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tvashtarkatena

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Everything posted by tvashtarkatena

  1. I drove into Canada across a ditch between two parallel roads and came out the same way, but that was before 911. I suspect there may be a camera there now. Ah, what the hey, it's only 10 grand fine + a session of non-consensual fisting if you get caught.
  2. the longer the better. clip the sling to the lowest hole on the picket you can dig through soft snow to get to. IE, the picket should be cantilevered vertically as little as possible. Dig a trench for the runner so that it runs free, downhill, towards the direction of a possible fall. This keeps the sling from popping the runner up and out. If the snow is so soft that a picket isn't going to hold when placed vertically, either stow it (you probably don't need it) or deadman it if you need it to provide security for a more technical ground above or below.
  3. EcoNazis, after destroying NYC, move west!
  4. If, in fact, my car is being detailed, I'm going to say "Thanks, brah!" On the other hand, when Immigration details your vehicle, it tends to start with box cutters. These two questions are good ones and recommended. If you are ever ASKED to be searched by any officer, ask them these questions as a reply. DON'T GIVE YOUR CONSENT IF ASKED. Unfortunately, law enforcement's criteria for probable cause can, on occasion, be a bit on the broad side. Nervousness (who would be nervous at a border stop?), sweating, fumbling, weird smells (not that climbers would ever have to worry about that) - and you're off to the races. "I smelled marijuana" is all the officer need include in his report to justify an afternoon - or much longer, of Bend Over. Make sure your monkey ass doesn't smell anything like a dank nugg - determining this may require an objective opinion from your climbing partner. Pick a devoted one for such trips. The only time we had our car raped at the border was when we innocently answered "skiing" as our reason for coming to Canada...just as we watched our buddies drive away in front of us - with all our skis on their rack. Guess what question the officer asked next? Regarding Jason4's post - border agents are trained to ask you the same question different ways to see if you screw up. Apparently, this technique backfired on the poor bastid.
  5. We did a little walking safari in Umfolozi Preserve (SA). Every night, somebody would ask "So, what are we eating?". The reply was always the same: "Roadkill". The Kruger NP gift shop offered elephant jerky for those seeking the 360 degree wildlife experience.
  6. JEALOUS. Always wanted to go there. Went to SA for a month and loved it. Anyway, great TR. Love the extraterrestrial shrubbery.
  7. Mushy until about 8000' still. I'd take flotation.
  8. Ironically, we ran into Cedar Wright on that route, as I recall.
  9. We rapped into a pile of poo and paper at the base of Zion's Moonlight Buttress. Having a brown out enroute is one thing, but ya couldn't squeeze those brownies out of the oven just a few feet over?
  10. No poo on Sherman yesterday! Just broken drive belts, spark plugs, Rockstar empties....
  11. US Immigration has a tremendous amount of power. They can and have set up checkpoints up to 100 miles within the US border. 4th Amendment be damned, that's 'legal'. They can search your electronic devices - and require you to login to do so. They currently have 45 agents on the Olympic Peninsula (with a total of 1 point of entry) and like to hang out in church parking lots so they can ask people coming out of Spanish masses for their papers. "Who wants a trip to Mexico today?" (yes, that is an affidavit quote). They've harassed the local community so badly with such racial profiling that even local law enforcement is complaining. Ironically, native Americans get some of the worst of it - hey, they look like Mexicans, right? Canadian Immigration probably has similar, relatively unchecked powers. Assume otherwise at your peril.
  12. One must admire the sheer will of that.
  13. Trip: Sherman - Squak Glacier Date: 6/6/2013 Trip Report: Pretty much had the mountain to myself yesterday - one snowmobiler passed by, and I spied a snowboarder and a telemarker coming descending from about a mile away while on the summit. An Alpine Ascents class was parked in the far distance above the Railroad Grade, visible only as a dotted collection of tents. No crevasses to speak of. Skiing to and off the summit is straightforward. Snow below about 8000' is still mushy, grabby and easily sloughs on steeper, east facing slopes, of which there are few and not necessarily part of the route. I cut them on the way down to check it out. FS 13 is clear of snow except for the last several hundred yards. Zero traffic on the I5 Skagit bypass in Mt. Vernon on the way up - about a 15 minute delay on the way back at around 4:30 pm. Not too bad. Overall, a mellow trip.
  14. That's not good advice. Border rules change all the time. It's quite possible these days that your record is still accessible by Canadian Customs. Contact Canadian customs and ask them directly. You may well have to pay a fee to get in. Or not get in at all. Or everything will be just fine. Ask. This is not the place to get a specific answer to your particular case.
  15. Yes, Doctor.
  16. IT IS MY DESTINY I'd troll for a partner for Lincoln, too, but why do that to a friend?
  17. REI's old policy helped create a throw away mentality. A $25 sewing machine, some Tenacious Tape, Shoe Goo, and a little hand stitching go a long way to extending gear life. This used to be standard procedure for most climbers. The ability to fix stuff comes in even handier today with the new light weight gear, which tends to begin the pilgrimage to Holy Land soon after purchase. That, and I've always wondered why Bacon Bars never made a comeback.
  18. It is an ancient dance best performed in long skinny shoes and ironic trucker hats performed to piss off the Gods of Employment. The Squak affords the opportunity to witness the Snowmobile Dance, whereby expensive mechanical war ponies are sacrificed to the Crevasse Gods. But hey, if religion isn't your thing...
  19. I think you should ski Sherman with me instead, no?
  20. Meh. I prefer explosives.
  21. In mu experience, adhesive delam happens from too much heat campfires, hot cars, or that time I tried to bake the Snoseal into my Snowfields and Dave Page had to yell at me for it.
  22. I think most of us buy stuff because it's price/performance fits our needs and we are willing to support the company that sells it. All modern retailers have decent return policies. A ridiculously generous return policy might be the primary consideration for a scammer, impulse buyer, or a moron who just shotguns their purchase decisions without any research., but most folks are just fine with having a full year to figure things out.
  23. Non profit advocacy organizations are nearly always involved in policy making somehow - that's kind of what they do. They are a very important way for citizens to actively participate in our democracy.
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