Dirtyleaf

Trip: NF Colonial Peak - FA: "First Date" Gr.IV AI3/M3 Date: 2/21/2010 Trip Report: On Saturday Beau (pronounced "bow") Carillo and I (Geoff Cecil) headed up to the North Cascades to climb something on Colonial Peak. We had a few things we were very interested to climb. The trip came to together with the help of Wayne and a helmet that he let me borrow. Then I left it in the backseat of my car. I guess I'll climb something on the NF of Colonial without a helmet? The approach was too...awesome. We had an open bivy below the face. It was cold. Woke up to a perfect bluebird day! What were we going to do? Not Watusi Rodeo. My head would've turned into a smashed grapefruit on an ice route. So, we just started climbing straight up from our bivy site. We encountered alpine ice 3 for a few sections down low along with some steep (70-75) degree snow climbing. Got up into the unclimbed couloir. 60 degree snow which turned into some short AI3 sections along with some mixed climbing up top. We simul-soloed the whole route but brought a rope, ice and rock rack. Speed was our ally as I had no head gear and was paranoid of things melting and falling down on my head. We pushed hard to the summit and ran down and grabbed our packs and started the schwack/falling down over logs back to the car. A great route, beautiful day, and a great climbing partner! Thanks Wayne! Gear Notes: Tools, bivy gear, crampons. Approach Notes: Colonial Creek

Life imprisonment in a federal penitentiary. AT LEAST.

This isn't about route development or ethics. This is about suicidal sport climbing, holds flying off in all directions, and chest and VW bug sized pieces of choss almost killing us. I think the choss should stay put and un-choss itself.

I almost got killed last year while trying a sit start through a roof at the M&M wall. Sport climbing.About 1,000lbs of rock. Half the size of a VW bug. The entire innards of the cave exploded out with a mere foot smear. Glad you're still alive! Even more proof that vantage is a choss hole.

Just got back from Vantage. Climbed w/out shirts all day. It's here.

PM Sent.

Woo-hoo! You know its time to climb when the ticks are out!

Bath tub with warm water. Drain rinse a couple times. Don't want to get crazy aggressive with it. They also make something that you plug into a hose and pull through. Never used it though. My ropes got shiny when I gave them baths.

Dude. Wednesday-Vantage. 3-4 of us. It'll be a real party.

I'd love to but I have to donate plasma tommorrow for gas $$.

Mommy? Can I have a popsicle? Yes dear, but only if everyone on CC.com stops bickering about stupid shit that's really not worth giving half a shit about in the first place. Then you can have a popsicle. Ok mom. I love you mommy. You assholes would really deny little Jimmy a popsicle?! SHAME ON YOU!

Applause, crowd cheers. People standing and clapping hands. Hugs passed around. Everyone gets up and leaves feeling like something with ethical and moral value has finally been established and we can all go home with our heads held high. It's about time you guys!

hh As for me, well, my real name is Patt Gallerkins. There you have it. Hi, I post on cc.com and my name is ______________. "Everybody in response," Hi _______________!" Yay! Flowers and rainbows and ponies and unicorns and dinosaurs too! Good job everyone.

Just pick one of the days I have off and send me a pm.

Yes. Here is my work schedule: Mon:Free Tues:Free Wed:Free Thurs:Free Fri:Free Sat:Free Sun:Free

My real name? Beefstud Meatpile. Pleased to meetcha. I think the spray forum is a legit way to unload our personal problems in any (all) areas of our "real" lives. Why not? Spray it, and move on. Besides, its free! It's much cheaper than the $165/hr my last psychiatrist charged. Huffy McGruff. Spiderpants Assgraber.

I jerked off a couple times, went bouldering, drank a bunch of coffee, avoided eye contact with every woman I saw. I did a good job. I also watched Office Space and Anchorman. Anchorman is the funniest movie of all times.

Weather outlook looks pretty fair later this week. Let's go climb! We'll need your rope. Send me a pm. -Geoff

YUP. Positive, than a negative. Like I said earlier, people were born to fuck up. Shit happens. Hopefully you don't pull the short straw.

Positive than a negative:"Old vs.Bold" 1.Fred Beckey 2.Wolfgang Gullich, Todd Skinner, John Bachar, Johnny Copp. To name a few...

Hey. Even experts die and fuck themselves up. Rapping off the ends of their ropes etc. You don't have to climb hard or soft to fuck up. I never fucked myself up while sketching up 5.8's when I was a noob. Get over yourself. Mum's the word, bitch. Get over yourself. Jesus.

Sweet!

Just not anytime soon.