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Matt Kidd

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Everything posted by Matt Kidd

  1. Theft within the climbing community?

    My story is one where "the bad guys got theirs" in the end. I was told it at Rampart Hostel on the Icefields Parkway. Anyway, over dinner these two nice guys (I can't remember their names so lets call them Bob and Jim) told us a story about a day out on Weeping Wall. Apparently they were about to start up right-hand when a second party of two arrived. These guys asked what they were going to climb to which Bob and Jim replied right-hand and something on the upper tier. One of the other party asks "So you're for sure climbing something on the upper tier?" to which they replied "yes". So at the top of right hand Bob and Jim decide they're done for the day and rap off, while the other party is about to start pitch 3 on left-hand. When they get to the bottom they find their gear gone (camera, belay jacket, misc), but their pack still there. Just to be sure they check their car, and recheck their bag, and then check their car again. Nothing. So, convinced that someone came off the road and ripped them off, they're about to leave. Then Bob suggests "Why don't we check their packs" (the other party's). This is brushed off by the Jim, who says "they wouldn't rip us off, that'd be stupid". But Bob persists and they trudge back up to the base, where curiously the other party hasn't started rapping despite having finished some time ago. Sure enough in their packs is all the missing gear. Bob is furious and wants to climb up and confront them, but Jim convinces him that a death match with ice tools at the top of Weeping Wall is not a great idea. Bob refuses to leave, however. Instead after a great deal of yelling up at the party (who is refusing to come down), Bob goes down to the car and gets his bottle of Jack Daniels, and sets up camp at the base. As is usually the case, drinking the Jack only made Bob angrier, and at around midnight he has decided that he's had enough. Recognizing that he's in no shape for a confrontation, he settles for putting out all the windows, lights, mirrors, etc. on this party's car with his hammer, and generally demolishing it. Satisfied, they went back to the hostel. Then the hostel caretaker takes the story over. He said that a couple days later he got a phone call from the cops. They asked him if he knew people by Bob and Jim's description, and he identified them. He asked what the problem was and the cops said that they had been accused of this vandalism. Apparently the car owner had said that they had been innocently climbing and saw these guys wreck their vehicle. The insurance company smelled a rat and started questioning, and the guy says "Nevermind, I don't want to claim the damage anymore." The insurance company said "Doesn't work like that", and called the cops. So in the end (we'd gotten the story after everything had panned out) the car owner had been denied his claim, and convicted of insurance fraud. Bob and Jim had no charges laid for vandalism. Bob and Jim said to watch your gear if you ever climb near a party with a yellow Geo Tracker.
  2. Petzl rocpeck drill and placing bolts

    I've never placed a bolt but I'd have to second what MarkM said. When drilling concrete, which is generally softer than rock, I never use my cordless drill/driver - the hammer drill on a standard cordless is not only painfully slow, its really hard on the batteries. That is why they die so quickly, you'll be buying new ones regularily if that is a common usage. Jamin - a lot of people suggesting rethinking your approach, I hope you're listening. A lot of combined experience weighing in, after all...
  3. Nylon jacket patchable?

    You could probably use a tent repair patch on the inside and then dab some seam sealer along the outside tear... or a goretex repair kit?
  4. Replacing Windows in my House

    That's actually a pretty nice scenario. As long as you are willing to patch in some shakes after it'll be pretty easy to make sure that you're properly flashed, and will end up with a nice product. You also have the option of getting the pre-cased exterior windows which would mean that you would only have to do the shakes, flashing, and interior casing. Should be good...
  5. Replacing Windows in my House

    what is your exterior siding material(s)?
  6. Replacing Windows in my House

    Off White does mention something that would save you time to consider. The trim package that you have especially on the exterior is something to consider. It can be hard to make a window look good if you are buying it with exterior trim built in. Depending upon your siding style it can be difficult/impossible to make it look original. Taking the insert approach does save you the trouble of re-trimming but you do get a smaller window.
  7. Replacing Windows in my House

    Straight fibreglass shouldn't have this problem.
  8. Replacing Windows in my House

    Probably because of installation. If a flange style then over nailing prevents the window from moving independently from the house. The other thing some people slip up on is oversizing the window for the rough opening - shouldn't fit snug for the same reason. The other possibility is that it was inadequately/unevenly supported. In larger windows their own weight will force them out of square, shimming is the cure. It also could just be a crap window. Some of the hinges settle, etc. Seconding Dechristo on the no problem of mixed mediums. Not that I've experienced, anyway. I have asked about that a few times at trade shows and each manufacturer is cognizant of possible issues and deals with it in their own way. The only thing that I might be worried about is using a really dark colour on metal cladding - would heat up in sunny conditions and might cause some issues, but who knows...
  9. Replacing Windows in my House

    Clear stain-grade fir windows can look amazing. One other suggestion - buy them from a company that will come to your house and measure up for you. They'll tend to be more accurate at sizing windows for your rough opening. Also, if the measurements are wrong (windows being too big as the real problem) then you aren't out of pocket and can just send them back. Sadly in the conractors world it's all about abdication of responsibility.
  10. Replacing Windows in my House

