Plaidman

Why don't you just STFU! This is our crag and if you ever climbed there or did anything but sport climb or climb in the gym you would know that it is off the hook awesome. Granted I don't know you but why don't you just mind your own business. We love to bitch about shit and that is just the way it is.

I will work it and get it free. Then it is open season.

It's really close. We will get it this weekend for sure. I am not leaving until we top out. Should be very straight forward from here. Hell last weekend I free climbed half of the pitch. It is going to be so cool. That last part from last weekend was really good. Lot's of exposure on the arête. Here is a link to some cool footage that Rick got. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=3804441464521

I looked at it once. Does that count as an on sight?

That sounds about right. I use 2/60's when I rap off that cock. But then again I find rappelling repellent.

Yeah 4 pitches. The first pitch will take gear on one variation. I put a red sling on the first bolt to denote that it is a project like you suggested.

I swear this damn thing is growing. We almost got to the top. I got 10 bolts in today. I will have to wait till next weekend to finish it. Here is some [video:facebook]Facebook video ID; 3804441464521 (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=3804441464521)

I have some adventures logged on my blog at OregonLive.com Here are the links: http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing/2009/12/starvation_creek_falls_-_ice_c.html http://blog.oregonlive.com/climbing/2009/12/columbia_river_gorge_ice_climb.html We have been skunked the last 2 years in the Gorge. This year is going to be it I am sure. If you are around look me up. I not great at the game but I sure go love me some Gorge ice. Rick my ice climbing partner has done some of the cravasses up on Hood. Lots of work for not much of a bang. It is nothing like waterfall ice. HERO ICE is the best and Gorge ice can be a bit sketchy. We always have a great time though.

I'd say it is a WHOLE bunch. Especially if Fred can't remember how many. We have a running joke if we think we have a first ascent. We always say Fred beat you to it. Fred has been everywhere. Just like the Johnny Cash song.

Thanks for the cool PLAID-ESQUE music. That will be the tunes when I top out on my route. I think I may even dance a little jig just for you.

New high point in this photo. I got above the monster knob. There is a serious overhang there. The bolt I got in was the hardest and scaryest yet. That knob I was standing on was bigger than me. So I was hanging off knobs and standing on a big one.

Thanks Bill for the pics and the write up on the the painful progress on "Brother Mike". I am definitely enjoying the ride. It is way cool up there and the rock is still bomb proof. Wish I could get other climbers to take a look at it. About letting you pass on Beacon. To not let you pass would have been criminal, as the way I climb is the murder of the possible.

Just got back. Got the rappel/belay in for the first pitch. And got up to easier ground. Had two spinners. Who knew that lock-tite instantly bonds in the blazing sun. Screwed up two bolts. I added another and will remove the two that are trash. Good day though. The next pitch is going to be cake. We will just have to see about that. Bill was out there with some other yahoos. Waiting now for the pics he took of me one route.

TO THE STEEPLE! TO THE STEEPLE! TO THE STEEPLE! The battle cry has been sounded. Fist belay will go in this weekend. Then the climbing may be reasonable. We will see. Solo again. WAHHHH HOOOOO!

You guys are AWESOME. When I grow up I wanna be just like ya. Great trip report. Just read the highlights. Great pics. You bastards. Love ya any way. I make my trip to The Valley this fall.

Nice rack of stuff. Me needs this whole package. No money. Damn it I need that porta-ledge. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/spo/3145902827.html I hope this gear finds a good home.

The first pitch is almost in. Just need to drill the chain anchors for the rappel/ belay. It is shaping up to be a really cool climb. I hope to be able to free climb it. I looks to be in the mid 5.10 range. The next pitch looks like I will be able to free climb it and bolt on lead. I will run it out by slinging the monster knobs and bolt when I get freaked out. Well, maybe it would be better to bolt before I freak out.

Heading up today. Wanted to get started earlier but I had to go to the beach to celebrate my anniversary. Didn't get home till 1:00 am. We will stay out till dark today.

Yep that is where I put the high point. HOLY CRAP I HAVE A LONG WAY TO GO!!!!!

Kenny what the hell are you talking about. Give me a call. If this crap is true it is total BS. I am in a mood anyway. I am busy on my route on The Steeple and will not be out to Beacon until it is done. Like I said give me a call. Have fun out there guys.

There is a way. PM me.

At least according to the 6 member reviews on this site: http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Camming-Device-Reviews/Totem-Cam I am sold as I have 3 of the .65 and .80 Then a set of doubles of the other 3 sizes. Love my Totems!

PM me I and I will spill the beans.

Two more pics from the belayer of the year. Photo below. I quit before the drill did, but I did burn out two belayers.

Cold One, The Empress of Adventure and I went up and I got 6 more bolts up on the route. I am almost at a belay ledge. Not too much further now. I hope the next pitch goes easier. Ground up is kicking my ass.