kevbone

Who is that?

Ben and I reached the top of the first crux pitch only to have Ben say "shhh....what is that? Do you hear that? We looked up to see fist size rocks and many smaller ones come whipping by us like bullets. We leaned in to the wall and prayed we would not get hit. There was two different showers of these in like 8 or 9 minutes......like a bowling alley.

Nice.....I love that climb.

Thanks…..I did the TR because I have discussed this route so much without even climbing it…..so now that I have had first hand experience…..I feel my thoughts are more valid. If I ever do it again….I will bring a hand bolt kit and fix the problem of no anchor. That was just ridiculous.

Ive been told the record for the CNR is 6 hours c to c / solo....fing crazy.

You know they have to be rednecks......

Nice.......

How will your kids feel if you fall off and die?

What is so filthy about it?

Good morning Raindawg.

i used to stick clip the anchor inthe middle of FFS so didn't have worry about fishing in the gear on the crux and risking a grounder. You funny man.....

Completely outrageous……but cool never the less…….

Oh yeah......we also baby proofed a couple of rooms in our house this weekend.....fun stuff I tell you......

You are sadly only waving a red flag in front of a bull here Kevin. Nice TR but was your camera broken? BTW, what was your car to car time? __________________________________________________________________ Opps, asked and answered! Damn, thats a long route. Didn't Ben just climb the Grade 6 West Face of El Cap in 13 hours with Avitrip? Were you slowing him down:-0 Bill it took at least 3 to 4 hours to rappel. I hate rappelling.

I climbed IB and got super sunburned. Chard more like.

Come down off your high, pal. No "props" to you or the "first ascensionist" [and are they "ascensionists" if they rap-bolted???] The route is a disgrace and in a wilderness area no less. There's no problem with access...you obviously had no problem gaining access to it...it's an ethical issue...for example, whether you can live with yourself for having endorsed this atrocity. Maybe you can brag to your buddies in the future that you were one of the relatively few that climbed it, because I've heard there are some that might take action, physical or legal, against this offense in the near future. Classic? You haven't been out much, have you. A long time? Very doubtful. Rain.....why dont you go climb the route....the first 14 pitches are quite stellar.....super solid granite.

That is a lot of work when there should have been an anchor in the first place. We ended up making two extra raps of stumps in the wall.....if I ever climb it again....I will bring a hand drill and place an anchor a couple of lead bolts. On lead.

I second that.

Ivan....I would say it is worth anybody's time. This is and will be classic climb for a long time. Wear your helmet.

There is gear...but the rock around the gear is poor....I do not believe it would even hold your body weight.

embarrassing? How is it embarrassing? And to who?

We left the car at 5 am and returned at 6 pm.

Trip: Mt. Garfield - Infinate Bliss Date: 7/8/2007 Trip Report: Beaconben (Ben Priestly) and I climbed IB on Saturday. Man after all the talk……this is what I have to say…. The first 14 pitches are a great climb all in it self….then you wander up into a sea of loose granite with no bolts to lead you to where the anchors are. In other words we got lost. We belayed off stumps and shrubs sticking out of the wall. On the way down we did find the rappels but there is an anchor missing. Well….I don’t think it was ever installed……there is a 50 foot down climb on 5.4 terrain with 2000 feet of exposure under you. Yikes….. Question about the mandatory down climb: who would spend so much quality time drilling bolts and anchors…..just to not place one more for safety? We ended up making an extra two raps off branches sticking out of the wall….and its way more than 50 of down climbing……matter of fact I think the length of the rappels on the topo where way off. I would say were there was bolts they did a great job, but then you get way up on the route and there is about 600 of climbing with no bolts on not so good granite. You can supplement gear here and there. But the rock you are placing you cams behind sucks and would not hold the 50 foot fall you would take. I did notice 4 bolts on the first 5 pitches that where not necessary due to a crack being a coupe of feet from it. Other than that the route was very fun and well thought out. This was a very long day…..what it needs would be protection bolts on pitch 15-17 and another anchor on the rappel, which would eliminate the down climb. Oh yeah ……one more thing. Ben and I almost got hit with rock fall…..they came at us like bullets. That was nerve racking. Pictures to come. Gear Notes: 25 slings and draws, small rack Approach Notes: They say the approach is 45 mintues.....that sounds about right. It is in your face from the get go. Note: I changed title, PP

I have to down load the pictures.