JosephH

Convenient, what-we-want-to-be-real speculation is par for the course. Objective verification is another matter altogether and that takes several years experience, a shitload of time spent monitoring instead of climbing and, hardest of all, the ability to be objective in order to establish a relationship with WDFW where your reporting will have some credibility and will be taken seriously.

The roof bolt on the Oracle was definitely a positive addition as it really sucked whether you did it my way with just pro below the roof or Arent's way with a BD #6 above the roof in the slot. The second bolt, however, is an unwelcome addition as there is absolutely bomb pro to the right of it in the crack. And if a bolt were going to be at that level it should be on the opposite wall a foot right of the crack and up about a foot. Arent's call as the FA, but the second bolt really detracts from what is arguably one of the Gorge's top 10 trad leads.

Lots of lockers and slings from the Hollow Victory anchor...

That's not exactly the case; Lynn joined in the game quite late and after Scott and Brooke had each put in significant effort over several years on the project... Pretty sure Brooke and Scott had penises, and decades of achievement of other male climbing peers to draw upon for inspiration. Last I checked "anyone" includes people with penises.

That's not exactly the case; Lynn joined in the game quite late and after Scott and Brooke had each put in significant effort over several years on the project...

Knot particularly useful tests in a climbing context; the knots would never be loaded that way.

If you're having repeated accidents climbing it might be a sign this isn't the sport for you...

"The deader, the better"

Funny, that's why some folks lead and TR solo a bunch. They get in more laps with less noise, hassle and fuckups.

I don't TR solo, only lead rope solo with an Eddy, but like you been doing it for a long time by one means or another (since '75 in my case). But I also second all my pitches and when I do I'm essentially TR soloing. I do this with Eddy, previously with a modded grigri and with knots before that and have done it for thousands of pitches so I'm used to it as completely 'normal'. But, if I were going to go out and just TR solo, I wouldn't use either - I'd do what you suggest and just do the minitrax thing or a rig like OffWhite's in order to better focus on the climbing.

a) New. Nut from Atonement, assume someone took a ride given how well it was in there - might as well have the commemorative stopper to go with it b) Small stopper from 'Sugar & Spice' from a while ago c) #4 Trango Ball Nut from 'Hollow Victory', also been awhile

a) New. Nut from Atonement, assume someone took a ride given how well it was in there - might as well have the commemorative stopper to go with it b) Small stopper from 'Sugar & Spice' from a while ago c) #4 Trango Ball Nut from 'Hollow Victory', also been awhile

A total bummer an huge loss for everyone - always adapting to life and circumstance with style. He will be missed.

High on Hollow Victory. Also now have a small nut someone left on Sugar & Spice...

They're better than most of the old bolts on the climb...

Not sure why you'd prefer to rap from two 25kn aluminum biners with mechanical gates as opposed to two 50kn welded stainless steel rap rings, but I've got them if you want them back.

The lower and upper Jill's pins were replaced in late 2007. The original lower one was a short, thin Italian knifeblade which was split lengthwise the day it was placed. The pins currently on Jill's are bomb as are the pins on Blownout direct (the fixed alien could definitely stand to be cleaned though). Ditto Fear of Flying. Both bolts were bad on 54 anchors out of the 74 I replaced, I also checked virtually every pin on the south face and either reset or replaced any that weren't bomb and Ivan basically dealt with the outliers above the Arena of Terror. If you want to worry about something, worry about the five piece protection bolts placed in the 90's, as they were by far the absolute worst of the lot in the anchors. On the whole, the pins at Beacon way, way outperformed the bolts and I generally trust them a hell of a lot more than the old bolts.

Well, took a lot of balls to leave it where I found it - I'll have it if you ever see this and want it back...

bump

Give a shout...

Look, if you don't want me posting, don't post up complete bullshit you have no direct experience with and know nothing about. I.e. stop just making shit up. However, being complete assholes is fine, I'm never going to attempt to stop you from that as it just keeps points out exactly how lunatic it is inside the Beacon reality distortion field ("where everything is exactly the way we wish it were"). And here is Lisa Lantz - the WSP SW Resource Steward: Note the 'Steward' in here title - i.e. she tries to do right in protecting the state park's natural resources - something you clearly don't understand, don't appreciate, and think is worth vilifying. Bummer given she's all for encouraging climbing in the park system. But hey, don't miss an opportunity to shoot yourself in the foot. Well, I trust her opinion on fixed pins way before yours given you don't have the slightest clue about the state of pins at Beacon. Every single pin on the south face was inspected and either deemed good, reset, or replaced with pins off of Middendorf's ebayed spare pin rack. Also, given both bolts were spinners in 58 of the 74 anchor sets replaced out there it's impossible to come to any other conclusion that the pins placed at Beacon far, far out performed the bolts. In fact, the worst, underperforming bolts were placed in the 90s. So exactly what anchor bolt has "blown"? Name them... [ P.S. the two most dubious pins at Beacon are the first pin on p1 and the angle on p4 of Young Warriors, both are pretty much vanity clips as the odds are better than average either would blow on you. ] Seriously - exactly what pins have "blown"? Name them, or STFU with this bullshit. People who are not locals should take posts like this - and it is entirely indicative of precisely how and what these guys really think - as a clear indicator that they don't have the slightest interest in managing climbing at Beacon, working in good faith with the land managers ("cocksuckers", "cops", and "whores"). Just the opposite, they have one and only one obsession and in that they do everything possible to insure nothing changes in that regard. P.S. Yep. Dropzone rap line cut four times. Believe it, because only one of the two of us is continually just making shit up out there and it isn't me. On the other hand, that makes you chief-heir-in-line to that pathetic legacy.

