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Everything posted by OlegV

  1. I've been planning Cassin for years now and this objective is still on my mind. There are other interesting objectives in the Alaskan range I would like to try. I've been lucky with my partners, but many of them quit climbing, got out of shape or moved to never-ending home improvement projects. I would like to find a solid, no-drama partner with healthy mind and good motivation for winter training and develop friendship and intuitive understating of each other. In addition to climbing, I am involved in other aspects of athletics including trail running and crossfit. Send me a PM if you interested. Oleg
  2. Open minded partners for Alaska

    Are you on the path to new meaning or gave up?
  3. Looking for a partner for Hood tomorrow, Sunday 03/28. The weather looks pretty good. Sunshine or Cooper Spur would be good objectives. Sandy or Reid are a good options too. The worst case scenario is doing the south side for conditioning. Give me a call or text if you are interested. Thanks, Oleg 503-332-9405
  4. Climb: Lillooet, BC-Night N Gales and more Date of Climb: 2/19/2005 Trip Report: Misstep happened really quickly – I didn’t have time for fear and panic. Here I am, hanging over the steep edge of the Night N Gale’ ice cliff desperately trying to roll over and get myself arrested. Both - my partner Pete and the Russian ice screw - responded well to my slip, just in time to stop my fall into the abyss. Having experienced this, I immediately realized how short the transition between being and not being could be… The quality of ice at Lillooet was our biggest concern. Recent warm weather translated into very thin and wet ice making climbing conditions far from ideal. Pete and I decided to go anyway and try to get the most out of this place. We plan on spending three days climbing ice. The first easy day, followed by two harder days. We checked the guidebook and picked an “easy” Night N Gale climb graded as WI4+. I thought, this climb is going to be way over my head. The first pitch wasn’t too bad - easy semi-steep scrambling (WI3?) on wet half-frozen ice. The second pitch looked more interesting - nearly 60-m vertical ice cliff. The wall looked pretty featureless with very few steps and no rest stops, and as Pete discovers later, the middle section consisted of porous thin ice. Night N Gale: Pete is a fearless leader. I admire his skills and courage to lead this half-rotten ice cliff. Bombarded by huge chunks of ice continuously coming down from the route, I prayed for no fall. If he does fall, I wasn’t sure those screws would stay in place. Without a single slip, Pete completes the final semi-pitch without placing any protection. An hour later, Pete tops out and sets up an anchor for me to follow. This was the hardest upward climb I’ve ever done, and it was definitely over my head. No rest for your calves for an hour – pure front pointing. Rotten, very rotten ice, I wonder why it held. Halfway up there, I stopped feeling my left hand. That BD leash strangled circulation in my left hand. Use clip-on leashes, people! Somehow, I made it up to the top of the climb without any mishaps. It was getting late now, and it was time to go home. To get to the closest tree at the top of the climb, one has to cross a section of an angled rock covered with loose ice and snow. I went across this rock using my front points hoping for extra grip. No cracks, shit - I thought. And then immediately, I am sliding on my rear end down this rock, then down the ice curve and finally stopping right before the slope becomes completely vertical – thanks to Pete for saving my ass. We repelled down in complete darkness feeling very lucky: no body bags, no broken bones. Once on the safe ground and being warm, we had a few drinks and immediacy began planning our next adventure. The next day was an easy climb. I think it was The Tube (???) But, it could be something else in its’ vicinity. I don’t remember much of the climb - we went through some short steep sections of wet ice before hitting a big unconsolidating wall of ice and water. Here again Pete showing some acrobatics on this very thin stuff – the screws went in barely half a way. No place for protection. We needed more adrenalin. The Tube (maybe) Next day, disappointed by bad ice conditions, we planned a long 600-m climb that goes along a moderate ice gully. It looked like we’d have no problem getting to the base of the climb - only a mile or so of hiking through the woods. By doing that, we’d also avoid river crossing. We had an early start and hit the “trail” before dawn. The term “trail” is typically applied to a path, hole, or some sort of gap in vegetation allowing forward movement. We’ve encountered none of this whatsoever, nothing even distantly resembling the path. Imagine you are a fly caught in a spider web trying to free yourself out. And here we are, forcing ourselves through the brush, fallen trees, and tangled mess of tree branches. We loose each over a couple of times in complete darkness but fortunately are able to communicate by voice. After making a couple of dangerous traverses across the rock ledges hanging over the rough winter river, we finally see ice and are ready to play! It took us 2 hours to get through the jungle of trees covering only a mile in distance. I agreed with Pete, there was no way we were coming back into this brush – we had to come up with an alternative plan. Climbing was enjoyable and somewhat easy – plenty of chances for practicing basic skills. Time passed by and we were almost on top of the climb within 2 hours. After having a quick lunch, we slowly realized that the hardest part of the day is still ahead of us. We decided that down-climbing ice and setting up V-threads would be too dangerous in these wet ice conditions. Instead, we would traverse the mountain to the left – across the rocky buttress and the snow gully towards the trees. From there, we hoped, we can simply walk or rap down the heavily vegetated slope. And here again, we are doing this dangerous stuff walking across the half snow–half dirty rock slope looking for a good tree. Life repeats itself…but not to the full option. To make a long story short, we safely descended down to the river – our only alternative for retreat. At first, I was a bit skeptical about Pete’s suggestion to walk across the 100 ft river. It is rough (class II rapids), cold (the banks are actually frozen) and waist-deep. You fall in the middle of winter – you are a goner. There was no trees or any easy ground for crossing it. We reasoned we’d apply alpine tactics to do the job. Pete belayed me while I was slowly cramponing across the river getting my vital organs iced up. I had two sticks in my hands. One broke sending me out of the balance, but I managed to stay upright. By the way, GorTex doesn’t work well for these kinds of occasions. Now, it was Pete’s turn to battle the river, and my turn to belay him. Shortly after, we crawl out of the woods looking like divers with ice axes. Simply said, it has been one of the best trips ever. Continuos battle of men and the mountains... That long icy climb ]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/6323day3-4-med.jpg' alt='6323day3-4-med.jpg'> Gear Notes: 7-9 ice screws ice tools twin ropes plenty of slings and webbing Approach Notes: has to be invented on a spot
  5. Silvretta 404 on old skis, plus skins. $200 OBO Oleg ovarlamov@yahoo.com
  6. FS: Silvretta 404, skis and skins

