kayfire

Don't be too sore denalidevo--I'm just trying to rile you. I do find such TR's a bit amusing, but, basically, Sheri's comments are spot on. Cheers peeps!

where's yer tr's dawg? show us how it's done! Yes, perhaps I should contribute; here goes: Today I went to Vantage--it was SICK! On the way to Vantage I stopped at the gas station where I was like, "Should I fill up with Unleaded or Premium. Hmmmm. Well," I thought, "you only live once!" so I filled 'er up with premium unleaded...SICK! Next, I stopped in North Bend where I stopped and bought a breakfast sandwich, a cup 'o joe, and a maxipad; the sandwich was to DIE FOR; the coffee was HOT; and the maxipad, oh so soft. SICK! At Vantage I climbed a bunch of gas ass sport routes--SICK! I took 20 draws (10 with orange dog bones; 10 with pink dog bones); however, I only used 11. I also brought bigbros (did not use); balznuts (did not use); nuts (did not use); pickets (did not use), crampons (did not use), plastic boots (used only for the approach), and testicles (DID NOT USE). SICK! The drive home--SICK! Will post some pictures later. All in all a SICK day! Thanks to all my bros and hos--you guys rock; what would I do without you. Oh yeah! And props to Jane for her first lead! Super duper SICK!

Not to be too much of an asshole or anything, but, seriously, what's up with the Index trip reports?! Do we really need a TR of Joe Blow's umpteenth foray up Godzilla, BOC, Roger's Corner? I guess if I'm not interested in such TRs, then I just shouldn't click on the links--true enough; however, this fact aside, I am, nevertheless, intrigued at what's prompting folks to post such drivel. Since I'm getting shit off my chest, I might as well state this as well: I don't give a flying fuck what you and your buddies ate for breakfast! Seriously, if I see one more TR that starts off: "The alarm went off; it was early; my buddy and me stopped at McDonald for coffee and Egg McMuffins" I'm going to hurl. DO NOT CARE PEOPLE. Reporting what's in, how much snow's left on the approach/descent, etc., great, nice, useful information. That you ate a big breakfast, took a shit, that Godzilla requires a "full rack"--drivel. Ok, and one final thing--I'm getting tired of reading TR where people state what they brought, but did not use; e.g., "I brought ice screws, but did not use." Useless information. If in your TR you don't tell me you used a piece of gear, I'm not going to assume you did.

Oh yeah--great stuff and super easy to make. Best mead, IMHO, made from Fireweed honey. Would be interested in your line Drew; do tell.

On the recipe recommendation, here's a great one (calculated for 5 gallons)--brewed this one many times; always a hit--good session brew. 6 lbs British two-row pale malt 1 lb. 40-50 Lovibond English crystal malt 1 oz. English Fuggles hops (boiling) 0.4 oz. English Kent Goldings hops (flavor) 0.4 oz. English Kent Golding hops (aroma) 1/4 tsp. Irish moss Ale Yeast Throw in an ounce of black patent to add some color (optional). IBU: 34 OG: 1.045-1.049 FG: 1.010 - 1.014 Use a single-step infusion mash. Add boiling hops and boil for 75 minutes. Add flavor hops and Irish moss and boil for an addition 15 minutes. Turn off heat and add aroma hops and steep for 2 to 3 minutes. If you have any questions--shoot me a PM. Cheers!

Yeah, I was going to say, no need for the protein rest. If you are trying to clone Dogfish Head 90 min. IPA, btw (don't know if that was your goal or not), forget all that crystal malt and do the whole recipe with British 2 row pale. I wouldn't recommend a longer mash--60 min. is ideal (assuming you're maintaining an appropriate temperature). If you're going for a fuller body, then maybe increase sparge temperature, otherwise I wouldn't mess with that either. Don't be afraid to add that 1 ounce of hops for dry hopping--that's an appropriate amount. Remember, dry hopping doesn't contribute to IBUs. Also, be careful not to over-pitch the yeast (http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_pitchrate.cfm). Been brewing for 17 years--good times.

