sir_vent

That rock picture looks totally rad.

I went up to the SGC with Pochi and met up with Brian M and Matt. We waited out in the tent all sunday and monday it was bluebird, but there was ~4 ft of sugar snow and we stopped at the base of the couloir after a couple hours of wallowing. We went pretty heavy, intending to wait out the storm sunday. The NE face of stuart looks awesome right now!

I have a bunch of time off now, and a lot of great ideas for climbs, from alpine to aid routes. PM me if you're lookin to get out! BEn

pm sent

Heh I remember that cornice, going left in that picture was not a good choice.

I bought some climbax cams, pretty cheap, from pagan gear and on the third use I snapped a trigger wire french freeing, pretty sure that AINT supposed to happen. Also the climbax cams rusted up on my within a year of minimal to normal use, while my old #1 camalot is going stronger than ever and is so much easier to place. The climbax cams have this weird twisting action when you try to place them. Overall even being the big ass cheapo that I am, I wouldnt buy them again.

Hey folks, been browsing this board for a year or 2 and getting comfortable on alpine in the cascades, then I got this summer internship in cali, 3 hrs from the valley! So I'm stoked to get into big wall climbing and wondering if anyone on this board would be interested in joining up. I'm teaching myself and happy to climb with someone who's also new and has ambition.

Right on Mike and Jason, you guys make a wicked alpine team and sounds like a classic adventure with plenty of unknown but a pretty good outcome. Those are my favorite. Ben

I just moved to Livermore, hoping to do some routes in Yosemite and more routes outside the park, such as in the Palisades, Mt Whitney, around kings canyon, etc. Anyone else going to be in Cali for the summer?

Anyone heading down to rainier this week and want to split gas?

Planning a trip to ski in a ways and climb something in the grade II-III and up to 5.9 range. Never been up there so kind of an exploratory trip. Still looking for a partner. Have rack, car, experience.

Hi folks, I'm planning to ski up the Quien Sabe on sahale tomorrow, my other thought was to do the W ridge of stuart. I dont have to be back till tuesday night. I was planning to go solo for lack of partner and thought I might as well post to see if theres anyone who'd like to join me and share gas. If so DONT RESPOND HERE, because I wont have access to internet, but call my cell at 206-229-7017. Other trip ideas welcome. Ben

Hey, Still new to the back country thing. So weather reports seem to indicate snow above ~6000. Is this a dangerous time to ski? Is it still possible to have a decent ski up cascade pass to sahale right now? Thanks a bunch! Ben

I thoroughly enjoyed hiking up it twice, the second time I used it as a morning workout (car to summit in 3.5 hrs) and was home for lunch with my girl at 2. The views are great and the sand helps your knees on the way down.

If you go after shuksan, its in good shape for skiing right now which I think is the way to go on such a long, low angle glacier http://uw.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=15688

While scott and dave were cruisin up the TC, a couple of us UW folks were digging through cornices. full TR: http://uw.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/view...asc&start=0

Awesome job! We were watching you guys enter TC as we made our way up to the NEBC. So the ice was thick enough that you didnt have dry tool 5.8? Sounds like TC was a good choice, We had to deal with a nasty cornice.

u have ? I've got most weekends off.

Nice job fellas! I was on the N face about a month ago and it was all snow, but I was on the left side of the face, did you guys do a more direct variation or something? http://students.washington.edu/benlong/pictures/ShuksanNFace/DSCN1859.JPG

Finding myself without a partner too often so here goes: I've got one season of experience. About 25 routes in the cascades, one or two at smith and 3 in Yosemite, I usually will lead trad to 5.9, WI/AI 3. I did the basic mounties gig last year to get over the experience catch 22. I'd like to do : summer rock such as W ridge or S face Prusik, stuart north ridge, forbidden W ridge, dragontail serpentine, etc. Other alpine such as redoubt, baker N ridge, shuksan N face or Nooksack glacier, slesse etc. I really want to do a trip or 3 to the bugaboos (never been). I may or may not have a car this summer but if it comes down to it I can probably acquire one. I have a tendancy to push for the summit sometimes but generally like to be safe. I dont like loud music on car rides or gutter talk or drugs (just sayin if you do thats cool but we wont mesh.) lastly, I like to move fast on things like uphill approaches. I'd say I'm in good shape (stuart cascadian car to summit in 3.5 hours). I'm not saying you gotta be superman, but I'm tired of climbing with people who arent in good enough shape for the objective at hand. Just know your limits. If interested email ben long at u dot washington dot edu

Finding myself without a partner too often so here goes: I've got one season of experience. About 25 routes in the cascades, one or two at smith and 3 in Yosemite, I usually will lead trad to 5.9, WI/AI 3. I did the basic mounties gig last year to get over the experience catch 22. I'd like to do : summer rock such as W ridge or S face Prusik, stuart north ridge, forbidden W ridge, dragontail serpentine, etc. Other alpine such as redoubt, baker N ridge, shuksan N face or Nooksack glacier, slesse etc. I really want to do a trip or 3 to the bugaboos (never been). I may or may not have a car this summer but if it comes down to it I can probably acquire one. I have a tendancy to push for the summit sometimes but generally like to be safe. I dont like loud music on car rides or gutter talk or drugs (just sayin if you do thats cool but we wont mesh.) lastly, I like to move fast on things like uphill approaches. I'd say I'm in good shape (stuart cascadian car to summit in 3.5 hours). I'm not saying you gotta be superman, but I'm tired of climbing with people who arent in good enough shape for the objective at hand. Just know your limits. If interested email ben long at u dot washington dot edu oops I wanted to put this in the main forum.

thanks Alasdair! Yeah I bailed on some friends for Rainier when I inventoried my warm weather clothing, I'm pretty sure I dont have the gear for -30 deg not including wind chill! Has anyone tried skiing hiway 20 all the way in to the liberty massif?? Alasdair do you still need a partner?

I'm in the same boat.

I've got sat-mon free and some things in mind.

My first winter of climbing so I'm not sure what I'm getting into. If anyone is browsing here and has some more experience, what do you think of these routes as objectives for this weekend? I'm concerned with no experience in -30 degree weather on rainier, never having trekked up hwy 20 when closed (avys?), and not solid on mixed terrain. Cutthroat E face couloir. Stuart Glacier Couloir. Whitehorse snow gulch (probably will have some nice Ice!) Shuksan N face or Price galcier (done recently by some folks) Nisqually Icefall or Ingraham Direct on Rainier (-30 degrees!) N face observation rock (on rainier) Triple Couloirs on Dragontail (too dry?) Big Four (face route looks wild) Colonial Del Campo Or should I just head to leavinworth to check out the water Ice like "the pencil" ? Thanks yall.