    fits size 10.5. Large, I assume.
  7. FS: Sony Action Cam

    1) Sony Action Cam, 50 Mbps, HDR-AS100V/W 2) Ultra Plus SanDisk 32GB memory card with Adapter Brand new – took it for a test run and used it once – couldn’t return to Best Buy due to a minor scratch. I am selling both items for $200 – good deal. Come and test it if you will. receipt available Oleg ovarlamov@yahoo.com
  8. [TR] Whitechuck - Standard 2/21/2015

    Incredible pictures, Jason! Nice job..
  9. I would like to make a movie about the mountains and climbers. This project requires an action-proof video camera with good resolution and zoom. All I can think off is the "GoPro". Any experience with this camera?
  10. TFT FWA

    a freezing level on Forbidden is around 5000 ft - it doesn't look like there is any ice on it at the moment
  11. TFT FWA

    I'd be up to it..
  12. Went for a conditional hike yesterday. Started at the White River Snow Park, went via Mesa Terrace to the point when it turned into a knife ride, downclimbed 200 ft down to the base of the canyon wall and climbed out to the Palmer Glacier(30 degree snow). No ice axe needed. Hit the Hogsback at 4 pm and decided to turn around. 7000 ft elevation gain. Coming down in the dark was a bit demoralizing (walking on a knife ridge). Looking for new unexplored X-country lines West of South side...
  13. White River Canyon to Hogsback

    Sure, no problem. The route is safe, just very long, also be careful walking on a knife ridge, there is a lot of loose (but avoidable by keeping a good balance) rock there The crux is finding a downclimb to the bottom of the canyon (~100 ft). You should be able to recognize a very mellow-looking snow slope - a weakness in the steep canyon wall. I passed flowing water on my left (I suspect it represents a main drainage for the White river glacier) and started downclimbing 100-200 ft past this point. On the way back, a lot of water turned into ice creating a mixed route (!!!). I topped out at the level of the Silcox Hut or a little higher. It took me 2.5 h to get down to the car from the Hogback. Good luck and be safe. Do not try to climb back onto the knife ridge in the dark!!! Oleg
  14. Rainier park rangers close the gate at Longmire at 5 pm. If a climbing party is late from the summit, it will be automatically strangled in the park for extra-night. If a person is injured or needs to be home urgently, he will find no exit from this situation. I find it counterintuitive and unwise. I am wondering if anyone has a solution/experience with this issue. Thanks!
  15. Rainier climbing and Longmire gate

    I did talk to a person on a phone. In a thick South American accent, he explained to me that one can "probably" find a key at the office up until 5:30 pm, and after that "he doesn't know". It felt like the National park rangers are winter-hibernating. A mellow-land... Go figure.
  16. Rainier climbing and Longmire gate

    Wow, what an experience! Climbers should stand up and protest. After all, this mountain doesn't belong to the goverment.
  17. Rainier climbing and Longmire gate

    Thanks for the info!
  18. Rainier climbing and Longmire gate

    I think, they are trying to cut down a number of climbers and potential accidents.
  19. Looking for SA partners this weekend 14-16. PM or email if interested (ovarlamov@yahoo.com) http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/8025/2218/1600/Sunset%20Mineev%208.0.jpg
  20. Any interest in arctic experience? I would like to run up Sandy HW.. leaving Fri night.. The winds are calm, the temperatures are cold but the air is dry and crispy. bring exrtra layers.