If we're partnered up, I'm not quite as concerned about catching the boys before they leave their tent. We can talk and strategize tonight.

Give me a call: 206-501-1335 or e-mail: robstephenson@yahoo.com I am interested, and would LOVE to do the drive with someone else to help keep company and stay awake.

Looks like Dan found a partner (one of my partners) for N face Shuksan and White Salmon descent. Was thinking about trying to catch up to their camp tomorrow morning (around day break). Anyone want to join me? Depart Seattle late evening (12:30/1am) for the drive to Baker. I have wheels.

You guys sounds like you're doing well on still getting out and staying active. Sounds like you are all in the Portland area. We have a 2 1/2 year old and although it keeps getting better (the kids part) we have yet to find a compatible "climbing" couple with similar goals to plan camping and climbing trips with.

Looking to get out for a single long day tomorrow since the weather will be so nice. Prefer rock climbing with a competent partner. Darrington Blueberry route or Orbit in Leavenworth or something similar. Could also do more of an alpine day like Mt Thompson. Open to other ideas as well. e-mail me w/ your ph number if interested: robstephenson@yahoo.com

PLC - send me your e-mail and I'll add you to the list of folks. I've got about a dozen names or so, which should aid finding mid-week partners.

Super-topo has max beta if you like it. For longer routes, I find this very helpful. Plus you can buy it on-line for like $10 and have it instantaneously and print out only the sheets you want and bring them with you on a climb. It has all the classics you'll want to try and a good range of routes.

Looking to put together a short list of partners interested in after work climbing to the local crags until daylight and weather no longer allow it. If interested, post here or e-mail me and I'll compile a list. You can spam the list on days you're able to make it out. Ideally, we could carpool from downtown Seattle or along one of the park and rides on the way to the crags. I typically can exit around 4pm or so on climbing days. Also a good way to meet new partners for longer routes. robstephenson@yahoo.com

It is $30 for a year. I've spent this a hundred times buying a round of shots or a case of beer. Small price to pay to support something that we all love--access to the outdoors. If you are in Washington State, you don't even pay income tax (assuming you have income), most everyone else does. Every year when I buy my pass, I consider it a donation to support the trails and trailheads I use--just like the Access Fund or the Northwest Avalanche Center. All of this stuff cost money to maintain. I'll bet if you volunteer for a day clearing trails, you could negotiate next year's pass.

How about Wed after work? Anyone? robstephenson@yahoo.com Index or I-90. I can leave at 4pm.

Two of us are going for a Saturday ascent. Leave Seattle at ~11pm tonight to get an early start. Weather is supposed to start deteriorating by late Saturday so we're hoping to stay ahead of it. We've got room in the car and on the rope for one more strong skier if you're interested. Rob 206-501-1335

I might be up for a Saturday day trip -- was thinking about skiing one of the bigger mountains on Saturday, but climbing on a nice day in Leavenworth is a good alternative. I've climbed Outer Space but that is aboue the limit of my trad leading skills. What do you have in mind? robstephenson@yahoo.com

Weather Saturday is shaping up nicely. I was thinking of skiing it on Tele/ Randonee. Are you skiing or booting it? Camp at trailhead and climb it in a day? Let me know if this sounds interesting. robstephenson@yahoo.com

Possibly -- I was hoping to round up a ski companion to do Baker or Shuksan Saturday. If that doesn't work out, a little climbing would be good. I'd be coming from Seattle.

Family man - how old is your kid? I've got a 2 year old girl. Before she was born, my wife was my trusty partner--if I could lead it, she could follow, but she's lost interest so I try to balance climbing with family time. Sounds like you might play the same balancing act. I've been looking for other climbers/ skiers with kids for a while with limited success. I like to get out after work during the summer (work and live in Seattle). robstephenson@yahoo.com

I am otherwise tied up camping with my wife and 2 year old daughter until Sunday afternoon, but would love to do a day trip someplace on Monday -- let me know if you don't get any better offers. I've had a hankering for something in Darrington, but I don't know if the routes are dry yet. I'd also love to get out tomorrow afternoon/evening for some sport at Exit 32/38 if the sun comes out tomorrow. Work should wind down early tomorrow. robstephenson@yahoo.com

We were watching you guys from the Lake and thinking we didn't see you come down Saturday night. Good to hear you made it out okay. I think we saw your gear stashed at the edge of Colchuck Lake as well. Here is a photo of you on route -- I think we've got you circled in red.

Does this sound like anyone else out there? My wife used to be my primary climbing partner, but since our daughter was born (21 months) climbing is very low on her list. Climbing for me is still something I love to do, which has meant abandoning the girls at home. I'd love to meet other like-minded climbing folks (I live in Seattle) or hear suggestions from others who have solved this problem. I think the best solution is for 2-3 families to make an outing of it so that there are many belay and care-giver hands to help watch out for each other. The next question would be: what are some good crags that are kid (i.e. < 3 years old) friendly.