Kimmo

i would also add that a cool thing about climbing is that one can choose to do any climb in their own style. as an example, i led climax control with gear (which it takes slendidly for the first half or so, but none in the last 20 or 30) and it was just as rewarding (maybe more so?) than if it had been a trad climb in the first place.

i called you insane for very different reasons, bud.

it was the "porker" bit, wasn't it?

uh oh. someone said to keep this guy away from the bottle.

one keg of konings hoeven quadruppel, please!

definitely fun stuff. this isn't a bad question, and here's my answer: 1). some climbs simply cannot be top-roped. there's plenty of steep stuff even here in WA that would be silly and dangerous for everyone involved if top-roped. 2). on many routes, setting up a top-rope would involve at the very least a via ferrata simply to access the top of the climbs: a VIA FERRATA! WHERE WOULD THAT LEAD US? 3.) for the sane person, having a few bolts here and there simply is not a big deal. the visual impact is minimal, with most non-climbing people being ENTIRELY unaffected. and the "ethical" impact is also quite minimal, with only a handful of malcontents decrying the "death" of their beloved "ideals". i have more to say, i always do, but i have to run to the store now, so bye bye.

didn't i hear something about high-school in an earlier post of yours? btw, a good variation you might try: match the pocket on The Razor, then to the top. good times!

btw, i miss yer friend donald. he needs to have a drink and come over and play.

definitely not one of your better efforts, but then when i think back to your better efforts, i realize it's just par for the course (muthafucka). buahahahahahaaaaa

he seems pretty damn smart. holeeyyyyy.... i have NEVER been called such names here before!

figgered you needed a guide, muthafucka.

depends on how you define "play", muthafucka.

i got a pair of kaukulators for sale. excellent shape, near perfect soles, size ~41 or 42 (can't remember). as you know, a good all-arounder. lemme know if close to your size, and interested.

don't try too quickly. make sure you rest plenty.

what he said. if you are trying to rp quickly, it doesn't make sense to go to the anchors every time if you already have the thing wired; all you're doing is tiring yourself out for the next rp go. instead make sure you know what you did wrong, do the move if need be, then lower off and rest plenty. an hour of rest isn't too long, imo. if it's at all cold, you'll probably need a little rewarm, but more rest i think is way better than not enough. sounds like you've done all the basics already, like broken the route down into sections in your mind (good rests and how to use them, where to chalk, maybe skipping certain unnecessary difficult clips, where to go fast vs slow etc etc).

and the above is all it takes to keep the status quo, apparently. effin americans.

So do you clip a bolt before every significant move? it depends on how you define "significant move", but yeah pretty much. turning the roof's a little funky cuz there's a boulder behind you. the next clip is tough and you definitely don't want to blow it, but overall quite safe and very fun. ready for the masses! hehe btw i'd like to take you up on that offer for checking out your climbs, or whatever you're working on (i think you mentioned something like this?). i have climbed a few heady lines, and i love the process.

this is what scares me: some form of "compromise". If there isn't a public option that ISN'T tied to private insurance costs, then might as well shoot the dog now. i seriously can't believe we even have these arguments when we are the LAST industrialized country without universal health care (and outspend everyone by a wide margin AND rank 37th, 30fuckin7th, in WHO's country ranking for med care).

bolting news-flash: so i put in a couple bolts for a new line yesterday, oh papa! climbs the first half of an established line, then pulls the roof at a new location. fun slopey-ass huggin and tuggin up to a good bucket, then wicked fun driveby off a crimp to a 1/4 pad three finger crimp, uncoil, right foot up, and JUUUMMMPPP around the corner to a leaning edge. FEEEL THEE FEEVERR!! holeyyyyyy 13a to a V10 jump move, then funfun climbing to the anchors. and Donald, even though the first part is 13a, i wouldn't recommend that part to you cuz it's pretty bouldery, and i know yer more into fitness test-pieces. ok carry on.

i think his conclusions were clear, but it hardly makes the argument regarding private vs public moot. here's a fun blurb about taiwan's switch to a public model: Taiwan changed its health care system in 1995 to a National Health Insurance model similar to the US Medicare system for seniors. As a result, the 40% of Taiwanese people who had previously been uninsured are now covered.[5] It is said to deliver universal coverage with free choice of doctors and hospitals and no waiting lists. Polls in 2005 are reported to have shown that 72.5% of Taiwanese are happy with the system, and when they are unhappy, it's with the cost of premiums (equivalent to less than US$20 a month).[6] that 72% satisfaction rate seems to mirror polls from most countries with universal care. what's the US rate: 27% or so?

Look close.....smith rock at its best. Kimmo project 1. Kimmo project 2. oh bug, i can only wish i would have been the one to slap bolts on such a beautiful feature. know where any others are?

yer not raisa who moved to cali a few years ago?

if you're reduced to living on cascadeclimbers.com, it's a sign you aren't very interesting. maybe.

i think nietszche talked about this, didn't he kkk?

ah lighten up! more photos please!