gary_hehn

I only use nylon daisies. I guess I would avoid using anything else. Although, the other materials, I guess mainly spectra, have been used so much that you would think we would know if there was a problem. I certainly would hope that we are not beta testing them! I have avoided using spectra daisies mainly because of not knowing when to retire them and the fact that the girth hitch is cinched and untied so often.

Yikes, 14 full length raps in 45 min certainly is impressive! It seems too fast to leave much of a safety margin but, that's a call each individual must make for themselves. I like to make a habit of clipping the rappel rope loosely through a biner on the front of my harness when I am at the base of a rappel. That way I can go about other tasks. In the mean time, if a rappeller runs into trouble, the rope is right with me and I don't have to scramble for it to initiate a fireman's belay.

Get a sturdy step stool with a wide base so that it doesn't tip easily. I make sure that the stool is short enough that the angle at my knee is greater than ninety degrees when I step up on it. Put on a pack with weight. Follow this procedure (let's start with the left foot): Step up on the stool with your left foot, followed by your right foot. Then, step down with the left foot and then down with the right foot. Continue doing this for five minutes and then switch to stepping with your right foot first for another five minutes. Continue repeating this ten minute routine. I find that for me a half hour with a fifty pound pack at 22-24 steps per minute is a great workout! It's real specific to trudging up a climber's path. And it's quiet so, you can watch your favorite climbing DVD to keep you motivated as you do all that sweating in place. Although, lately I've been watching Red Dwarf.

For what it's worth, I always carry a couple nylon sewn runners in my rack and save them for last. If I find the need to girth hitch something along the way I then use the nylon runners. Also, on moderate alpines I generally carry two or three double length nylon tied runners. This combination has worked pretty well for me.

Personally, I've never used a belay loop, but of course have been belayed from them. They've always made me a bit nervous for some reason, but I've always felt that my concerns were unfounded. This is like a worst nightmare come true! I know that others have felt the same and backed them up with another loop. I feel terrible hearing about this tragedy. Thoughts and prayers to all affected ... rest in peace Todd.

My put for you is Buck Mtn. from Buck Creek Pass and High Pass. Spectacular area, good long trek, excellent route. The West Shoulder involves some exposure (class 3), but not real serious if you are comfortable at class 3. If you need more you could climb Fortress, Southwest Route (class 2), as well.

I tried going commando once, to save weight - how anal! Bad idea, it was not good, I don't recommend it. I've had good luck with patagucci capilene briefs, but I've gotten great reviews on Under Armour shirts, their products might be worth checking into.

I always use the EDK when I rappel with a second EDK snuggled up to the first - for some of you this could mean two wrongs makes a right. I use the same knot when I floss every night. This setup has never failed me and I am confident that it never will. And I love rappeling, but I do avoid it when practicable mostly because a simple mistake can easily lead to a simple outcome - death or worse. I had a good friend, Ken Patterson, lose his life to it using a well established / much used anchor that failed. That was thirty years ago and of course it still haunts me.

My choice has been to free climb with two 8.5mm ropes. Hey, we back everything else up, why not the rope? I use them for five years before retiring them, unless they scare me before then.

Thanks for the info Josh. That's pretty much what I expected. The Mountaineer Intermediate Course Recommendations route description recommends a 2nd tool and that threw me off. I think maybe they expect you to look for some ice for practice. I called the Lake Wenatchee Ranger Station today and was told that the Chiwawa River road is closed where the pavement ends and that the last campground that is accessable is at Grouse Creek. Looks like resorting to Plan B is in order. Then, I expect the weather forecast will push it out to Plan C. Thanks again all. This site is great for info like this. Guess I'd better start making $ donations to the cause.

That was my next question, but I hadn't thought to ask here. Thanks. Still would like to know about the need for a 2nd tool.

Does one really need two tools for this climb for say this coming weekend?

No takers? I'm meeting someone there tomorrow night, but we'd be prefectly happy with a third if you want to do a make up.

email chain from may02, subject: wuts that smell? Gary to Dave: dave, if u smell something skanky or possibly even putrid in ur car, it quite probably is my dirty laundry! i seem 2 remember wrapping dead chicken skins in it. if u decide that u need 2 just take it out back & burn it, i'll understand. Dave to Gary: I thought a Squamish rat crawled in the car and then died. I was going to trade the car in at lunch today! Maybe all I need to do is buy some protective gear then get the nerve to look under the seat! Gary to Dave: sorry about the hazardous waste. i did leave dead chicken skins in someones car once. a volkswagen and when he turned on the heater the shit hit the fan, so 2 speak, & he neverly went off the road! i didn't do that on purpose either

So, do we get to vote on this so that our representatives in Olympia can usurp our decision?

I hiked to the top of Ingrid's Inspiration near the top of Armstrong's Express lift at Alpental yesterday. Can't remember the name of the seep. There was enough ice for some climbing. I suppose the weather forecast puts it's duration in question, but thought I would report that there is some ice at this time.

My answer to this has been to use stainless steel when practical. Klean Kanteen (see www.kleankanteen.com) has a 22 oz. bottle that is rugged and relatively light. Sigg has a small 12 oz. mug that I really like for cold and hot drinks ( see http://www.gear-zone.co.uk/eshop/Sigg-Metro-Mug.html ). It travels well and is also rugged and relatively light. Otherwise, it's a pretty tough battle. I mean what isn't packaged in plastic these daze?

thestidham, I took them to mean aid climbing proper. In your case it could mean placing pro while on a top rope and weighting it to see that it holds. Be careful not to knock any teeth out while doing this if a piece pops on you. Doing this gives you an idea what is going to hold and what may not. When trad leading you will not want to weight or set pieces as hard as it makes retrieval difficult and time consuming for the second.

http://pages.infinit.net/emah/recclimbing/recclimbing.html - gobs of links to other climbing sites.

quick tip: take enough wands to wand from the top of the Ledges to summit for retreat/descent.

I have always simply used a prusik knot on a short sling with a pulley attached below to feed it up the slightly weighted rope as I climb. Whatever you use do as sweatinoutliquor recommends, tie in short with backup knots. I use a separate rope for that and clip into figure eights.

I had a friend that was out on a marathon training run and had to duck into the woods for a nature break. He answered his call and unwittingly wiped with the stuff. Seriously, this really happened! Needless to say, he didn't run the marathon. My sister got into Poison Ivy (East coast) and passed it on to my other sister who then proceeded to pass it on to me. Very persistent and nasty stuff. smithisheaven, hope your friend gets well soon.

Most often when I go snow shoeing just for fun I choose just what korup describes, a route where snowshoes are probably better. Following creeks is a blast, especially when coming down! But, be careful, there can be many terrain traps and you need to stay conscious of them.

Someone said, "it's not worth dying for, but it is worth the risk".

I believe the Civettas have a relatively thin liner and the intuition is thick enough that it may not fit, especially if your fit is already snug. It could be that you would have to go 1/2 to a full size larger boot. I've heard good feedback on the intuitions - warm and comfortable and light weight. They may be too bulky for Civettas though. Of course, you can always go to a shop (Marmot) and give them a try.