JosephH

The Charlet Moser 'Rocher Mixte' Piton That was pulled from the bottom of the high SE Corner ramp was mailed to the BRSP office care of me. Thanks, I really appreciate that. It was returned by someone with the initials E. M. - if anyone knows who E. M. is could you have them pm or email me at extcontact _@_ gmail.com. Thanks...!

Jesus says gender, like ruin, is a choice.

Missed the glory days of spandex I did.

The + sign is how thing were rated before the 'abcd' started. How sustained might be a way of looking at it, but mostly it was just used when folks weren't willing to bump something to the next grade up. As you and Bill, nothing on YW is sustained, but I disagree with Bill about how it feels doing it onsight without knowing any of the moves. I think all three cruxs 'feel' like scary 5.10 until you get them wired - but, I could just be lite.

They put a lot of time, effort, and expense into building the Trojan Nuke plant too. And lots of folks were all for it and really liked all the cheap power despite the fact it sat yards from the Columbia. But it was a bad idea, poorly thought out, and had shoddy core tube welding. Eventual result: I personally put IB in with Trojan relative to how good an idea it was and how well it was done - badly.

Nice! Did this happen? Second that? Jeff Thomas and I talked about it, but on doing the rap on my own with that intent I discovered that they aren't single oak vines, but rather a seperate plant about every six inches with many of them totally compressed in the crack and filling it in from plant to plant. They also appear to be rooted way back in the cracks as well. So that part of my plan was a bust. The anchors also sucked and I ended up leaving six draws on them which helped, but not that much. Jeff and I then went back last weekend and replaced those three anchors. We're regrouping on the oak part and probably will attack them next winter one way or the other and get the other couple of anchors as well.

By Eldo or Gunks standards it would be more like: p1 - 5.7+ p2 - 5.8+ p3 - 5.8+ (one move) p4 - 5.10a or 5.7 p5 - 5.6 Onsight, not knowing the moves, it feels like 5.10 in a number of spots that also feel sketchy. Once you know all the moves it's more like a continuous 5.6 punctuated with the occasional 5.7-8 move and a one-move 5.10a boulder problem.

The divots are considerably shallower. There is no way that they will be as deep for sucking into rugosities and crystals as the DMM/HB ones are... These match up against the HB Brassies, not the larger alloy offsets.

Same shape, harder alloy. Pretty much like the Aliens / Master Cam difference in cam lobe hardness I should think. These won't get as beat up as the Brassies, but probably won't glue like them either.

they've got nothing on Worcester I used to climb at Crow Hill. I'd say the have a lot over Worcester.

What's that got to do with Mass. or Provincetown?

Unassailable - conservatives would try, but they all begin to question their sexuality more and more every mile they drive past Orleans.

Ever lived in MA? I have. Leaving Boston, the minute you cross I-495 you might as well be in Arkansas until you get to the Berkshires. No surprise there.

Karl Rove banked on the blind stupidity of the average red stater and basically never lost them once. He played independents quite well too, until he fell asleep at the wheel in 2006. Those stats speak precisely to why Karl was so damn successful - morons who will vote against their own economic interests and rights when someone waves a red flag of social and religious issues in front of them.

Just pulling from Dabrowski's topo... No interest in climbing it. Bolted bowling alley of what, a pitch or two of interesting climbing if that.

p23 - 5.9 / 90' / 14 bolts Pretty much sums it all up in a nutshell.

p1 - 5.6 / 120' / 2 bolts p2 - 5.4 / 110' / 4 bolts p3 - 5.4 / 100' / 2 bolts p4 - 5.6 / 100' / 9 bolts p5 - 5.5 / 110' / 9 bolts p6 - 5.7 / 160' / 5 bolts p7 - 5.6 / 190' / 7 bolts (walk) p8 - 5.5 / 200' / 3 bolts p9 - 5.9 / 160' / 10 bolts p10 - 5.8 / 100' / 7 bolts p11 - 10b / 90' / 9 bolts (walk) p12 - 5.8 / 110' / 6 bolts p13 - 5.2 / 130' / 1 bolts p14 - 5.7 / 160' / 10 bolts p15 - 5.2 / 160' / 2 bolts p16 - 5.0 / 80' / 0 bolts p17 - 5.0 / 140' / 0 bolts p18 - 5.8 / 110' / 8 bolts p19 - 10c / 130' / 17 bolts p20 - 5.7 / 60' / 2 bolts p21 - 10a / 180' / 15 bolts p22 - 5.8 / 160' / 11 bolts p23 - 5.9 / 90' / 14 bolts I'm sure it will make a great 51st classic climb.

If any of you are enlisted ex-military then it's worth noting the the ex-officers-only insurance company, USAA, has just opened to ex-enlisted folks as well. They are the best insurance company out there by far and I'd run, not walk, to them from any of the usual auto insuranance companies. I had my car broken into back around '93 and, while they did want a police report of the incident, they didn't even want a list of the gear that was missing, just a number to replace it. Not even a deductible. Got a check four days later.

Are you sure you didn't mean "fermented".

Alpinfox, tell Preiss thanks for the reminder courage and vision aren't measured in volts or recharged from a wall outlet.

We'd need a seperate Opdycke forum if Jim ever got a computer.

Layton, yeah, the 14.7mp acts like a significant zoom all by itself. On the case/sling thing, getting a camera off my harness and out of the case to shoot on lead was too much hassle compared to it mounted on the shoulder strap, but then I climb with that gear sling anyway as I can't deal with gear on my harness (yeah, I know, it's an old guy thing).

Canon SD990 Lowepro Rezo 15 case (lose the strap) Retractable Key Leash (attach to camera) Metolius Big Wall Gear Sling Attach the Rezo case horizontally high on the Gear Sling's left shoulder strap so the case opens towards your chest. Attach the key leash to the same shoulder strap below the case. With one hand you can now pop the camera out and shoot while on lead and even just throw it into space if you had to. It's what I do anyway.

I've seen all you guys free climb and you all could be way solid at it - if you wanted to - but the aid thing is kind of cool on it's own, and yes, in part because of all the cool, less traveled parts of Beacon you've been hitting. I go back and forth between the cool and slacker view of it. Edit: and not that what I think should matter fuck all with the loads of fun you are so OCD about.

I don't know. Seems like a lot more than the weather is going on with all this given trips to the Valley and all. As I said, interesting to watch unfurl.