Well poison squirrels, this is the last cc.com post I'll be making. You've finally convinced me you don't value early opens so I'll be ceasing monitoring the Peregrines and trying to coordinate any more early opens. I do have to admit to being utterly baffled as to your choices - like deciding you'd rather focus on deliberately breaking the closure in order to insure the park's phone message is right instead of having a full-moon party on the ledge Saturday night because that's exactly what this latest moronic three stooges stunt cost you. But hey, these are your choices - so be it and cool. But let's be excruciatingly clear here given I'm out of here, your actions of the past three years are directly responsible for, and have insured, the closure will stand, unaltered, for years to come. In fact, if you're smart you won't even say the word 'closure' again until about 2020 or so. You especially shouldn't make the mistake of saying word one about it in your little movie - that would be a colossal fuckup (hint, guess how many Mazama and AAC members are [i know, reprehensibly] also Audubon members?). Unbelievable really, that you claim to want to lift or amend the closure, but then proceed to vilify and act adversarially and in continual bad faith with the very "cops" and "whores" who are the ONLY people who could make that happen. And guess what? There is no amount of outrage, public campaigning, scientific guns-for-hire, facebook postings, or wailing which can force those individuals to make the changes you want. NONE, NADA, ZERO. The ONLY hope you had was establishing long-term good faith, trusted, mutually-respected working relationships with them in the hope over time you'd be able to work out a trial run at modifications and then pray none of you fucked it up. But you guys have made it way more than clear you aren't having any of it and that the "cops" and "whores" who manage the park can go fuck themselves - cool, but the only ones who keep getting fucked with that approach, that resentment and that spite is you. Brilliant!!! All I can guess is the closure whining you've raised to a high art form just feels so good at this point you can't live without it. So I'm out - out of cc.com, out of monitoring, out of coordinating early opens with the agencies, and hopefully out of earshot of the years of Feb 1st whining to come. I'm perfectly happy with my climbing alternatives during the closure and looking forward to getting out to Beacon. Which brings up a final comment. You guys really have no idea what I'm about, but let's put it this way, if I have less than a cordial time out there, or if I run into any more uncivil actions like the four times my DZ rap line has been cut (the last time below edge where it couldn't be seen) then we are all - myself included - going share in some seriously profound remorse. My advice, make your decisions wisely and leash your dogs as I'll be around, but beyond this post you'll never hear the word 'closure' from me again. See ya...

In business, as in life, it helps to not be an asshole. Well, my business is great - how's that closure working for you? And maybe you should have thought about that before heading up the West Face in an intrepid expedition to prove that the last ranger standing at Beacon, working double shifts with pneumonia, fucked up the phone message. But of course you couldn't be troubled to call ahead or swing by the station to clarify if that was an oversight, no and not because you were being an adversarial asshole, but because you were on a holy mission. And exactly what was the point of that mission? To insure the phone message and website closure messages were corrected? Well, kudos to you boys, 'mission accomplished', and damn if you didn't get just the desired result! But now maybe you could explain to the faithful here exactly how that helped the closure crusade? I mean, really, I'm sure inquiring minds want to know and all.

Well, as with Kevin's claim of saying one thing and doing another, please do cite an instance, otherwise it's just more of your whole-fabric-from-the-ether, overly-dramatic mewling. I mean, WTF, for a bunch of guys who like to spout "keeping it real", you rarely if ever do. so can you define, you guy's?…. what guy's? do you have a list of guy's? Sure... guys (gis): 1) Those who incessantly (as in endlessly droning on and on) whine about the closure whipping themselves into a frenzied pitch sufficient to finally do something about it and then manage to do just about everything possible to insure it won't be changed anytime soon. 2) Those who decided harassing, shit-talking and having no relationships with the only people who have the power to amend or lift the closure would be the smart way to go. 3) Those who can read "da man's" website for a standard July 15th closure lift date, yet couldn't be bothered to learn to monitor so don't have the slightest clue what the status of the birds is or - given we've had an super-warm spring - whether the rock couldn't have been open the weekend before last or not.

As if you have the slightest clue about anything whatsoever. And like Kevin said, it's Dropzone.