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XXX

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Everything posted by XXX

  1. That V thread looks like it is gonna pop out! Nice work Anna, hope you enjoyed it =)
  2. In short no. Just move to Alberta where there is real ice.
  3. XXX

    The Eiger?

    Just watched all 8 parts! loved it!! And as far as the second video goes. Uli is one b@#$ Az@#$s
  4. Nice work, looks like alot of fun! Wish I went but I was sleeping in my bed like a little baby =)
  5. I was thinking the same thing. So Mt. Washington records a low of -50, big deal. Places in Alaska reach temps that low quite a bit, and most of the places don't even have weather stations. Besides you can walk down many parts of Mt. Washington, you can't just walk out of the Brookes Range in a few hours. I'm not trying to diss Mt. Washington, but if I had a choice of places I am least likely to survive on my own, I don't think Mt. Washington qualifies.
  6. I agree whoever made that second chart is way off base with the skin tones for indigineous peoples.
  7. Hehe not trying to be a meanie =). Just saying.
  8. Ya well SO WHAT! For cryng out loud there is a weather station on top of Mt. Washington. There are plenty of mountains in the coastal ranges, or even Rockies that have terrible conditions. Only difference is that 50 million people don't live within a stones throw of them. So can Mt. Washington be dangerous? Of course it can be. But so can alot of other peaks. The fact that people drive and ride their bike to top means that there are going to be alot of victims.
  9. Ya I didn't get a really good look at the North Face, but like the other posters I assume it was a go. There was only one other party that we ran into that day, and they did the NF and said it was FAT. Go get it!
  10. I've always wanted to climb this thing, the rock looks weird. Nice pics!
  11. Trip: Chair Peak - Northeast Buttress Date: 12/11/2009 Trip Report: Chair Peak: 6,238 feet. Me and my buddy Jesse Newman decided that we needed to get outside ASAP! The weather this past week was just amazing. We probably started our trip around 6:30am. The approach was pretty quick and easy. After a quick discussion we decided on climbing the northeast buttress. We simulclimbed a section of mixed rock and ice with Jesse leading the way up to a bomber anchor above. For the next pitch we quickly made our way across a steep snow slope where I set up an anchor to belay Jesse up a short section of ice. I would guess it to be WI3/AI 2 ice (but i'm not sure). Jesse made it look easy. After passing the short ice cliff we unroped to move faster. It was pretty much just a steep climb to the summit. It was a bit icy, and we were greeted with clear skies and beautiful views of the Cascades, Olympics, and Puget Sound. We were lucky enough to make out downtown Seattle and Tacoma from the summit! Such a beautiful day. If you look towards the center of the picture below, you can make out downtown Seattle and Puget Sound. We downclimbed some steep snow, and made 4 rappels to the base. A great trip! We were back to our car by around 4 pm. Taco time does a body good. Gear Notes: two sets of ice tools, 4 ice screws (only used 3), a 60 meter 8mm rope, and one picket got the job done.
  12. Not sure why anyone would travel all the way there to go skiing, unless it was work or family related. But hey if that floats your boat. I still think this winter is going to deliver the goods here. Today was just a taste of what is to come!
  13. umm isn't the road washed out 6 miles before the trail head? Hardly worth it. Any decent seracs on the Nisqually?
  14. Sounds a bit like broke back mountain.
  15. The rap part sounds scary for sure. Good thing you had all that extra gear to place. Nick was probably smart to get sick..Nice work!
  16. Trip: Washington Pass - South Early Winter Spire, South Arete 7807 ft. Date: 7/20/2009 Trip Report: My friend Brent Underwood has been doing alot of mountaineering this summer and expressed interest in alpine rock. After one day in leavenworth I figured that South Early Winter Spire would be the best way to teach some basic traditional multi pitch climbing skills. This was his first time belaying a leader on rock, and it made me a little nervous but after the first pitch it was all good. We made quick work of the first crux friction move at the bottom. The best part of the climb was the second pitch with the 5.4 chimney move. Once above sandy ledges and some easy cracks we made it to the whale back which provided some nice exposure. The mosquitoes were evil. Had to cover my body up the whole time to avoid getting bitten to death. Even at the summit we were hounded! We only ran into one other party on the route that was being guided. Other then that we had the whole route to ourselves. We down climbed to the whale back,and down some blockly rock slabs. Afterwards three rappels got us to the base. Approach to the base of SEWS. Whale back. Guided party at the summit. Brent on the summit. Beautiful views. Last rappel down. Did I mention the bugs were brutal! Gatorade does a body good. Time to sleep! Gear Notes: Small rack of cams and nuts to 2.5. 60 meter rope, slings, etc etc.
  17. Great story I agree. I am particularly interested in what happend on the Eastern Front. So many Americans today only think about DDAY and stuff like the Battle of the Buldge. In all honesty those battles were pretty tinu in comparison to what took place on the eastern front. Sometimes in one day more people died on the eastern front then the entire battle of the Buldge. The scope and carnage of killing was something never before seen in history.
  18. I didn't see to many really good accessible seracs lower down on the Easton to practice ice climbing on. However around the 7-8K level there were some decent blocks of ice that I could imagine would make for great practice ice climbing if you felt they were stable enough. If you don't mind hiking up a bit it may be worth it. Of course nothing is as nice as the Coleman glacier. Its amazing to me how much more rugged the Coleman is. But I think it may be worth a shot to investigate later in the summer. I'm still a bit upset that the road to the coleman is closed
  19. Trip: Mt. Baker 10,778 ft. - Easton Glacier Date: 7/4/2009 Trip Report: I've seen a couple TR's on the Easton Glacier so I will make this short. Me and Anastasia B left the Seattle area around 1:30pm and arrived at the trailhead around 6pm. We ate, tried to sleep for about 2 hours, and left the trailhead at 2am to climb Mt. Baker via the Easton Glacier. Views were stunning, snow was soft and we made the summit around 10am or so. There was no wind to speak of at the summit, and I laid down for about a half hour on the summit just to be lazy. We probably crossed three sketchy snowbridges that appear to be opening up quite a bit. On the way down it was hot and mushy! We unroped about half way down the glacier and slogged our way back to the glacial moraine. There were quite a few other parties who made the ascent that day. We ran into numerous guided parties from AAI. Made it back to the car by 6pm to a nice bottle of gatorade. Great day and lots of folks made it to the summit. I got a good work out on my legs! Crevasses are opening up. I would imagine that within a month or so the route should get quite interesting. This route is worth doing in a long day. We started around 2 am and made it back to the car by 6 pm. Not a stellar time, but good enough for me. Better to avoid all the suffering involved with carrying heavy packs. Enjoy the pics. Gear: 50 meter 8mm rope Ice Axe Basic glacier gear (slings, prussicks, pulleys etc.) Lots of water and a few cliff bars. Me kungkagam on the summit. Giant Serac Anastasia near the summit. Mortal Combat pose!
  20. There can't be that many alpine climbers out there. I think I read a stat somewhere that said 85 percent of those who climb are sport climbers. Now I would guess that Washington state has a higher percentage of those who do alpine climbing. But even so, I can't imagine their being more then 2000 in the whole state. But who knows.
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