Coldfinger

Thanks! Mark is unavailable for a bit but will ask his colleagues.

Howdy, We are researching the two approaches to the base of the Cassin Ridge--down the West Rib or the Seattle 1972 Ramp--and would like to get in touch with anyone who has done either recently. Thanks!

Keep in mind the Quark is a very versatile tool, and its swing varies by what modular components one chooses. For steep ice: no hammers, pick weights (additional $$ from stock configuration), trigrests WITH the trigger and the grip installed AND 3m shaft tape make the best pure ice tool I have swung. Very nice and very accurate swing. But try it without hammers and pick weights and not so much.

Howdy Keenwesh, hope you are well!! As for the 2228, I have found one can really stretch it just shy of tearing and a much thinner and tighter wrap is applied; seems lighter to me than a more relaxed application tension. Almost forgot: carefully wrap the shafts so as to minimize overlap between turns and that will also save weight

Hey Fairweather! Point is there is a big campaign in Utah and Idaho and Wyoming to "return" Federal lands to the "rightful" owners according to the "correct" reading of the Constitution (one which I would add, not ONE court has accepted over many years and many attempts). So there actually IS a constitutional issue here: crackpot armchair lawyers, rabble rousers, tea party idiots and conservative "journalists" raising the constitution any time it serves their ideological purpose (despite the actual legal claim being totally bogus). But the bottom line is the big $$$ investors and industry and corporate interests who back this campaign to serve their own greedy ends. Or put another way false patriots preaching sedition (as in the recent governor's candidate in the Wyo GOP primary--Taylor Haynes--who announced he would have state law enforcement officials arrest ANY federal employee out on federal lands) while wrapping themselves in idiotic interpretations of the constitution.

Fine, just don't whine when your favorite non NPS mountain range is cut, mined and/or drilled and filled with yahoos and their ORV's and garbage.... Feel like the anti-wilderness, anti-environment angle IS a big part of the story if not THE story. Then there's the guardians of the constitution angle. I mean it is SUCH an injustice and constitutional violation to have to walk into the local FS office and get a permit. Sheesh I feel like my basic human rights are totally violated when I have to go get a woodcutting permit. Nevermind when I have to get a group permit to lead my den of cub scouts up there.

“The U.S. Forest Service remains committed to the First Amendment,” agency Chief Tom Tidwell said. “The directive pertains to commercial photography and filming only. If you’re there to gather news or take recreational photographs, no permit would be required.” “This proposed regulation is just one example of the kind of federal overreach that comes when we lock up our public lands in wilderness designations,” Alaska Sen. Lisa Murkowski, the top Republican on the Senate Energy and Natural Resources Committee, said Friday. (DRILL BABY DRILL)

And I am definitely NOT saying he FS isn't wrong or even off its rocker here or many other times; I just don't trust the "reporting" on this one. Seems more sensational and click on that banner driven than substantial.

They already and for many years have been issuing permits for this stuff, they are simply trying to make uniform and even rules that apply everywhere. Here in Wyo the latest rage is to "give" billions and maybe trillions of dollars worth of land to the states (read for industrial exploitation), even though these GOP types decry "handouts". Guess other citizens in states elsewhere might view this "gift" as a handout. But the point is there has been a lot of nonsense and anti fed "reporting" and it is definitely yet another attack in that war on public lands. BTW not sure why this particular commercial use should be excluded from regulation when commercial guides and outfitters are not.

Howdy all, RE: Forest Service Wilderness Photo fees....... Was going to post a reply but you all have run so far off of the farm (and reality) I thought maybe I would do a little reframing. First off, from my perspective this is yet another example of the "Free Press" (maybe the "paid press") running off foaming at the mouth to shock the public about the bad conduct of the "federal government". I.e. catering to the 2014 edition of sedition aka the "sagebrush rebellion." What really cracks me up is that the FS and its rule expressly excludes news gathering (either of a discreet incident, a serial edition or a long term project) from the fee. All the while "journalists" are decrying the end of journalism in wilderness (not that I have seen many if any real journalists anywhere near the actual outdoors). Apparently our intrepid journalists are once again either too dumb or too dishonest to do any research. Secondly, as things stand there is a total hodgepodge of local district rules regarding COMMERCIAL (i.e. not news but strictly for $$) filming in wilderness and this rule is an attempt to provide one overarching and perhaps fair policy. Kinda seems a good idea as it would rob local dictators of their little fake and arbitrary fiefdoms. And last but not least please do keep in mind that the $$ behind the anti-fed thing wants to frack, mine and cut the Fu*k out of our public lands. A little disappointed that those who enjoy those wild places cant be bothered to do more than (apparently) get their britches in a bunch over something they saw on Fox and/or Facebook. Anyhow, thought maybe you all could post a few more germane facts than found on the other thread which is, it seems, one of those inevitable ones where the "Spray" Lords overrun the Climber's Post.

Make sure they fit crampons, had big problems with the Syder Kevlar and too much rocker in the sole, and oh yeah one midsole shattered and that boot was floppy like a sandal.

No ideas here except send it in! Just judging by the size of the tent--you go with partners--so let them supply tentage until you get it back. Have had very good luck with MH warranty BTW.

A plus in my experience has been they make it easier and more comfortable for one to not be looking the wearer 'in the eyes'.

Hmmm. Have seen folks doing 5.12 in sneakers so what's your point? Climbing ice with lightweight snow tools is about as much fun as soloing barefoot, even if it's 5.8!

I would add the aztarexs have metal grips which are both too slippery and thermally conductive(cold).

