OlegV

Hey Clint, don't get yourself killed - save some flesh for the West Rib Glad you are OK.

OK, I injured myself . After about 3-week break in trail running, I started too hard, and as a result, my knee isn’t cooperating with me any more. After about 30 min of running, my knee experiences sharp pain, primarily on decline. The pain is similar to the IT-band syndrome, but I suspect it has different origin. I would describe it as very localized sharp sensation in the lower outer part of the kneecap. If I continue exercise, pain irradiates in the lower outer part of my leg - all the way down to my ankle. Curiously, when I hike up or down or ski, there is no pain. It is somehow coupled to pounding on a trail. I tried to take an active break for a couple of weeks, and than returned to running, so did my pain! Anybody? Thanks!

Hey Rod, what a great job with pictures! Very very artistic. Thanks for posting them!

Best prose I've read all week. Dostoevski would be proud of you, Eric!

Well, is there a tent out there, which would work both on the West butt and let's say on speedy ascent of one of the Denali ridges? Weight vs Vollume. Too small of the tent would drive you crazy during the long hours in the base camp. Lets say I-tent, as an example (thanks griz for betta). Wouldn't it feel claustraphobic having spen weeks in it? I am still toying around with the idea of a double sl. bag. Got to try this system on Rainier this winter, maybe just slepping outside the tent.

Couple of winters ago, I took a bottle of Russian conyak to the summit of Mt. Washington, NH - it froze on me, I had to melt it under my underware. For this matter, 100% technical aviation-proof alhohol works better

Congrats Dan! Did you do the right or left gully? How was the ice?

Thank you all! Thanks Chad, Rodney and Dave for letting me lead this sick ice, ... and for kicking my butt on the approach Thanks for reposting the pictures: dam! each time I do the TR, I mess up one way or the other. O2 - defficiency in the brain

Climb: Hood-North Face Date of Climb: 11/17/2005 Trip Report: Four of us, Chad, Rodney, Dave and I climbed the North Face of Hood this Thursday. We left the TJ trailhead at 1:30 am under warm, clear sky. It felt too warm and we all had concerns about the conditions on the face. At dawn we reach the base of the NF and stare in anticipation through the gullies. Neither the right nor the left gully look promising: plenty of thin ice and uncovered rock. After the brief moment of hesitation, we decide go for it and try the left gully. The entry doesn’t seem like an easy job: the base of the gully is badly crevassed and the ice is too thin to hold an ice screw. Fortunately, we spot a narrow strip of reasonably-looking water ice on the left of the main gully (most-left gully on the picture). The ice is somewhat soft and milky with the underlying layer of snow. We meticulously climb 2 pitches of WI3-4 before joining the main gully. From this point we enter the big stretch of the featureless snow slope of 50-60 degree. After climbing ~1500 vertical feet, our group splits in half, Rodney and Chad decide to explore the main gully and climb through the remaining ice, while Dave and I walk the ascent line to the left of the gully directly towards the North flank of the Cooper Spur rock. While Chad and Rodney encounter a lot of thin rotten ice, we go through some steep knee-deep snow and mixed terrains. At a time, it felt like the entire slope was about to collapse. At 3:15 pm, thoroughly exhausted and dehydrated we finally reach the human-free summit and become our descent of the south side. Interestingly enough, we had to set up a V-thread anchor at the Pearly Gates to get down through the steep vertical ice step. For some unknown reason, we were the only people on the mountain that day - what a beautiful sunset we saw! We’ll post more pictures soon! Gear Notes: 12 screws 2 ice tools 2 pickets (didn't use) Approach Notes: TJ trail

Any fresh news from the NF of Hood? I know some folks climbed it yesterday.

Aren't these $$$bastards building a new chairlift? Soon, Hood will become a Bachelor#2

Need your advice . Trying to save some weight and money on these expensive items. I need a tent light and tough enough for cold, windy technical routes. Definitely, can't pay $600. I got 0F down bag. One option to get the second down bag, another option to go with -40F and pay $0.5K. Thanks!

The Hood looks awsome! Thanks Chad - can't wait for snow to consolidate.

Incredible trip. Congratulations! Awesome pictures!

How many good climbers on this board are missing their lungs?

Maybe you mentioned already, did you climb Cassin in May or in June?

Speed ascent - is a way to do the Cassin!

Nice work Andrew&Co! Did you run downhills and flats? What was the night temps?

That's what I thought - the Cassin is mostly ice and snow route. I am debating whether to go in May or in June. June may have better weather, May is less ice.

??? Thanks Chad, when are you going to Peru? December is the best time, I heard. Do you have a partner?

Thanks, W. Did you guys haul the packs over rock bands? How much weight did you carry? I heard, people use very little rock gear on Cassin.

Here again, I am in brief poetic mood. Last Saturday Eric, Dan and I climbed the Beacon Rock. I was a first timer there. Now I see why people come back there over and over again. No questions, Beacon has the best rock around. Up there, sitting at the ledge and gazing at the Columbia River, time and the world itself are brought to a halt. And you just want to stay There forever...

Clint, West Rib is my second choice. I am definetly doing Denali in May. All depends how hard I train on rock this winter. I still don't have a clear idea how hard the rock is on Cassin. Thanks for the invite!

The main difficulty for a North-West climber in any long expedition is the lack of beer: