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scheissami

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Everything posted by scheissami

  1. Looks like you don't need an MLU if you're carrying a GPS, huh? Mandated equipment is lame but at least you don't need the MLU if you've got other options. Course, I don't have a GPS and can't afford one. Sucky.
  2. Over $20,000 raised last night! ($50k total!!!) Hope everyone had fun...
  3. Don't forget, this may represent a chance for CLIMBERS to voice their opinions to the media directly; it's a small chance, I know, but maybe our message won't be distorted.
  4. If you watched the show then you'll appreciate that they didn't have time to say much of anything, other than to briefly explain what happened and thank the rescue organizations. It is an undeniable fact that the media attention has added impetus to passing the measure. However, I do feel they're doing the best they can to repay the groups that helped them. I suppose they could have just said "thanks" and left it at that; they're trying to do more, which has unfortunately equated with more media attention. If I remember correctly, most of this legislative talk began with the 3 climbers lost on the NF this winter--while it has certainly gained momentum, it is unjust to place all of the blame on the recent group. Ultimately, it's the lawmakers who are trying to pass this measure--people who don't understand the pursuit for which they're passing legislation. You're correct; you can give your support without attending the fundraiser in the form of donations to the rescue organizations and by writing your legal representatives. Of course, you can also show your support by physically showing up and thanking PMR, as well as fostering a sense of unity within the community--even (and especially!) if you have a dispute with some of the individuals or how things have panned out. I understand the comment about the "feel-good" cause and the negative connotations that the label has; however, I think it will "feel-good" to show my support, meet some local climbers, and have a beer. I'll even buy you a beer and chat about this kinda stuff--maybe we can come up with a constructive way to fight all the BS legislation. -erik
  5. The purpose of the fundraiser is to repay the groups that helped rescue them, not for self-aggrandizement nor to advocate for legislature requiring MLUs. The hype revolving around the use of the beacons is a consequence of the media's sensationalism and lack of understanding about climbing; I don't think any of the group would support mandating the MLUs. Coming to the fundraiser will allow you to (politely) voice your opinions and support the groups that oppose the legislation in the way that ultimately matters the most--with your wallet.
  6. Dude, glad you're okay! Usually people have some sort of risk factor for skin infection (wound, diabetes, IV drug use) but not always. Sometimes people just have bad luck. Happy to hear you're improving...
  7. BUMP Hope to see some of you folks out Thursday night to support the rescue organizations.... The folks who've organized this have managed to get a bunch of stuff donated so the auctions should be worthwhile to check out. Oh, and the beer's good, too.
  8. Can't beat sausage and live Polka! I guess good beer makes everything seem okay...
  9. Thanks for a great trip! The first day was way suck, but luckily the forecasted weather window panned out for us. Here's a few pics from the trip: Colchuck from the north: At the base of the North Buttress Couloir: Stuart was looking pretty fantastic; this is the view from the col at the top of the initial couloir: fheimerd on the summit, with Dragonatail ridge in the background: Sweet turns down to the lake: Very fun route; I think the most interesting climbing began after topping the initial couloir and traversing onto the NW face. fheimerd pulled off some heady mixed climbing just below the summit which made the climb seem much more technical. I'd be interested to try the NE buttress couloir next time around...seemed a little narrower from the base with maybe more predeliction to mixed climbing? I dunno but in any case had a great day out. Descent notes: Fantastic German beer and food at Uli's basement restaraunt (below Mozart's Cafe) in Leavenworth; decent, authentic Kraut food is not to be missed (mmm, Spaten on tap ) though I was falling asleep during the meal.
  10. Potentially a good place to voice your dissent about the MLUs.... Oh, and drink yummy beer!
  11. The money was donated to the animal hospital, not toward's Velvet's bill. Yes, it sucks that the vet got the money and not Christina, but this seems indicative of our approach to healthcare. Corporate sponsors donating cash so they can sell more crap (in this case, I think it's micro chips for pooches).
  12. I weigh 140 dripping wet, and as I mentioned, don't ski....so I got the shortest ones they had, the 159s. Very forgiving, and I'm not worried about "growing" out of them, as I'm also hoping to get onto an AT setup next year (if I can swing the cash). So now I have skis that are shorter than my snowboard! WTF?
  13. I also am using the setup to learn to ski and think you'd be hard pressed to find a better deal. I got hand-me-down boots, cheap-ass poles, and had the bindings mounted professionally (so I wouldn't totally hack it)--the whole package cost me ~$160. I'm certainly not experienced enough to recommend equipment for your size; my two cents, though, is that 191's are hella long to learn on...
  14. P.S. You can check out Velvet's website for a firsthand account of the Hood rescue. Please be respectful.
  15. WHO: Everyone you know - For the entire family Thousands of dollars of items = Thousands of dollars to be raised! WHAT makes this even cooler: * Silent Auction and Raffle with items for all ages and breeds! * For this occasion, the Lucky Lab has brewed: "Black Velvet Oatmeal Porter" * Celebrity Guest M.C.: Matt Zaffino WHEN: Thursday March 29 6 - 9 PM Kids & Raffles 6 - Close Adults with ID WHERE: Lucky Labrador 1945 NW Quimby * NEW LOCATION * WHY: To support search and rescue organizations - Portland Mountain Rescue - Crag Rats - Corvallis Mountain Rescue - Eugene Mountain Rescue - Mt. Wave Communication --------------------------------------------------------------- Please check out all the info at www.missvelvet.net. If you'd like to make a donation to the fundraiser, you can do so via Velvet's website. Hope to see some of you there! Cheers, Erik
  16. Bump...
  17. Where are you from in Germany? Do you climb much back home or in nearby countries? I may be going to visit some family there and in Austria for several months next year and it would be rad to get an idea of some accessible alpine climbs. Unfortunately I'm busy on Sunday but have a fun trip. Cheers
  18. Not gonna make it today (sorry, homie)....maybe next week? Cheers
  19. Obviously a lot can change in two weeks, but here's some pics and a TR from our trip. At the time, the NE buttress was probably in better shape, but with the recent weather, the upper pitches of the N Face may have consolidated a bit more. Cheers...
  20. I'd be down unless there's exceptional new snow to ski on. I'll get back to you once I'm sure....
  21. Yeah, there was a thread I started cuz I was having the same difficulty with my Grivel AirTech pons: Though I tried using vise-grips and other fancy stuff, I actually ended up having to file away small portions of the flanged tips of the bail; I know they fit in somehow initially, but I was just unable to line up the bail with the slots in a way to get the damn thing out. I haven't had a problem with the bail's stability since adjusting the size.
  22. Anyone picked these up yet? Seems pretty sweet, with aggressive secondary teeth and a not-quite-monopoint setup. I'm looking for some crampons more suited for water-ice, rather than alpine type stuff; these seem the business. Your take?
  23. Check the other thread here
  24. fheimerd and I checked out Mist falls today; way fun but be sure to bring your raincoat!
  25. I was up at Snoqualmie yesterday to climb Chair; here's some photos of some ice in the valley. I apologize if I've misnamed the routes (never climbed these before). I think this was Kiddie Cliff; in any case, it was pretty close to the parking lot and on the west side of the valley. Bryant Buttress looked fat, though the slopes above were still pretty heavily loaded. Source Lake Line was beautiful; maybe one of you hardmen should climb it soon... Happy Trails!
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