Yeah, 5 raps?! Dragontail's descent is nothing more than a particularly tame walk off--no rapping required; wonder where you got turned around? I agree with Gene--I think the route is much better than the picture painted by your TR. Not N. Ridge of Stuart quality, but pretty fun, nevertheless.

WTF, why would you want to aid at Vantage!? Geez! Probably the same F*n reasons you want to go there. Ok, now that makes sense.

WTF, why would you want to aid at Vantage!? Geez!

Does anyone know if it’s true that the Mutineers’ crag class will be at Vantage Saturday and Sunday (April 4-5)? I’m legitimately curious because a Mutineers class was there a few weeks ago and it was a bit of a clusterfuck/dufus fest; 15 neophytes and 5 idiot instructors, all wearing gators, convertible pants, and helmets adorned with duct tape and the wearer’s name in big black letters, all mobbing the area’s most popular routes. In general the area was busy, so I had to wait to climb some routes, but the routes the Mutineers were mobbing were unavailable all day. I guess there’s nothing, per se, wrong with hijacking a route for an entire day, it’s just annoying; hence, if this ridiculous group is going to be there, I’d rather stay away. BTW, isn’t Vantage kind of a fucked up place for a “crag” class? What’s being taught exactly? How to clip bolts? How to clip one or two daisys to a hanger affixed to a Rawl 5-piece? I mean, there is some great trad at Vantage (IMHO), but most of it is going to be too difficult for most folks in a crag class (also, there really--IMHO--isn’t enough real estate when it come to “easy” trad routes, so it’s not an ideal place to teach a (large) class). baa baa baa baa baa baa baa baa baa

Nice pictures. FYI, that is not a water purifier, it's a water filter only.

I thought the video was good; the article on the other hand was complete crap. Poorly written with multiple errors--unacceptable.

Wow, do you actually KNOW Fred? Cool.

I'll go.

Without regard to any climbing prowess I may or may not possess, I am merely pointing out to those who might look to this TR for advice as to rack size, that there are some who would find A2THEK’s rack excessive. Just providing a different perspective. Considering that in A2THEK’s own words there are “lots of horns to sling," that most of the route can be “simulclimbed,” and that most of the route is “low 5th class,” think doubles of any piece probably overkill. Maybe not overkill for A2THEK, but generally overkill for most reasonably experienced alpine climbers who would try this route. I’m not putting A2THEK down—his accomplishment is respectable and I congratulate him; I’m just throwing in my $0.02. If I hadn’t climbed the route before and came across this thread, I’d find the varying opinions regarding rack size informative.

Nice job. That's a pretty big rack though. I think I placed 2 pieces on the entire ridge, but that's just me. I think doubles of anything are unnecessary.

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not necessarily questioning these ascensionists’ ethic (haven’t been on the route, so have nothing on which to base an opinion of their bolting decisions). It’s just the generalized notion that bolting something as a matter of convenience rather than necessity is ok, that kind of rubs me the wrong way. What I can’t quite reconcile is the idea that by bolting an off-width, you can save climbers the hassle of hauling up a big rack. True, but then why not just bolt all naturally protectable climbs so that climbers only need to bring draws? That too saves a lot of hassle. At what point does utility justifiably outweigh necessity? Not sure where the line should be drawn. Don’t have an answer. With regard to Polaris—I’m sure it’s a fine route, and those who put it up fine people. Nice work you two—I apologize if I bumped your thread in the wrong direction. Can’t wait to climb your route (and to clip those bolts )!

Yeah, not to dis the overall accomplishment (which is impressive—congratulations), but I think that logic is fucked up and sets kind of a poor precedent. It doesn’t follow logically to me, simply because most people don’t have and/or can’t afford a rack big enough to protect a pitch, that it then becomes ok to bolt a gear protectable crack.

Is the #4 still fixed? Should I bring a #4?

How's crossing this glacier at this time in the season? Anyone have any current beta/pictures?

It's awesome--I love it!

Camp has a new biner due out soon that's even lighter than the Oz....

?? WTF Terrible advice/beta!

Leavenworth, Vantage? Anyone?

Dean did not trash that Tuolume crag--I know this for a fact. Maybe you need to get your facts straight. Dean also was not the one who brought attention to the DA climb. Thank Patagonia for that.