powdrx

Sounds like a sweet 3 day trip to me!! Amazing to get it done in 13+hrs. Ya'll just keep rolling!! Keep up the amazing pics!!

I only carried a cord-o-lette for awhile, but after taking a self-rescue class, the cord-o-lette is money "just in case". And it is always there for bail cord. You can go as light as you want, but you always need enough to get home safe!! And I've found Spectra isn't as good for prusiks or other friction knots... cord is great!! But it really is personal preference and what you feel you can get away with out in the bush!!

Camping is great and pretty cheap but do get reservations. But if you wanna be on the cheap, the BLM road is just West of the Entrance on the West side (coming from Oakely). If you come from Almo, drive all the way through the park and turn Right just outside on the west side. You can get water in the park either way. Highly recommend Tribal Boundaries in the City and Shock and Awe at Castle Rocks. Both easy 10 sport climbs. And Fred Rasmussen, a sweet 5.8 crack. Rock!!

Couple ideas I found: http://www.knick-knack.com/howto/climb/build-a-climbing-rope-washer.html http://www.cragx.org/equest5.htm Maybe a good idea to try and combine the two.

Going to Joshua next week for 5 days of sunny sweetness. Anyone wanna throw out their 5 best J-Tree climbs. Trad, sport, or bouldering... whatever. Looking to rock for 5 days!!

Nice job EO!! Jealous!! Once I get this tumor off my A$$ (known in layman's terms as an office chair) we should get out!!

I bought some last week and attached them over the top of the rubber based on my grip. Works pretty good for hanging around my garage. But I didn't make it out on the ice yet.

No worries... just throwing out some things I noticed to help in the conversion. Keep up the great work!!

I'm noticing some quirks with the Past 24hr section. I select "Spray-Free", but when I go to the next page, it goes back to Spray-Full. It does this every time I change the page. The Active topic selection does the same thing every time the page is changed. I also noticed that now ALL new posts come up in the Past 24hr list instead of just listing the thread they are included in ONCE. Not sure if this stems from my above problem, but makes for a much longer list of threads. Just some observations... Thanks!!

Just got back last night. We summited on Saturday. Everything is great all the way up. Use the Crystal Pass variation and then over the False summit. The Summit rocks are indeed a challenge right now as there is one place you can access the rocks from the snow. The one bridge we used is falling fast. But the trail in is fine and the last avy chute before Glacier Meadows is fine... just have to drop down a little and back up to the trail on the far side. Much more rain up there and the summit rocks may be tough to get onto, unless you wanna climb from the bottom all the way up on crappy, loose rock with little protection. Definitely better done in July, but good luck!!

Joe you are the man!! Hope ya'll were "super-safe" on the bivy ledge!! Don't let vonHagel see this TR or his cast will explode with jealousy!! Great Work Bro!!!

BUMP

Anyone up on the Sulphide last weekend?? Heading up tomorrow and wondering how much trail is melted out before we start skinning and how the summit gully is looking. Should we pack shoes and switch to boots etc... Any info is great!!

WOW it goes fast!! I got a little beta on TAY.com as well. They said snow becomes continuous about 4200. Still worth a shot!! Thanks a bunch!!

Great job ignoring the weather forecasts!! Anyone check out the Silver Star Creek start to Silver Star?? Is there still snow from the road?? I'd like to get that ski in soon!! Thanks for any info!!

Yeah sorry about that, they flare inside, so you throw a cam in to fit the slot, but it flares away inside and the cams walks back or opens inside. I've found hexes work well in places where the cams won't. Good time to learn that kind of pro and they are cheaper to get a starter rack going.

Don't forget Mush Maker (5.7) and Jam Exam (5.9) at Royal Columns!! I have led the former and followed the later. As a new leader, I found them both challenging for the grade, but nicely consistent. I think this place is great to start leading... I recommend some hexes here as some of the cracks flare a bit.

Second that!! They did very well!! Didn't stay for the finals, but only person I saw send the hardest qualifying route was from VW!!

Go get the Selected Climbs Vol 1 and 2. Full of alpine options in this great area. Rainier is open, Hood, Baker, Hwy-20 peaks, Colchuck, Dragontail, Stuart.... You should just get out and explore. And all peaks are "good" peaks bro... just get out and climb!! Check out the TRs and see what people are doing and conditions updates.

The Washington Alpine Club also teaches a Basic Climbing course. But it is also already started for the year. Smaller course, but well packed with basic climbing skills, intro to alpine climbing and mountaineering/ glacier skills as well. Another to add to the list of "club-organized" classes. One thing for the longer classes is more practice and more repetition to solidify these base skills where as a weekend course throws you in the fire more and if you don't stay with it, you may forget somethings after a couple weeks off. Depends how motivated you are I guess!! Good luck getting started!!

I love Glaucoma mediaction!!! Great TR!!

Just because I don't spend most of my waking hours spraying all over this site does not mean I am not educated or don't have opinions. My tough guy comments were directed toward your immediate need to chop the bolts some "retard" put up because You don't like them. It is still perfectly climbable whether you clip or plug for protection... nothing has been "ruined". I am interested to hear what the evil bolters have to say.

I should clairfy my statements by saying that I would NOT have climbed the route without the bolts because I am not at 10b trad leader... yet. Like I said, I will come back to climb the route with gear when I can, but it was fun on Friday with bolts!! Maybe Jim and/or Marlene with chime in with their reasoning for the bolts...

Well, we know who to talk to when they are chopped MCash. And what a waste of time that will be... how about climb the route and don't use the bolts if you don't want to. WHO CARES!!! Go climb, have fun, and if you are such a tough guy that you have to cut bolts, maybe you should be out putting up new routes in whatever fashion you desire. I thought the route was really fun with the bolts and it already had 5 bolts on it to begin with.

I met Jim and Marlene first weekend of October while they were adding bolts to Go Cat Go. Climbed the route yesterday and it is a great route, even with the new bolts.