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Everything posted by Tom_Sjolseth
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[TR] Mount Torment - Moraine Lake Couloir, NW Glacier 04/16/2022
Tom_Sjolseth replied to geosean's topic in North Cascades
Nice one. I'm surprised this doesn't get done more. That ski down from just below the summit of Torment was great. I'm sad we missed the couloir to Moraine Lake but that would have added another couple thousand vert and we were satisfied with what we had. I believe we skinned up through the step. It looked steeper than it was. The crux is transitioning from the couloir to the glacier, which I don't think we even had rope to protect. I remember it feeling a little spicy. EDIT: We actually did have rope, I just checked the photos. We didn't end up using it though. -
I was just thinking about this thread (from 14 years ago) the other day. I bet the summit chaser feels like a real idiot now. RIP Marc Andre.
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Excellent photos. The views from N Despair with the Pickets laid out in a panorama are some of the most scenic views I think you'll find in the range. I don't think there's an easy way up Crowder from Pickell Pass. The other way I've descended in the past was a better descent, but would be a more difficult climb. Another remarkable Roger Jung solo excursion. Thanks for the memories.
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When I lived in Everett, I used to lap Teneriffe's Kamikaze Falls. It's about 3.4 miles and 3700' gain one way. Just after my 37th birthday I did it 4 times in a row for nearly 15k' gain and 28 miles in about 10.5 hours. Not sure where else you can get that kind of gain that quickly, and it's an interesting hike.
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Cascade River Road open to it's end!!
Tom_Sjolseth replied to NCNP Rangers's topic in North Cascades
Should you update your blog to reflect that it's open? As of July 3rd, it still has a closure alert and says the road is gated at milepost 21. -
Great photos as usual. I have been wondering what impact the fire had on that route. Your trip looks quite different than the one I did up there in January of 2010. I missed the view that time, so I went back up a few years later. Amazing viewpoint.
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Agree with Kurt. This year is a different beast with the late spring and lots of snow still lingering up there (it probably got quite a bit last night). I'd give it another few weeks or so, then it'll resemble May conditions in normal years.
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We climbed the SE summit which is the highest point on Icy Peak. It was really straight forward, blocky climbing with ample holds.
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More info here. My notes (and memory) say a short section of 4th class. I remember it feeling very straightforward and secure.
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Wow, that is fat. I don't think I've ever seen the runnels that stacked.
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[TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016
Tom_Sjolseth replied to Matt_Alford's topic in North Cascades
Lunger, I'd climb it again. -
[TR] Johannesberg - NE Rib 1951 8/26/2016
Tom_Sjolseth replied to Matt_Alford's topic in North Cascades
Blue collar is right. It feels like a different route every time I climb it. Is the summit register still up there? -
first ascent [TR] Hozomeen Mtn, South Pk - North Face, IV+ 5.9
Tom_Sjolseth replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
Strong work yet again from the Jedi masters of craptastic and vertical choss. I remember looking down on that face thinking "yikes". -
The Black Warrior Mine is located in upper Horseshoe Basin. You can still see the steel rails for the mine cars and some mining artifacts. Giant steel cables that used to hold the ski-lift style tram cars can be found linking the upper and lower basins. See here.
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These photos were taken June 9, 2013 from Nooksack Tower. It certainly looks climbable to me. I'm not sure what the fascination with that route is though, seems dangerous for what you get.
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It's getting to be that time of year again when the rain begins to fall and the winds begin to blow. That can only mean one thing - the Bulger Party! This year's Bulger Party will be held Saturday November 7th at the Mountaineer's Clubhouse in Sandpoint. Flyer attached. If you know anyone who has finished the Bulger list this year, please e-mail the Bulger committee (e-mail address is listed on the flyer) and let them know. I hope to see you all there.
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That was in 2008. Sean waited for me at the pass below.
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[TR] Mesahchie Peak / Ice Fall Coloir (PICS!)
Tom_Sjolseth replied to Gaucho Argentino's topic in North Cascades
Taken on 8/1/15 -
Nice, another Pickets strike! Nice work in relatively late season (this year). Phantom was definitely one of the neater summits I've climbed. Although, I had a little different view than you guys did... I topped out in a fine mist with zero visibility all alone. It felt pretty remote!
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Not in favor for many reasons. I don't think it will happen either.
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[TR] Johannesburg - '57 NE Rib 7/4/2015
Tom_Sjolseth replied to ptownclimber's topic in North Cascades
On that climb with Steph, we started too high and got into some funky terrain right from the start. On successive climbs, I have always started about 100' higher than you did (in this photo). At any rate, nice work on an interesting route. -
[TR] Johannesburg - '57 NE Rib 7/4/2015
Tom_Sjolseth replied to ptownclimber's topic in North Cascades
A character-builder. Nice work. "After a couple hours of tedious, hot, dry, 5th class bushwhacking, Chris peered over through a break in the trees: “hey look, it’s the start of the ’51 route.”" I'm a bit confused how, after a couple of hours of climbing, you looked over and saw the start of the 1951 route. The two routes start in almost the same place - in fact, Beckey says the 1957 route actually starts higher up the C-J Couloir than the 1951 Rib. Is it possible you started way too low on the 1957, or am I misreading that? I've always started the route at ~3900'. Beckey says to get on at 4400' for the 1951 Rib, and 1000' up the C-J Couloir (which would be 4500' - which doesn't make sense) for the 1957 Rib. I'm fairly positive both ribs can be fairly easily accessed from the same ramp at ~3900', about 400' up the CJ Couloir from the river crossing.