Robert Howell

Looks like things are dropping way down up north, at least compared to what I am used to. Lillooet forecast

temperatures are supposed to drop way down this weekend and through next week.

How long was the drive from Vancouver?

Beautifully done! Looks like there was some great puckering to be had.

Not to derail the thread... but do you have any more pictures of robson?

I think Salem, OR is the backdrop.

Wow, you have no idea how much this helps. Thanks a lot. EDIT: Actually you probably do...

Yeah except for the fact that professional road bikers have the lower extremity bone density of 80 year old women. In terms of training for climbing, I believe running is superior for a few reasons: 1) The high loading in running makes it the best bone-building exercise possible. So especially if you are female, running now can help prevent osteoporosis. Also, the high eccentric impulses into the lower extremity causes more deep tissue breakdown, thus over time making the muscles and connective tissues denser and much stronger (if you don't overtrain). 2) There is a greater "transfer of training" effect. Running (especially on uneven and steep terrain) makes for a very similar set of movement patterns as in hiking. Because of this you are training the same balance patterns and exact muscles as in climbing (well, speaking of the hiking part that is). I also find it interesting that the literature shows that barefoot runners have the lowest incidence of lower extremity injury..... I think it is a combination of the two. I simply cannot do my 2-3 hour intervals or hill routines more than twice a week. My legs get absolutely destroyed. Biking kicks my ass and my legs feel great the next day. So, for those who cannot give up running altogether just run a little bit less and start cycling.

Looks like waiting until it cools down early next week is the only option.

I think that warm temps tomorrow AND Friday would make Saturday reasonable, but nothing is ever for certain. The warm temps and high freezing level would be something to take into account. I think an early start and something in the shade during the climb (i.e. Reid) would be worth checking out but not a guarantee. I do wonder about the descent down West Crater in the sun...

Damn. I can't wait to get up there. Thanks for the great pictures.

Yep, I am a 43.5 in Trango's and Nepal's and a 44.5 in the Spantik.

I am in Eugene now but may be transplanting to Vancouver, B.C. this fall. How long is the ice season in and who is willing to go on some trips with me? I may be taking time off to climb full time...

Thanks for the info. I am going to be up there this weekend but I am not sure whether our group will be doing the gates or the old chute. Hopefully the gates, but I will let you guys know how it pans out either way. Luckily it looks like the weather may hold off.

We did the Reid Headwall on Monday and descended the gates to see how it was shaping up this year. It was quite surprising to see how steep it was this year. The ice was hard and made for great purchase though and would have probably been easier with a second tool. The traverse from the hogsback is damn steep too. On our way out we found some boot tracks that stopped halfway between the hogsback and the gates. It appeared that the party probably decided to turn back (and traverse from lower down) when the snow got harder and the exposure got to them. The truly bizarre thing about the climb was watching three climbers head towards Devil's Kitchen headwall at about noon! The way the mountain was coming down on us on the Reid in the shade was enough to get us moving faster. I can't imagine climbing the DK Headwall in that heat.