pink

unless ur a well seasoned as far as nailing goes, i think most peeps are gonna try a clean placement first.

Damned straight! That's why I wrote my new rep Jaime Herrera that I'm glad she's trying to overturn the healthcare bill because the people really want single-payer! Pink, how long have you had health insurance? Have you ever noticed that it goes up every year? *NEWSFLASH* It also goes up as you get OLDER. Welcome to the club grasshopper, you're moving closer to an AARP membership every year. yeah well it normally goes up $25 at a time, not $90. i've had this plan for about 9 years.

why wouldn't you want to do it clean? i really think tis was a silly question on JH's part, i think he just likes to talk tech no offense Joseph

+1

that's as intellectual as i get mister. who do you have insurance with and how much do you pay?

gee i never thought about making any phone calls i think the real issue here is that the liberal government likes to REWARD INACTIVITY so i decided to quit my job, get my marijuana card, have eight kids and play video games all day, and let all the hard working folks pick up my tab

so my health insurance just went up almost $90 this last month. this is the 3rd time my insurance has gonna up since obama was elected and according to my insurance company it's not over. i guess i'll work one more day a week, oh shit!!! there's only 7 day's in a week. i have one thing to say, and i'll be done.

that flare was really odd, much softer than most of the rock i've experienced out at beacon, there was no X'ing/pasting/sniffing involved i drove them into the back of the seam with my cleaning tool and mostly set the heads like nuts. guess i was trying to keep from having to fix my brass nuts. the brass just wasn't biting into the rock and when weighted was causing the rock to dissolve around it. i think the softer aluminum was giving me more of a cushion. definitely one of the more thought provoking things i've ever aided other than one the harder pitches up high on aurora that i led late at night after being up for 2 days witnessed by Andy Kirkpatrick, which he refers to me as the "tin of piss" climber in his book "Psycho Vertical". think i was more sleep deprived on that one .

was never keen on having a PROJ bill, it would be a pretty hard freeclimb, all the good holds are upsidedown .

Trip: BaconCockRockinSlutSnot- Psychedelic Laceration how the fuck do i tell the tale of this stone to all fuckin hell blurr fest, perhaps i should pray to the sweet holy baby jebus. fact is i never even threw a TR on PL before, much less lead that crusty ass slit. i knew form the cocksucking moment i'd be throwing on the training wheels to polish off what mr. Opdyke and mr. Tracy started back during the Reagan Years. the year was 1998, my partner was Blueblocker, the plan was to do a complete one day journey to the center of the mind, minus Ted Nugent. instead we invited Mike Muir and company cause John wasn't gonna cut the butter on this one. the first pitch of PW 10.B was always a favorite free climb of mine, i was always into climbing Jim's (Opdyke) routes cause it's fucking near impossible not to wheather you like the guy or not. i like Jim, he's one of my best friends, Jim pretty much is Beacon Rock as far as i'm concerned. one day on one of my frequent free ascents of PW with Jim, pointed out that this line had never been done as far as he knew ( Jim knows so one fall day i drug my friend MIke (Blue Blocker) out to Beacon to Belay and keep me company to try my hand at this fragile seam. the first pitch was business as usual, fun moves on a adequately protected fun fest. i had brought a boom box and a bunch of weed to keep my partner sedated wile i plugged away at this alleged virgin line. the first part was relatively drama free, mosty A1 with a few tricky placements and good hook placements. the business started when the seam went to a LA sized flare which i had trouble getting any clean gear to stick in the upper section, the small HB brassies that i had kept on blowing out of the LA/KB sized crack. i never realized how soft the rock at beacon is prior to this, it's as if there is this egg like shell coating the entire thing. i would have loved to have placed some LA's (cause i love bangin iron) but the seam is in the back of a flare, so pretty much the eye gets in the way. i'm sure JH has some Straight Euro Trash Iron that would had worked well but i didn't have any of those soft pitons designed for climbing on soft rock like this. so i ended up placing a few small heads to get through the crux sections. i barely placed these heads trying to keep clean as possible, all the heads ended up pulling out of the crack as my partner jugged the lead line. as i neared the rim to grassy ledges i heard a familiar voice, as i poked my head over the rim i realized i was just in time for a safety meeting. my best friend Jim (Mr. Beacon Rock) was sitting there to greet and congratulate me on the FA. it's really hard to believe there was a virgin dihedral left out there. i don't remember what i rated this climb but the placements were definitely thought provoking and i do remember falling on a fish hook. funny thing was when i got to the top my partner asked why in the fuck i wanted to climb this pitch. i then informed him it was an FA. i knew he'd want a piece of it if he found out it had never been done. i guess Algernon was groovin on the boom box and flowers a got for him

sustainability is an over used word for the most part...

