sprocket

Without know all the facts or knowing much about terrain park design I think it's a bit of a tough issue. I have little or no sympathy for someone who goes through the "Closed Area" sign and falls off a cliff and gets injured or killed but when you pay a good chunk of money to ride at a commercial ski area you assume that the people making these jumps are employing the best standards for designing them. There seems to be a fair amount of evidence that there were problems with this jump and nothing was done to correct it. I suppose they could have put a sign up that noted that several people have been severly injured on the jump so proceed at your own risk but that wouldn't probably be very good for business. I tend to stick to the groomed runs and close to the ground.

Been to Vantage several times this year and it's a drive from Leavenworth, just looking to crawl out of my tent and climb something close by. Alphabet and 8 mile are fun, Dogleg and Classic are both great and Hindquartes has spit me off on toprope a couple of times but its a cool climb. I didn't know there were bolted routes at Clamshell Cave, thanks for the tip. I've been to Playground Point too, a couple of really fun routes.

I'm going to be in Leavenworth Saturday for a raft trip and was thinking about staying the night and getting some climbing in on Sunday. I don't want to bring a rack but thought I'd bring a rope and some draws. My question is does anyone know of a place there that has a half dozen or more bolted routes in the 5.6-5.10 range that has a short approach? I've been contemplating heading up to Condorphamine Addiction but would prefer doing single-pitch stuff with a shorter approach. Thanks

So has Bourdon gotten flak for changing grades in his Select Guide? Usually he changes upward, Corner Crack 5.8 vs. 5.7 in McLane. I did notice that he grade downward on some routes that McLane had the first ascent, Orphan 5.8 vs. 5.9 in McLane.

I thought Corner Crack was pretty fair at 5.8, it's kind of awkward and polished, certainly harder than the two 5.8's up on the ledge to the left, Sally Five Fingers was one of them I think. I thought a boom stick was those single-shot shotguns that divers carried to ward off sharks or was that bangstick.

I've got small hands and First Blood is a thrutchfest for me, scariest thing I ever led, dropped my only big piece when I didn't re-clip it properly on my gear sling and then had to get creative and trust some marginal placements. Fortunately there are some small horizontal cracks that take TCU's about 2/3's of the way up and there are footholds most of the way. I don't think any one move is technically harder than the rest and 5.8 is fair although stiff for the grade IMO unless you have big hands or cruise offwidths. I think 5.9 is fair for Jam Exam, there is one awkward move that can easily spit you off if you aren't attentive. I don't think Inca for example has a single harder move on it but it is sustained and gives people who don't pay attention to their feat fits. If you want to stroke your ego I think the new Weekend Rock book calls Inca 5.10a.

I think most people I climb with consider something in the 10-20F range plenty for most of the time on most mountains around here. Adjust upward or downard depending on how "hot" or "cold" you sleep. Of course weather and elevation and how far you push 3 seasons can change things. I have 20F down bag but it's not comfortable at that temp unless I wear a lot of clothes, but WM has a better reputation than the brand I have and will probably be even conservative for its rating. Last year in May I froze all night at 4,000', later in July at 7,000'+ I was sweating, both times in the same bag and bivy sack. Baker can get nasty but odds are you won't climb if it gets real bad and the time frame you are talking about is part of the best weather window we have out here, about the middle of July through about the first or second week of September. If this is a one time trip and you won't need the bag after that you might consider borrowing or renting. I think REI and some other places out here rent bags although I'm not sure about quality and temp rating.

Thanks for the report. I've been looking for a new pair of shoes with better edging and these have been the ones (plus the 5.10 Annazi)that seem to get the most recommendations. I loved my Mythos before they finally wore out and have heard that for quality La Sportiva seems to be better than 5.10. I'm also a fellow duck foot so am glad to hear they fit wide feet. Would enjoy hearing a follow up after you've used them some more and see if they continue to impress.

Most problems don't have easy solutions but that doesn't stop you from trying. I read today that in the U.S. we have 2,500 children killed by guns a year, Japan has 0. Also the shooters at VT, Columbine and Springfield Oregon a few years back were all on prescription medications when they committed their crimes. And we still argue about right to bear arms. Sad really.

Someone previously ripped on the Rainier Valley. I've lived in Seward Park neighborhood for 10 years and really like the place. Columbia City has gotten several new good restaurants in the last few years. We finally got a movie theater. The vibe is similar to Ballard 10 or so years ago when all the dive bars were being converted to neighborhood pubs and a ton of new restaurants started opening. I'm less than a mile from Seward Park and Lake Washington Blvd (which is a several mile long park) which both have great lakeside running paths and are great for cycling. I can head north and link up with the Burke-Gilman/Samamish trails for something like 70 miles RT of riding or cruise over to Mercer Island via I-90 for a shorter ride. I can walk 2 blocks to my local co-op and have a brand new coffee shop across the street from it. There's a dog run a couple of miles away, lighted soccer fields there too. Getting to I-5 and some of the north parts of town are a bit of a pain but access to the south and east are very good. I like Ballard but to me it's a pain to get around from there plus I read that starter homes are pushing 600K there. I think a couple things mentioned before are very true about Seattle. Neighborhoods can vary a lot street to street and a short commute are a big bonus, mine's less than 6 miles and involves no freeway travel.

I've heard 3 yrs if you use it regularly. After 3 yrs on my last harness (climbing twice a week outside and gym)I noticed the tie-in point on the leg loops felt funny. I cut away the covering and found the about half the weight bearing webbing was worn through. The waist loop was still good but it was a bit disconcerting. I think if you climb a lot in the gym, you wear them out quicker because you are loading them a lot more than would be typical in outside climbing. Like mentioned before, things like ropes and harnesses should be replaced regularly and are cheap compared to the alternative.

