sir_vent

Nice job fellas! I was on the N face about a month ago and it was all snow, but I was on the left side of the face, did you guys do a more direct variation or something? http://students.washington.edu/benlong/pictures/ShuksanNFace/DSCN1859.JPG

Finding myself without a partner too often so here goes: I've got one season of experience. About 25 routes in the cascades, one or two at smith and 3 in Yosemite, I usually will lead trad to 5.9, WI/AI 3. I did the basic mounties gig last year to get over the experience catch 22. I'd like to do : summer rock such as W ridge or S face Prusik, stuart north ridge, forbidden W ridge, dragontail serpentine, etc. Other alpine such as redoubt, baker N ridge, shuksan N face or Nooksack glacier, slesse etc. I really want to do a trip or 3 to the bugaboos (never been). I may or may not have a car this summer but if it comes down to it I can probably acquire one. I have a tendancy to push for the summit sometimes but generally like to be safe. I dont like loud music on car rides or gutter talk or drugs (just sayin if you do thats cool but we wont mesh.) lastly, I like to move fast on things like uphill approaches. I'd say I'm in good shape (stuart cascadian car to summit in 3.5 hours). I'm not saying you gotta be superman, but I'm tired of climbing with people who arent in good enough shape for the objective at hand. Just know your limits. If interested email ben long at u dot washington dot edu

Finding myself without a partner too often so here goes: I've got one season of experience. About 25 routes in the cascades, one or two at smith and 3 in Yosemite, I usually will lead trad to 5.9, WI/AI 3. I did the basic mounties gig last year to get over the experience catch 22. I'd like to do : summer rock such as W ridge or S face Prusik, stuart north ridge, forbidden W ridge, dragontail serpentine, etc. Other alpine such as redoubt, baker N ridge, shuksan N face or Nooksack glacier, slesse etc. I really want to do a trip or 3 to the bugaboos (never been). I may or may not have a car this summer but if it comes down to it I can probably acquire one. I have a tendancy to push for the summit sometimes but generally like to be safe. I dont like loud music on car rides or gutter talk or drugs (just sayin if you do thats cool but we wont mesh.) lastly, I like to move fast on things like uphill approaches. I'd say I'm in good shape (stuart cascadian car to summit in 3.5 hours). I'm not saying you gotta be superman, but I'm tired of climbing with people who arent in good enough shape for the objective at hand. Just know your limits. If interested email ben long at u dot washington dot edu oops I wanted to put this in the main forum.

email ben long at u dot washington dot edu. looking for <=150$

thanks Alasdair! Yeah I bailed on some friends for Rainier when I inventoried my warm weather clothing, I'm pretty sure I dont have the gear for -30 deg not including wind chill! Has anyone tried skiing hiway 20 all the way in to the liberty massif?? Alasdair do you still need a partner?

I'm in the same boat.

I've got sat-mon free and some things in mind.

My first winter of climbing so I'm not sure what I'm getting into. If anyone is browsing here and has some more experience, what do you think of these routes as objectives for this weekend? I'm concerned with no experience in -30 degree weather on rainier, never having trekked up hwy 20 when closed (avys?), and not solid on mixed terrain. Cutthroat E face couloir. Stuart Glacier Couloir. Whitehorse snow gulch (probably will have some nice Ice!) Shuksan N face or Price galcier (done recently by some folks) Nisqually Icefall or Ingraham Direct on Rainier (-30 degrees!) N face observation rock (on rainier) Triple Couloirs on Dragontail (too dry?) Big Four (face route looks wild) Colonial Del Campo Or should I just head to leavinworth to check out the water Ice like "the pencil" ? Thanks yall.

I'd like to ski in a ways to try the East face couloir on Cutthroat (there are also plenty of backup peaks in that area in case. Or the stuart glacier couloir? I also wonder how the snow gulch on whitehorse looks right now.

John I'm game.

yeah I emailed him, I'm planning to go with them.

I know, it sucks balls, I was all excited for the weekend, weather and all, then the day after I posted I sprained my wrist and got a nasty sore throat. Next week I have final exams and they finish on thursday so starting friday I should be ready to get out.

cool, I'm still sick and spending most of today and probably tomorrow . It'll be good to get yer beta tho!

Chris, I'm sure you know this already, but I tried the snowgulch route and it was misreable with not enough snow, you'll probably be able to tell from Darrington. I wouldnt go up it unless it had a good couple feet. However I saw some nice blue ice near the top and climbers right of the summit, probably thats what your headed for.

looking for something cheap and functional to fit silveretta 404s. I'm around seattle.

I'm in Seattle.

I did tons of climbs this summer, and I can't wait to get some winter experience. I have a break and I'd like to attempt Rainier, maybe baker and Shuksan. I also have some b/c ski's I want to try out. I know a lot of stuff is not easily accessible, etc so I'm open to suggestions. I don't neccessarily care what I climb or whether I summit as long as I'm getting out this office and into the mountains. PM me. Ben

I bought a set of these. At 13,700 ft on the swiss arete of mt sill, I pulled on the blue size and one of the trigger wires snapped! The cam was pretty much new with no falls at all, and had been placed about 4 times previously.

are the weights "free" or or they "free weights" for a price?

I was 3 hrs car to summit 1 hr on summit and 2.5 hours back. Took the cascadian. I can't imagine doing the complete N ridge in such a time but I guess if your good on the rock and dont bother with gear it could be done.

I'll buy the 1.5 to 2.5

I was eyeing this route while on the coleman-deming and while climbing around on the coleman seracs. Does anyone know if the route is possible right now? Thanks.

we did the NE face a few weekends ago, it felt pretty contrived because you go up the standard E ridge and then traverse out of your way above the schrund to some very moderate alpine ice/slush that leads back to the regular route. We could've left our tools at home.

glacier ice with a summit is what's fun to me!

I've cut my teeth on the stuart ice cliff and the Kautz. I was eyeing the coleman headwall but that looks like a bit more than I'm ready for and I just went up baker this year. Was also eyeing the nisqually icefall but again, that looks pretty serious. Was hoping to do some ice on eldorado but am hearing that there isnt any ice there right now, so: does anyone know any moderate ice routes that lead to summits and are in now?