counterfeitfake

Apparently you follow the spray-painted arrow.

Were you ever not a noob?

I think I disliked it because it feels pretty hard and is covered in pine needles and brush. Didja do it?

This is a good point, I have seen lots of them modded with a little swaged cable loop, which seems like a good easy solution.

Been a while, but I thought I used a #4. I also think getting out from under the roof involves a fair amount of #3 crack, so it doesn't seem "optional". I could be remembering badly. edit: The report says #4 AND #5...

Find some old cobras or vipers, they're still good tools but lots of people let them go once the new generation came out. The vipers are probably better as they can be made leashless.

Walking across the snow in the morning to get on route with crampons will take 5 minutes. Chopping steps will take... how long? Walking down the warm soft snow on the descent will require neither crampons nor axe. Yes, that descent is super easy. When I did it in August I certainly didn't crampon up. Maybe in September? If the snow is so soft you're worried about it balling up on your feet, just arrest a fall with your knees and your chin. On the other hand, if the snow is so hard you need crampons to get down, what good will an axe do? Like I said, that's just me. But it's not like both points of view haven't been voiced before.

Do you have any big pictures of Eldorado?

I would advocate crampons and no axe, but that's just me.

I'm not saying Freeway's grade is sandbagged (I'd have to get on it before making that call). I'm saying them talking him into getting on route at that point was sandbagging him. Classic. I know Marc is way strong but does he really simulclimb 5.11-? Maybe I should be even more impressed.

THAT is Beacon?? THAT is a ROUTE?? THAT IS WHAT ALL THIS SPRAY IS ABOUT??

So cool! CLASSIC SANDBAG! lol

So you have heard of an ATC failing?

A real Jumar, not an ascender of some sort? Jumars freak me out when they HAVEN'T been dropped.

Is there a good story?

It feels like you read a bunch of other things that made some sense, and kind of puked them back in a weird way that is nonsense. First, why would it be okay to belay with it and not rappel with it?? I'm not climbing with you. I have read many refutations of the "microfractures" theory in aluminum, by metallurgists. I am not one so I can't be sure they're right, but they sounded valid. The "test of stuff at the base of el cap" is kind of a climbing urban legend at this point, I think we should refrain from citing it until someone has the real story. And the "isn't your life worth X" argument has no logical merit, and it is a bottomless hole.

Ah, that explains much... hope you guys get it sorted out. You probably don't really need to worry about anyone poaching. Thanks again for the work.

I read somewhere that people plunge step down Hell's Highway... is that the case? Seemed steep, and for us the top snow was soft with hardness underneath. Maybe I'm a plunge stepping weenie but we faced in.

Better yet, do whatever you want to do as fast as you want to do it, and then shut up.

THUMP THUMP THUMP THUMP

Actually, you're kind of making it sound like the FFA isn't going to be done by one of the developers, but you want to make sure you give it away to the right person. Is that what you mean?

You developers poured so much time, effort, and money into the route, and I am all for you getting the credit and small amount of glory available by having your name next to "FFA" in a guidebook. But why did you release a topo to the public before you were ready for the route to be climbed? You are cool with people climbing the route as long as they pull on a bolt at some point?

A little, I'm not sure you get a very clear view at any point. However all the other glaciers we saw were nicely covered, so I'd imagine it's in pretty good shape too.

You should sign your ice tools. Between that and the custom tape job they would be worth a fortune.

Don't see why you are hating but I'll reply (bite). I just did this as an afternoon special. Left the house at 3pm. My partners were all busy. It was fun to actually do a car to car push on something moderate. But ya, there are much better fish out there. I just needed to test myself on this one car to car (and get out of my "bubble"). It was fun, I don't have regrets. But ya, I hear ya. I realize my competency is much greater than the routes I've done so far. Not sure why that is. Guess I need to start pushing the envelope. You keep missing the point. The point is, stop spraying.