Jeez Gene! Dead wrong on this. For one thing the Aztar is a pure alpine tool, with a shaft made for plunging, hence the very minimal hand rest and straighter aluminum shaft. Just a guess here but it was designed for minimal weight and is probably a bit light for the good sticks. The biggest import of this aside from the swing and the grip rest is that having swung Quarks without pick weights or hammers, and that sucked, the swing might be a bit light. The matrix pick has a lot of metal in the blade and a minimal hammer, which meant I really enjoyed the balance and punch, it is ALMOST as sweet as a new model Quark with weights and no hammers. My experience with heavy adzes and hammers has been they can cause more twist than punch on impact. Having swung both the Matrix and Matrix like, I would be fine taking either up a 5. For one either tool was designed for steep ice and has a great grip rest. The narrow shaft diameter makes them both easier to grip and lighter in the shaft. That honking stonking burly pick puts the swing weight squarely on the head. My opinion is either has one of the finest pure ice swings out there. The matrix pick is very heavy duty and has a very effective first tooth, good for either deep sticks or hooking thin ice. My opinion is that many so called top end ice tools are really more aimed at mixed climbing (or hooking) with their crazy bent shafts. The Matrix shaft has a shaft that seems pretty ideal for mainly ice with a good natural swing. It also has a nice bend at the grip that makes for a more ergonomic angle for the wrist. Both Matrix tools are surprisingly light, but still drive the pick really nicely into ice due to head weight. Had Matrix Lights for a couple if years with the Horns added and got many comments on how much easier they were to swing than most tools. I found I got a lot less pumped because they stuck well (fewer swing) and had good balance and a thinner diameter, lighter shaft. Am using Quarks now and not nomics as that tool seems the best swinging pure ice tool I have ever used. But the Grivels are pretty close. So I would say stick with the matrix tools for ice, as that is what the OP seems to want to do. It really is a pretty ideal tool for stuff up to and far beyond WI4.

That's right, it's at least 100 points for a snowboard.

I'll add this one thing, as it seems overlooked but on p[oint to the original post AND the thread: The "locals" have clearly addressed the "problem" of painting the rock and did so WITHOUT any USFS help. So.... Not to say the Rangers aren't needed, but it is clear the climbing community CAN handle problems. Well done!

Guess the umpapa show is better on Ritalin.

Actually it ISN'T so obvious unless method matters more than result. A good way to start a clusterf*!k is a blind belief in cooperation. Quite a few environmental groups and folks have sold their soul for "access" (aka "a seat at the table"). I would add the ideal of "development" is quite often the beginning of the end for a resource, even though the users might show up with SUP's & Bikes racked up. Still burning gas, flushing toilets and spending the big $$ on the gear and the look. Seems like greenwashing has become the new normal, so please forgive me for being a tad caustic. And while we're on the topic of sustainability and cooperation (at least as far as readability meets good sense), maybe we could ration words?

Quite believable actually, given the Russians' behavior on big faces on the big peaks. Summit at all costs. Probably had a good deal of spray paint AND spray hair product. Lets hope McCain doesn't get wind of this....... Oh and any idea on the ratings involved? Painted 5.8 would be LMFAO!

Keenwesh got a bulls eye on that! Got the new Quarks and they were crap without the weights and absolutely golden with them. As for the hammers...... It does matter WHERE the weight is (i.e. in front of or behind the shaft) and oh yeah, kinda hard to lose an eye or some teeth with the new Petzl shafts unless one uses a hammer.

Just a quick note on fit, I had the Scarpa Maverick (same Uehli Steck line as the Rebels) and they have a tighter fit than normal for Scarpa boots. Reason given is higher performance. Also, the tongue is very stretchy, so it further reduces boot volume through compression, but the fit is very good, provided your feet are not wide.

You're welcome

Kids: Have to agree with earlier post here, kids really don't get how dangerous climbing can be. Having a good deal of instruction and belay time with youngsters, I have to say that we need to treat climbing with children a little differently than with adults. Not to say they can't be as safe as adults, rather, imho, you have to go over ALL the details and do it differently than when with adults. Really important to hammer the importance of safety habits into their heads. I would add that Parents can often be a very unwelcome distraction/hazard if they don't know wtf is going on. I have come to understand that another child's mother provided the draws. Remains to be seen WHO rigged those draws. This issue will be a hard one for whoever rigged them, I hope it wasn't a child. I can remember making more than a few DIY items when I was young, so it probably is a good idea to visually check the child's harness, runners, draws and belay gear for that as part of the belay check or at least at the start of the day. As a side note, I am NOT a big fan of climbing on fixed or other people's gear as it is often hard to inspect and impossible to know its history. Inspection: Sad as it is the kid should have checked his draws/equipment. And the adults should not have been handling equipment they didn't inspect or possibly even understand. I have come to inspect each piece of pro, whether trad, ice or sport quickly as I clip and move past it. Simple habit, not much effort and allows me to focus on climbing. If you understand the function of each and every piece of the system, this really is pretty simple. Rubber Keepers: There are two basic designs for these rubber devices: 1. A rubber loop sewn into the dogbone, which make it harder to rig incorrectly, but not impossible. 2. A rubber piece, like the Petzl String, that sits over the loop, and is NOT sewn into the sling. The added benefit of this design is the keeper also protects the nylon dogbone from abrasion where it can and does rub against the rock. In addition to the way these were rigged in the accident, these are never to be used with any kind of open sling!! Petzl warns against this explicitly in its instructions and here is a good video on the topic: UKC safety video