lazyalpinist

Crampons sold. Three OP screws and one BD screw left.

Crash pad sold. Taking reasonable offers on other gear.

Bump. All items still available.

Used screws 3 - Omega Pacific 22cm, used 3-4 seasons: $25 each 2 - Black Diamond Express 19cm, used 3-4 seasons: $35 each 1 - Petzl Laser Sonic 17cm, used one season: $35 One Metolius Crash Pad Never used. Not sure what model, Bailout? $100 Cassin Crampons, steel step in, New in box: $15 OR Advanced Bivy. Purchased a few years ago when the repiration positive fabric came out. Blue color, just like on OR's website. New, never opened: $200 Items located in Seattle. PM me for best results. [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/medium/IMG_7513.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/medium/IMG_77191.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/medium/IMG_7509.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/medium/IMG_7523.JPG[/img]

Hippy herbal shop: http://dandelionbotanical.com/ They helped my bro-in-law with late stage Lyme. They might be able to steer you to some docs who can help in the Seattle area. My BIL is on the East Coast where the medical establishment consider you cured after one month of IV antibiotics. He recently got a new doc who is trying to fight the collateral infections. PM me if you need more info.

I'm no rock star, but use a sling on multi pitch and alpine. When closer to my limit, it will be a Metolius multi looped sling. When not near my limit, a nylon single. Although may depend on approach and packing limitations. I have used a system where both climbers wear a sling while swapping leads and the 2nd racks onto their sling, taking the remainder of the rack off the leader when arriving at the belay. Leader keeps their sling and racks onto it while following the next pitch. Works well when partners are large male/small female but it means an extra sling to bring. On single pitch cragging, I may just rack onto the harness, but I find that cumbersome as cams like to catch on my pants, inhibiting movement. When using a sling, it is draws on both sides of the harness and pro on the sling. On ice, it is pro on harness. Well, usually screws on clippers on the pack hip belt and draws on harness. If I'm not wearing a pack then clippers and draws are on the harness. I think mostly due to the clippers, I find it easy to drop screws, especially in deep snow. I did have a piece fall off a sling once. Still not sure why it happened, but I was moving past a bush which may have caused the piece to become unattached.

Gently used 5.10 Altia high tops. Size 47 (US13) Always worn with socks. Rubber in good shape, but the left shoe could use a new lace. $50 [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/medium/IMG_2515.JPG[/img] [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/516/medium/IMG_2516.JPG[/img]

I'm not exactly an expert, but I wanted to give you a response before your post got lost. So a little bump won't hurt you. I can't speak for tele boots, but I find modern AT boots fine to walk in, especially on snow. I have booted at least 6000' in a day with them and was comfortable. However, due to lack of lateral ankle flex, I don't feel they crampon well unless you are front pointing. As far as leaving the skis on all the time? Well, depends on the objective. If there is rock climbing, I'll take the skis off. Steep couloir? Skis are on the pack on the way up, on the feet on the way down. Certain ice sections and awkward ridge tops I'll take the skis off as well, depending on what I think will be faster/safer. But in general, if the skinning/skiing is going well and is fun, why take them off? Skiing in climbing boots? Plenty of people do it. IMO this is where the objective comes into play. Going out to climb something like ice or rock and don't want to climb in ski boots? The skiing isn't the objective and perhaps is fairly level? Then I may go with a mountain boot setup to increase fun on the ice/rock/mixed and the skis are just a travel tool at that point. If ski fun is the objective and you may never take them off, then you'd probably want a ski boot setup. As far as carrying a second pair of footwear, depends on the objective and comfort level. I am not too comfortable climbing 5th class rock in AT boots. (I would imagine that the duck toe on tele boots makes them more awkward on rock.) So if I have more than one pitch of 5th class rock to climb after a ski in, I prefer to bring footwear appropriate to the climbing. I also find low angle 2nd/3rd class rock fairly clumsy with AT boots on. (For me they work better on steeper rock.) So I may also bring different footwear to speed things up if there is a lot of that terrain as well. I think in general it will depend on you and what you feel comfortable with. If rock climbing in mountain boots or rock shoes is more comfortable/fun, and you don't mind the weight in your pack on the ski in/out then why not pack them? But if you want to go light and don't want extra weight in your pack, leave the mountain boots at home.

Appears you are the one not following... Otherwise you could have read this: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/998140/Re_Vaccine_Autism_Link_Deliber#Post998140 It would have saved you from reposting the CDC's adult recommendation for Pertussis. As for your inability to understand the math, that was my typo. (You'll see similar non-typo numbers in the post above.) It should have read: So since the vaccine is at best 90% effective (CDC/WHO) and diminishes over time, I'd say the easy math says that at least 10% of the US population that has been properly vaccinated for Pertussis is NOT immune. Hence the call for a booster. But hopefully you realized that.