cool, man i'm really missin beacon about riiiiiight NOW!!!!!

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/997880/2 repost you're parking ticket boy

more wounds

very cool, cochise is badass

http://www.boingboing.net/2011/01/08/congresswoman-gabrie.html surprised parking ticket boy hasn't zeroed in on this one yet

This is really creepy [video:youtube]v2Ms4pZPONw

what's w/ the keebler elf , you get all ur material from supertopo bill?

“I like your Christ, I do not like your Christians. Your Christians are so unlike your Christ.” i think Gandhi said this, and so did you sorta

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/937795/Re_Will_Jesus_make_me_a_better#Post937795 the wrath of god

no worries max, ivan mostly likes to play climbing. he's a nice guy but mostly a shit show when it comes to ivans climbing antics

i couldn't resist

Welcome aboard! BTW, Ivans route, Stone Soup, is still awaiting a First Free Ascent. We were all speculating who would nail (opps- pardon moi, clean free I mean!) it! We pretty much agreed it would go, but not by us *cough* cough* .....Ivan, you should forward that topo to Tim. Next book is out soon. Todd, whats the cliff by Beacon that's still open this time of year? Everything above @1500 feet is snowed in. That's less than 2 miles depending on the direction. Is it the lower cliffs on Hamilton? dude, the rangers are watching

*Uhhh, we might need to find someone who can translate Larry into English:-) It's not against the rules to talk about climbing or post any climbing pics ya know! So here goes. Old Larry was the moniker used to distinguish him from Larry Harpe, Pinks El Cap partner for Space (and others?) whom was on occasion referred to around here as Little Larry. Not that he wasn't a badass, just that Lucky Larry was bigger. In case you wonder what Larry H. looks like, he's seen here in that famous ad on the back of the climbing Mags. Larry upgraded from Pink and belayed Dean Potter on the FA of that real sparky Tombstone climb where Dean took a hell of a whipper. Double DDs: I never was King Beatard although it's true that I have climbed, as recently as last month in Red Rocks, with the man. I have a CC persona, it's me, what you see is what you get. I would, however, trade Beatards strong assed arms for my flabby out of shape ones though. King Beatard with the veins a poppin on the First ascent of Lone Wolf and the Last Hurrah at Beacon Rock. Beatard left a RURP up there as "someone" forgot the funkness and it's still there buried deep awaiting a 2nd ascent if anyone is into some booty. Bring a funkness or a chisel. Ivan? The King set to belay. FA of P2 of Lava Tube The King baggin the 2nd ascent, or maybe he's about to drop a deuce from fear , The Salethe Highway, The Old Witch Pinnacle at the Coethedral Formation. 2 ascents later Plaidman pulled a cantaloupe sized block off from just at tad above this shot that flew 300' down and almost killed his dog waiting patiently on the ground. Hanging with the man, waiting for Ujahn to stop playin with himself up above, check out the brand new Wired Bliss cam right there:-) Woot! Your Total for the cams is $XXX and that you are in Oregon there are no AZ taxes. Thank you for being the first customer of the Wired Bliss return. Michael McGuinn A little windy, check out the strap from the pack whipping around. Nothing like the rainstorm/shit storm today though. King Beatard becoming a peon of the Gunks. The King leading the first ascent of Excalibur. Kyle Silverman photo. BTW, *Welcome to being a real person Kirk. Really, it's much better for the psyche. bill, are you by chance going through a mid-life crisis? ur story has a few holes in it and i got ask??? are you gay/hot for adam? jst in case ya didn't know the little guy wavin means i'm playing around