scheissami

Snow conditions/stability? Thinking about heading up for some turns later this week... Cheers!

Newbie question here, but ClimbUp/SkiDown, how do you fix a pulled binding with steel wool? Is there some backcountry repair reference guide you've read? I'm a snowboarder slowly (and painfully) learning to ski in the backcountry and would appreciate the info... Cheers.

Are the MH Evo 2 and Tenshi fully seam sealed? As far as the attachable vestibules go, well, the BD firstlight has one and it kinda sucks when it's really windy. The gaps between the vestibule and tent let's wind and precip in, which kinda defeats the purpose. Thanks for all of the feedback so far...

Checked out some of the previous threads but many of them focused on bivies or were older. Anyone have the Nemo Tenshi or Mountain Hardware EV 2? I'm looking pretty closely at these two and wonder if someone's got firsthand experience with them. Will be using the tent for ski-touring and climbing. I want a vestibule and a tent that has guy-out points for high winds (I have a BD firstlight, which is rad, but it isn't as burly as what I'm looking for) Cheers!

Cheers!

I'm sorry if you've been through this before, but what is considered necessary by the county if they make it into a park? Do they really need to do more than grade an area and gravel for a parking lot, trash cans/waste disposal, signs, and maybe a toilet? The trails are already in pretty decent shape... 800k certainly seems like a lot of money. Where is it expected to go? Thanks for all of your hard work...Cheers.

Goon question: thumb hook... Tool into the hand with the planted tool, right? Pick towards the ice, or towards you? Sorry for the ignorance...

Do you guys use the same stuff for your ski edges between seasons? Or does it not really matter (it seems to come off after a few runs)?

Might be headed down Friday AM and returning Saturday evening. I'll PM you once I know for sure. -Erik

That is beyond whack

Nice loop you can do just before Ski Bowl on 26. There's a pullout with a bridge crossing a creek. This area accesses Tom, Dick, and Harry peaks. You can do a loop around the lake (I forget the name) and if you want some vertical can bag the peaks themselves. Not sure of the exact mileage. The peaks themselves are susceptible to potential avy but a good portion of the loop is in the woods. Also you can do some snowshoeing on Hood itself. Check out the Tilly Jane area. Not really that flat, though.

Howdy, Me and a buddy are heading out the gorge tomorrow. I'd also love to head out Wednesday. Feel free to give a call (404) 808-3468 if you're game. Cheers, Erik

No actual climbing in the pic, but this is one of my favorites: Stuart and Colchuck as seen from Dragontail: Lani on the West Ridge of Prusik:

Sick! I guess your toes held up okay....good enough to get third place, eh? Nice work!

Nick, Probably not up for a Rainier climb, but if you're heading up to Lillooet, definitely holler at me. I'll also have a ton of time off in January and February. Cheers, Erik

Sweet, thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for. Any recs on when to get out there? We were planning last week of April but I wonder if it'd maybe be a little warmer and pleasant in the beginning of May. From what I gather there will still be a ton of snow around.

Hoping to head down to Crater Lake this spring to tour around the park (about thirty miles, very moderate skiing). I poked around the park's website but didn't find any great information about the routes. Does anyone have the scoop on trail-guides or maps I can find online? Anyone done this tour? Cheers

Sadly, I'm lame and haven't climbed too much water ice. Have done a bit in the Gorge and some alpine ice (mostly snow/glacial stuff) with the shield biners. So, not a lot of milage but I haven't had any problems. FYI, the nose of the shield biner is pretty large, and I've had problems trying to clip them to old bolts--not sure if that will be an issue with screws, especially some of the older models.

Anybody wanna get out tomorrow, Thursday afternoon, or anytime during the day on Friday?

Dude, nice work. Shitty skiers, unite! BTW, sport climbing in Utah is rad, dude--can't believe you were hating on me....

My head hurts. Definitely too many beers. I'm still drinking away the sorrows of losing a soccer match to Germany. Ugh. Well, I apologize in advance for the photo assault. This climb is spectacular and very picturesque, even if the climbing itself isn't incredibly sustained. Definitely bring DEET for the approach and climb. I was surprised how high those blood-suckers made it up the route... Anyway, the goods: The line on the hike in: Alpenglow at camp the night before the climb: Above the lake ascending Colchuck glacier: The base of the route. If you're a hardman, you probably wouldn't rope-up for this, but Rob and I don't qualify for that title. The exposure was pretty significant so we decided to break out the rope and simul-climb. This is where we started getting lost. We tried to follow Beckey's description and got a little confused. I would say, once you make it up the upper slabby stuff, follow the rightward trending gulley until it ends in a giant pillar. Traverse around that, and you should be at the base of the crux pitch. We think this is the 5.6 OW pitch described in Beckey's...Rob at the OW section: Me heading out on the crux. Thanks to Rob's picture taking, this looks pretty wicked; the route is not overhung and is maybe 80 degrees. Very fun pitch: weird fingers to bomber hands. Rob making his way across the slabby start to the subsequent 5.7 pitch and the last of the real sustained difficulties. Pro was awkward on this pitch and the climbing spicy but interesting. The sight that greeted us at the top of the pillar...time to scramble the rest of this. We stayed roped and simul-climbed just about all of it, belaying a few spots of low 5th class. Though exceptionally beautiful, neither Rob nor I really appreciated the views of oncoming storm clouds. Thankfully, the storm never made it to Dragontail... Rob topping out: Hydrating on the descent down Aasgard: Due to our route-finding issues and general slowness, we made it to the bottom of the pass just at dark, in time to enjoy prolonged searching for our campsite. Oh, well, all fun has it's price. Although the climbing isn't sustained, the money pitches are fun, and the route has a big-mountain feel. As soon as I brush-up my off-width skills I'd like to tackle Backbone ridge....

Thanks for a great trip, dude. Here are some pics of our climb on SEWS. The first belay: Rob contemplating his odds on the bear-hug pitch: The upper slab: We were pretty damn lucky about the storm. Sadly, no pictures were taken of the double rainbow....didn't have time to take a shot what with the hail and impending lightning and all. This route is rad...go get it!

We ran into them as we were hiking out after doing the same route. They had planned to bivy on the route above the pillar anyway, so hopefully they were well prepared. One of them is a regular here, so I expect we'll hear from him soon.

Hope you guys have fun. Unfortunately, I won't be able to make it after all. Maybe another day....

I may join you....where are you fellas planning to climb?