In a gross and obvious conflict of interest, Wakefield received nearly $700K from a law firm intending to file lawsuits linking vaccination with autism using the results of Wakefield's study, which could not be replicated. Damning enough evidence for the UK to revoke his license. Smear campaign? When he tried to sue his journalist detractors for libel, he lost. I rest my case. Resting your case to agree with me? You really don't read do you? Once more with feeling: I have not argued that Wakefield did not fraud the public. This is old news. (Nearly as old as his "report") What you appear to overlook is that he was NOT anti vaccine. HE was specifically anti the MMR vaccine and recommended getting the vaccines for Measles, Mumps and Rubella as separate vaccinations.

Still personal risk. True it may spread, but we're still talking hypothetical and percentages here, and not absolutes. And an adolescent or adult without a booster is also likely to spread the disease. While I admit the 1% chance of infant death upon contracting Pertussis is much greater than an infant's chance of death in an automobile collision, it does not take into account the possibility of contracting that disease, which would reduce the overall chance of death by Pertussis to less than 1%. Thanks for helping prove my point. They are all controllable subjective hazards to a degree, just like contracting Pertussis. Easist way to control the subjective hazard is to get the vaccine and boosters, for everyone in the family. Easiest way to control not getting hit by a car while towing your your toddler behind your bike: not riding the bike. Of course, not riding a bike reduces your chances of getting hit by a car while riding your bike to zero. Getting vaccinated for Pertussis does not reduce your child's chances of death from Pertussis to zero. Can you prove this with a fact? Most adults I know interact with 20-40 people a day, and that may only be the bus ride to work. Most children I know (below school age, when most at risk of death) interact with 2-12 people a day. Plenty of adults work in schools, and in retail, and in bars, not to mention ride elevators and fly in planes with other adults. I never argued that a vaccine didn't reduce morbidity. Your zealousness made you interpret my comments as such. At least with Pertussis, we are being hypothetical. No where can I find data stating that people who are not vaccinated cause Pertussis outbreaks. The best I could find was that most outbreaks occur in middle school or high school when the childhood vaccine wears off. Which to me means that not getting your booster as an adolescent or adult is just as bad as not giving the vaccine to an infant if you are worried about morbidity.

Wakefield had a scheme. The scheme was fraud. Wakefield was anti the combo MMR vaccine. Wakefield was NOT anti vaccine. The connection to anti vaccine and Wakefield is made by internet zealots, apparently on both ends of this argument.

And where did I say avoid vaccines? You might remember, that I was the first to advocate on this thread for boosters: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/996882/Re_Vaccine_Autism_Link_Deliber#Post996882

Then by that statement, you too are negligent for not having a booster. Unless of course, you never come in contact with children. And while we're at it, your statement is particularly interesting coming from a climber. It is all about acceptable risk, and one could easily insert any of these statements which increase a child's risk of illness/injury/death: "Parents who keep a gun in the house are negligent." "Parents who allow their kids to eat beef are negligent." "Parents who feed their kids prepacked salad are negligent." "Parents who take their kids on bike rides are negligent." "Parents who subject their kids to a 1 in 3000 chance of seizure are negligent." Oh wait, that last one is what you do getting your kid vaccinated. Fact: Just because you are not immune to a disease does not mean you are going to contract it.

Thanks for agreeing with me.

Once again, a little math: Pertussis vaccine is at best 90% effective. (CDC/WHO) Pertussis vaccine loses efficacy over time (CDC/WHO) So there is at least a 10% chance that you are not immune and could catch it. It also means that 1 in 10 children you come in contact with (higher if you consider that the vaccine may be only 85% effective, and that infants under 6 months are too young for the vaccine) are not immune. You could catch it and spread it to them, at Safeway for instance, increasing their chances of death. So when you make comments like this: it makes you sound uninformed.

Nice, bringing it back to the beginning. The fraud is old news. IIRC in Wakefield's defense, he did not advocate getting no vaccines, but recommended getting Measles, Mumps and Rubella vaccines separately. Also if I recall, part of his whole scheme was to make money on the individual vaccines. So in reality because zealots misinterpreted his recommendations he is to blame?