Isn't the hottest chic the one having the most fun? Besides, aren't all chics that climb hot?

I think that the 3 cams I use the most are #1 & #2 Camalots and a number #4 TCU (somewhere in the range of .5 or .75 Camalot). A #3 Camalot is on my rack now and I use it all the time. I think a lot depends on where and what you plan to climb most, how soon you will add more cams and if you prefer stoppers to cams in the smaller range. When I'm at my limit and need to shove gear quickly I go for a cam and have doubles down to #1 TCU so small cams are important to me. My friend in the same situation goes for stoppers first. As mentioned before where you climb affects what you need. I did a couple climbs up in the N. Cascades last summer and wished I had a #5 and #6 Camalot, but when I went to Squamish it seemed like you needed a lot of cams in the .75 range and down. I've used the Link cam and think it's useful but can be a little harder to place than a Camalot and think its a good cam to get when you are getting a second set because 1 cam can back up 2-3 standard cams. As mentioned earlier too, Tri-cams can be a cheaper alternative in the smaller range. I'm not a huge fan of them but a lot of climbers carry them, especially the 3 smallest ones. I personally like to carry the 3-4 bigges WC hexes. They are light and if your are at a comfortable stance they make bomber placements. I like to use them at belays for these reasons and it also saves the cams for the leader. Plus they are relatively inexpensive.

I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this question but would welcome some feedback. I've been looking for info on intermediate level (blue runs) all-mountain snowboards. I have an older entry level K2 board and would like to upgrade. It will be used almost exclusively for developed areas, with maybe an occasional ride down something like Muir or St. Helens. There seem to be a lot of good deals out there right now and I would like to take advantage of them. The one brand that seems to get universal praise is Arbor and Burton seems to have a good reputation. Any info on sizing, brands, specific boards, websites with reviews, place to buy, deals you've seen etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I don't know that I trash it but the food and service are mediocre. For about the same or a little more cash you can go to Viscontti's and get much better food and service. For cheap eats the pizza kitty-corner from Cold Stone is great.

Just curious, what are the other two? Green Spit? Magic Line? So...does any of these "hard man cracks" have second accents? As far as I know Green Spit has only one ascent by Didier Berthod and the Magic Line has only one ascent on pre-placed gear by Ron Kauk.

Just curious, what are the other two? Green Spit? Magic Line?

Saw this in the morning paper, found it a bit creepy. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2003535398_coffeegirls22e.html Just curious, if an attractive woman, intelligent or not, decides to use her looks as a commodity, doesn't that have the effect, intended or not, of making a commodity of all women's looks?

Thanks for a lot of good input. For the sake of this discussion I am mainly interested in moderate rock climbs. Someone previously almost hit all the ones I am interested in, top of the list being W. and N. Ridge of Stuart. Going stoveless is something I have contemplated if there is water available on the route. Approach shoes might be a good idea, but for me once it gets above 5.6-5.7 I would prefer my rock shoes. Trimming the rack appropriate to the route is a good suggestion too, I like to have a lot of cams when I am leading but they weigh a lot. Gear I have and am contemplating getting lighter versions include: Have: Down 20F bag 30oz Want: WM or Marmot 16 oz bag Have: 20oz bivy sack Want: MB 6-7oz bivy sack Have: 20oz belay jacket Want: 9-10oz WM, MB or FF belay jacket Have: 16+oz rock harness Want: 8-9oz Mammut or Trango harness Have: 24oz inflatable pad Want: sub 10oz ¾-length foam pad Have: 3lb 6oz Osprey pack Want: lighter pack that carries well Have: 16oz WP/B SD jacket Want: sub 10oz jacket Fairly lightweight stuff I have that I am not contemplating replacing at this point. Snowpeak stove. Titanium pot. Givel Air Tech Racing Ice Axe Stubai Univeral Aluminum Crampons 9.4mmx60M rope Fair amount of wiregate biners and spectra sew runners. Budget will determine how much of this I can swing this year. I will have to look at what gives the most weight reduction per dollar and what gear would have more uses besides the few carryovers I would do per year. Thanks for the good info.

Promountains gear list was sort of the starting point for my interest. What I'm interested in hearing from people is what their experience has been with stuff like this. 16 oz. sleeping bags, 6 oz. bivy sacks, 15 oz. GoLite packs, 10 oz. WM puffy jacket etc. Is this stuff that you have/would bring on something say like the N. or W. Ridge of Stuart in July with decent weather?

Thanks Fern, although I did find the post you removed somewhat funny and less abusive than I expected.

Looking for recommendations for lighter gear options for carryover alpine rock climbs. I'm focusing on stuff that won't be super technical, most likely 2 days with planned bivy and will most likely look for a good weather window this summer. Am interested in packs, sleeping bags, bivy sacks, clothing optins etc. Trying to find out what is a reasonable weight to carry both on approach and once you are climbing. Thanks

Thanks again PaulB, much easier to understand than Whistler's website.

Thanks PaulB. Looks like the 1 day Edge tickets ($64 plus tax right now) are cheaper. Do you know if you can purchase more than one Edge ticket at a time and if you have to get them in advance? Our group has some other discount options like Steven's Advantage cards and some ski show dicounts so we're trying to figure out the best options.

I'm heading up next weekend for 2 or 3 days and am wondering if anyone knows what the current price of tickets are at the 7-11. Thanks