Cobra_Commander

if I can help, I'd be happy to if I'm not working. Unaerated basalt has a density of 3011 kg/m^3

Well have at it then. I do have a brake rack to provide should it prove helpful. Or you could just heave it and hope it doesn't hit the tracks. I'm not sure how big that thing is. On the injury note, I was specifically referring to just the gear failure. I've found on heavy lowers, things fly with incredible speed and force and wind up in interesting places. BIING! Have fun.

Not sure how big that thing is, but you would have to have a serious anchor. Potentially several times its weight to get enough m.a. to control it. If it failed the odds of injury would be very high. If you do lower it, you'd be better off with a brake bar rack. Grigris start slipping around 3.5-4.5kN depending on rope diameter.

if garrison keillor can make money there anyone can.

Funny how I live in the land of great beer but would love to have a cold pig's eye every once in awhile.

are you referring to prince? The mall of america is a disgrace. What's unbelievable is how much money they make off packaged fly-in vacation tours to the mall.

Some of the trepidation about these groups is the role of "the guide". To be a certified guide for rock or alpine instruction takes time and dedication. It is a significant accomplishment to have certification, and a significant resume is needed to enter the courses just to prep for the amga exams. In Europe, it's a trade program requiring essentially a college degree. These professional roles are being replaced by someone who has been through the Mountaineers basic program. Now it may well be that there's no problem with that, but it is something to think about before you launch into the Pickets with someone you might not know that well. There are often just a few bad apples creating a reputation, but it sure is lame to be with one of those apples! Of course, I'm sure the organization can make sure the right people are leading the right trips to some degree. You get guaranteed competence and experience if you pay for a certified guide for instruction or a climb. Some people are willing to pay for that.

no kidding, and they are also pretty much silent so you don't hear 'em coming

No problem at all, and you know I appreciate everything.

maybe it's the mexico visor he was after

Whoops, forgot how seriously this is taken around here. Just kidding around. As for pipeline I'm not discounting anything, I've done it several times that way. But I'd congratulate and be happy for anyone who leads it either way, if I can be allowed to call it by its name. And if you're worn out by that starting stuff, you need to get in shape! (this is another joke) And reasonable richard isn't a free solo! 3 bomb pieces before the bolt! (ducks)

haha! nice. The true puritans will come in from the very base for those few laybacks, maybe even traverse in from fresh squeeze to keep from yawning. It's a good way to unwind after a 7 hour pre-inspection of Flying Circus.

I bet that sissy didn't do the sit-start to reasonable richard. Probably should go back and do it again so he can say he climbed it.

I think he's being facetious, kevbone. Joseph, that would be the "avoid the wasps last fall" variation. You still get the business of the pitch and you're not plugging cams blindly into wasps falling out of the crack while making two maybe 5.10 layback moves at the base. We came back and removed the wasps later. re: wasps on dod's. You probably won't even notice them there in this cooler weather. Just good to know that they are there.

Damn paperwork! And they want receipts from the last 15 helens slogs. I'm getting audited this year, I know it. All because I bumped up a tier in the slog bracket last fall.

There's almost an EXACT duplicate of this photo in Cascade Select Vol II, on Total Soul.

Hard to carry on with life when you can't even trust the road you're walking on.

Clearly you did not attend the Mountaineers Sling Symposium (MSS 07, Enumclaw), as you would know perlon is woefully insufficent on the slow-pull at the diameter needed to sling hexes. Don't worry, I've already reported this incident to the Slinging Judge Advocate General

cbs is busy weighing hexes with his triple beam balance

Dammit I thought the week-long prusiking seminar was enough. My main concern is if just one of those many total strangers with you in a group trip blows up for some reason, it becomes your problem. Hopefully the leader is observant and situationally aware.

Sorry, didn't mean to accuse you of anything. The Mountaineers have served as an internet punching bag frequently here, sometimes deservedly, sometimes unfounded. Many people feel it's inherently unsafe or just inappropriate to head into wild places with a bunch of people you don't really know each time, in a large group, often where only a couple in that group really know what's going on. If those leaders are solid, things can be smooth. If they are not-so-solid, things can get ugly. These organizations can provide a regimented learning environment that works well for a lot of people. Others prefer to have a mentor of some kind introduce them to the hard lessons of mountaineering in a one-on-one situation. Many people don't have the luxury of someone patient enough to do this, however. But many experienced climbers learn to realize how rewarding it can be to help guide someone on their first outings, even if they are not challenged by the route itself. It can be quite an accomplishment to safely navigate a complete novice through tricky terrain and have that person feel safe at all times. There are plenty of folks from the Mountaineers on here who can chime in about the internals of the organization. This is simply a perspective from someone outside, who has met them "in the field". I have met some great, highly-competent individuals from the club, and some who I never want to be near again in the mountains. Sorry for the pontification!

The ultimate troll? If it is, it's an exceedingly good one.

only tools drive in Portland. It's all about the bike.

there's a killer pancake house on powell, apparently. Forgot what it's called.

Damn, totally missed you out there today Bill, you're pretty stealthy. Not sure how you missed JH as he was wailing away. Those folks on Blownout looked to be getting baked, and I don't mean the good kind. If it's any consolation, I saw him whip on the crux too. That pitch is every bit of its grade. Thanks for the screamer idea. I'd be a little concerned about the oscillations as it deployed, but I guess it's better than a static yank ala funkness device. The pins are good, I should just suck it up. Right Gull is definitely a safer proposition now. Just on bits of it today even.