Can't read? This quote from the CDC from one of Kimmo's links: That’s because the pertussis vaccine loses 15 percent of its effectiveness after the first five years, and drops even moreafter 10 years that it's necessary to get a booster. So since the vaccine is at best 90% effective (CDC/WHO) and diminishes over time, I'd say the easy math says that at least 90% of the US population that has been properly vaccinated for Pertussis is NOT immune. Hence the call for a booster. Of course, if you don't have contact with infants, (You know, you don't have any at home or you don't go out in public.) then you won't be risking infecting anyone else. Of course if you don't go out in public you won't risk getting it either.

That statement showss you probably don't follow the recommendations by the CDC for the Td booster. (A timespan between boosters > ten years.) See this: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/998140 /Re_Vaccine_Autism_Link_Deliber#Post998140 And I don't recall who brought up shingles, but the CDC only recommends the vaccine to the over 60 crowd. So don't see how that has anything to do with childhood vaccines. But I guess if you are so rabid about vaccines (side note, they have a vaccine for rabies too!) then you may have got your shingles vaccine earlier than your membership to AARP.

Don't have any experience with the Serrano. But the Igniter is too heavy for your intended use as a fleece. The EB folks tell you it is what RMI uses on Rainier in the summer. But probably as an in camp jacket. I have one, and use it in camp. Related to your request, I do have a MEC Uplink. (Think Nano Puff) I think it would be feasible to think this might act as a midlayer in winter. Although I doubt it breaths as well as a fleece. Looks like the Serrano is heavier than the Nano, so I don't see it working to your needs. Although everyone is different. Also, the FA stuff coming in tall sizes is awesome.

Thanks. And my data points: My ice setup is G12 semi with Trango Extreme 45.5. With the boot not on my foot and the strap not fastened I have zero play in the crampon-boot interface. If I was to put the boot on and strap it up and climb some ice I know that I will have some play. Possibly more so as I climb a pitch. With the semis I find myself tightening the strap often to keep fit tight. Just for data I put my wife's Petzl Vasak Spirlock on my Trango Extreme. All fastened up and not on my foot resulted in play. Too much for my taste, although in the past I have climbed mild glacial ice with these crampons and the softer Trango GTX boots.

So is it a boot or a crampon issue? Seems to me that if you buy a ski boot it fits a ski binding because the whole thing is standardized. Of course, pretty hard to standardize hiking/climbing boots being that people got different feet and boots are used for different purposes. And we can't all be clunking around in a standardized plastic double climbing boot with a moldable inner lining. So my understanding of the dilemma is that crampon manufacturers make "one size fits most" which we all know means they don't fit many boots perfectly. A partial solution would be that any given crampon manufacturer makes multiple toe bails etc. So you can buy a Sabretooth with a narrow bail suited for a Trango, or a wider bail for suited for an Inverno. Another issue is width of the crampon. I don't own as many sets as you do Dane, so I don't have a lot of data. But most have a general width. I have seen some that flat out cannot fit small women's boots, and some that have too narrow of tabs to work on larger mens boots. Does this sell more crampons? Dunno, but my guess is if you are a woman who wears a size 36 Trango you are not buying the versions that are too wide. And I know I don't buy crampons where the narrow tabs cause unnatural fit on my 45.5 boots.

This is from the US CDC, so things might be better in Canada: pertussis vaccine efficacy range from 80% to 85% Meaning 15-20% of vaccinated kids grow up to be unprotected adults. So your comment is wrong at least 15% of the time for Pertussis. Also due to the fact that the efficacy of the vaccine for Pertussis wears off, the CDC has this to say to adults that have had the vaccine: Adults who are 19 through 64 years old are recommended to get a 1-time dose of Tdap in place of the Td booster they’re recommended to receive every 10 years. No need to wait until you are due for your Td booster—the dose of Tdap can be given earlier than the 10-year mark since the last Td booster. It's a good idea for adults to talk to a healthcare provider about what's best for their specific situation. A quick scan of other childhood vaccines shows efficacy around 90% with MMR running from 94-98% depending on which of the three you are talking about. (Polio is the big winner with 99% assuming you get all three shots. Pneumococcal the big loser at 60-70% and also the biggest killer of the vaccine preventable diseases in the US.)So it appears at least in the US that roughly 2% of all vaccinated children grow up to be unprotected adults.

Fact: Vaccines are not 100% safe. Fact: Vaccines don't work 100% of the time. Fact: Many vaccines lose effectiveness over time If you are an adult and pro vaccine and have not been given a pertussis booster in the last 10 years, then get down to your PCP or you are a hypocrite.

They've had this going for a few years now. I got a couple a few years ago, but the BOGO restrictions didn't make it very valuable. And I never cashed in on it. It used to be only for Stevens, but now they've expanded. Look at the option for Snoqualmie, only on Monday does the voucher work. (When Alpental is closed.)