Kimmo
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Everything posted by Kimmo
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"more importantly"? i see where your priorities lie, missy. i do believe the mounties are calling: put on yer muthafucking helmet!
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gotta echo 530, and'll get a stihl 360 if need be. i loves me a nice chainsaw!
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first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008
Kimmo replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
so did you red point your climb yet? -
damn forgot to ask how your neutering went. got the skillz?
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because you're clutching at straws, and you STILL haven't come back with a SINGLE misassertion from Moore. i mean hell, even liberal me can call shit on SOME thing of that fat fuck's (i love you mike!).
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oh we'll see about the flawless part. and yeah holy i gagged laughing at that vid. chainsaw stalls numerous times as tree binds in wrong direction "what's wrong with this damn..."
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That's I-P-C-C, genius boy. i sincerely hope you're rolling eyes at yourself, cliff.
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indeed, fatso. as far as wedges go, i'm thinking at least three to spread the load. and yeah 3 guys. money? it's kinda fun really. i like puzzles like this. the money aint a biggie. i like challenges.
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yeah thanks for the head's up on tensioning; certainly thought about it and don't want to spring load it. eeeeasy pressure, slow on the back cut, wedges, and a close eye on the back cut opening. and notching like < so big tree doesn't want to kick the hinge out at half fall....
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first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008
Kimmo replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
shit, nice shots man. that second one gives me vertigo. -
but i do think i will video the circus.
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uh no thanks man. one clown on the jobsite is already enough.
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first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008
Kimmo replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
Full Tilt, aka The Tempest wall, aka Tempest in a Teapot. Perfect! -
first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008
Kimmo replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
? a strange assertion that i simply cannot understand. honestly, i have a hard time categorizing any rock climb as "important". i would add that only within the very narrow and arbitrary parameters of any sport (which climbing certainly is an example of) can said sport be deemed "important". and then to ascertain one's climb as "best"? pure tomfoolery. -
(BTW, good points and succinct post, although i'm not 100% sure i agree with them!).
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IV 12c. I suppose time will tell....
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i think the "FA" of this particular route was last summer, about a year ago? and wasn't a lot of aid used, since it was raining? such is my understanding.... i think it was quite a change in style overall, from almost an aid recon ascent, to an all-free ascent, yes?
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you do of course realize that not a single point from the film is being discussed above? i believe that if you could provide one single point from the film that you think is non-factual, your position might improve. but, maybe that's not how the game is played?
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first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008
Kimmo replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
i have a feeling that tom won't chime in here himself, rather abhoring the nature of on-line rabble-fests; i, on the other hand, simply adore them, so i'll fill in some gaps as best as possible. from my understanding, one bolt was added to the roof, near the lip. it was i believe rather quickly deemed unnecessary, and subsequently removed. -
hmmmm, is this kevbone's quote from another thread? not that i really give a damn about your droolings here, but at least keep it consistent. well i guess you do, in a sense. and yea lynn coulda named The Nose anything she wanted, but i imagine that since it was so ubiquitously known as The Nose, for what 20 years or more, she went with it. big deal anyways; a rose by any other name?
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first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008
Kimmo replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
no bolts on roof crack, or anywhere else except belays, i believe. a correction has been sent my way: someone lead out first, fell, left gear in place, then tom fired the pitch. they continued to the top of the climb, rp'ing the rest of the pitches as well. -
thanks feck, much appreciated. i have dropped a few trees before, including some 80 foot maples hanging over an office building with climbing and rigging involved (sectioned top down). i just haven't encountered something with this girth before! coupled with the reverse lean, it was a bit intimidating at first; there's no way it could be dropped in the right direction without mechanical aid, ie wedges and pull ropes. to answer your questions: consequences, a crushed residence; no visible decay, based on initial observations; good insurance; and yes. 20" diameter maples. i think i want to keep the notch a little less deep, and really work the back-cut slowly, with wedges and a come-along as mechanical aid. seems reasonable.... thanks again for the input.
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first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008
Kimmo replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
i realize my above post was perhaps vague. tom red-pointed, while placing all gear on lead, the first free ascent of the roof crack on what has been called The Tempest. He called it Full Tilt, and it truly seems to be one of the unique and proud crack lines found anywhere. Nice effort on a cool line! -
first ascent [TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - FA: The Tempest Wall IV 5.10 A2 8/28/2008
Kimmo replied to Sol's topic in Alpine Lakes
Roof crack goes free with redpoint completed: Full Tilt. Nice effin' work Tom!