    I've installed lots of wood windows and the best ones have been from Dynamic Wi. They are on our side of the border but they do at least as much business in the States. Coworkers of mine toured the factory and they had an order ready to go out to the Clinton residence. Are you getting a contractor or installing them yourself? The catch is I don't know if they are willing to deal directly with homeowners. Nice wood windows are the best IMO, but poor ones can be a nightmare. If you are thinking first about price I might not go that route. Of course your resale will have a lot more to it than windows so if you are not in a upper scale home you run a real risk of not getting your money back. The other aspect is about the maintenance... Stained or painted they'll need plenty. The cladded windows are cool for that, obviously lose some visual appeal on the exterior. good luck,
  11. William F Buckley Jr, RIP

    I think the real reason that you'll never see another popular pundit like this one is because of the assumptions that his program makes - that the audience understands and can absorb a discussion about the Truman Doctrine, Monroe Docrine, Marshall Plan, Greek History, Czechoslovakian Cold War politics, and the domestic and colonial history of Vietnam all in less than 20 minutes.
  12. awesome!

    There are no good boulderers?
  13. Mt Fuji anyone????

    My mom walked up it (mid fifties and NOT a climber). Apparently a long line of people trodding along. Sounded worthwhile, but I'd get up really early to get ahead of the crowds.
  14. awesome!

    Just to bait people, what about boulders - its expected that you'll work the problem (with no bolts to offend). Might not really be my thing but it seems to me that practicing really hard moves is what making people get so good.
  15. Knee Pain Questions for the Doc

    Where on the knee is the pain? Have had problems with different knee pains. The IT Band was mentioned - pain on the outside of the knee. Difficult to stretch but cured it for me. I also had problems with patella-femoral syndrome (irritation on the back of the kneecap). Saw a GP, sports med doc, physio, podiatrist etc. All diagnosed the problem, noone offered a solution. Found out sort of by accident that a latent strained calf was behind it - two weeks of good stretching = no more pain. Do you stretch?
  16. Idiocracy

    The other thing that I noticed is that working-class people ignore you as soon as you start with the academic jargon. Many will talk politics on site over a double/double (I'm in Canada) as long as you engage them respectfully and with language that doesn't exclude them.
  17. Idiocracy

    I confess I've read a few of the political rant threads and have never contributed my opinion. Before contributing it is apparently important to clarify who I am and what I do. I am a carpenter. Before that I climbed trees with chainsaws for rich people. Before that I worked in a steel fab. shop, before that I installed irrigation systems in graveyards. etc... In a couple months I will (finally) have worked my way through a history/politics degree, so I've spent some time on both sides of the fence (working class/academic). I stopped attending political rallies. I stopped the union talk with my co-workers. I stopped trying to get everyone to watch Bakan's "The Corporation". I do think that people are affected by marketing, that consumerism is rampant etc. But people don't care, in my experience. Or, more accurately, some care but not enough. I think that things might change, but likely only when it get really bad for them. Marx thought so too, so maybe I still am a Marxist. So many are long with criticism and short with solutions. I'm one. If there is a problem what do we do?
  18. Half Ropes

    Looking for opinions on dry half-ropes for ice/alpine. I have used Beal 8.6s and have no reason to want anything different as they have performed well. Nonetheless, before spending the $... thoughts?
  19. Half Ropes

    [i've thought about getting twins for when weight is of utmost importance.] The metolius 7.8 double rope is the same g/m as the Mammut twin at 38. I would probably go that route. I have not been that happy with the twin system - you do get the longer raps but I would prefer the less rope drag esp. in ice/alpine to any modest weight gain. The Phoenix was a compromise for me at 3g/m more weight. Just my opinion.
  20. Half Ropes

    Ended up with the Mammut Phoenix doubles. Bought the BD ATC Guide to go along as suggested. Greatly improved the ice trip, thanks for the suggestions.
  21. Lillooet Jan. 26-29

    Jan 26 - Rambles left - all in, top pillars wet but fat Jan 27 - Jade falls - in and fat, but right side quite wet. Pillar formed to the right was dripping wet, but temps dropped after this day so ??? Shriek of the Sheep - looked good Night 'N Gale - looked fat, but river and snow depth talked us out of it. Jan 28 - Oregon Jack in, fat, and dry. Marble Canyon - Icy BC pitch 1 in and well-climbed, pitch 2 in and wet, pitch 3 in but looking lean Deeping Wall - not quite touching but in. Formed right in the far left corner Jan 29 - Rambles Centre - All in and fat. Left finish in easy conditions. Rambles Right - Was told all in and fat. Lenin - ice quality not great Robin Hood - in and looking nice Lots of ice everywhere!
  22. Half Ropes

    Good suggestions. Any others out there using the Metolius 7.8s? Thanks...
  23. Half Ropes

    How is the dry coating on the Mammut/Metolius? I had heard that he Beal has the best dry system. The feel of the Beal isn't as nice as the Mammut, but I would rather have the rope that will best resist freezing. Has this been an issue? As for the Metolius, what about the durability being a smaller diameter rope? How do you find rapping with gloves on (though in Red Rocks likely didn't have to)? The weight of the Metolius is definately attractive. thanks
  24. Nice one Cam, Mark. Thanks for checking it out Don. -Matt
  25. This is for sure the route. Pretty obvious from the road, surprised it is unclimbed? It was thin, but if fatter would be an easy grade 3 ~50-55m. A second 20m step that could be 3+ or 4 was not completely formed, and above... ?