JosephH

Or - seeing how globalization appears to be working and leveling the playing field - we just take our place along side every other struggling third world country given our unwillingness to foster a healthy, highly-skilled workforce. That was another of Thurow's comments that day: His point being no nation can run a decent school system with everyone doing their own thing with no national standards of achievement. P.S. Oh, and it isn't the teachers who are to blame - it's the parents.

What's the fastest c2c time on it with a dog?

Yes, the secret door to the Reptilian HQ has been exposed!!!

The orange line is Riverside.

Good to know. Already have a pretty bum left shoulder, always trying to avoid screwing it up worse or overdoing the right one. Yeah, Riverside is on the Upper Grassy Ledges. You can get up there by starting the first bit up to the LoLP and cutting left. I get up there by going down to the last step before stepping down to the little ledge at the top of Flying Dutchman and doing the boulder moves right there on the corner. Either way will get you there and Riverside is pretty obvious both by it's left-leaning arc and by the nice moss-carpeted ledge at the base of it.

Yes, finally got out and was checking on all the YW fixed pro. Was seconding p4 when Rick went by under me. I had stopped to clean things up a bit, and had hung my rope-soloing pack from the rope while I did so I could move around easier. Need to go up and really clean p3 down to the ground in one of the next few late nights. What a mess.

Sorry to hear that, but you did the right thing relative to 'pouring more ommf' into the start of it, not much else can be done there but that. Might have to get that shoulder looked at if it's still out of whack. Do you recall the particular movement or position you were in when it happened (always looking to avoid shit like this myself)?

How did the wide section go?

The laughable thing is I drove one that same model Rolls in Chicago once - what a piece of shit, and a noisy one at that. You want a luxury car of that class, get a Maserati sedan.

If you guys need any beta then maybe get ahold of Chuck Boyd who did a trip to Broad / K2 in 2008. They got to K2 base camp just as all hell broke loose and spent their time there assisting with the rescue efforts. http://www.verticalrealms.com/aboutus.html

YW / SE Corner Safety Note ========================= The first large rock hanging above the top of the rockfall scar - the rock you see to your right as you finish YW proper - is precariously perched and should not be climbed over or disturbed in any way. It's hard to see just how precarious unless it is viewed from the S/SE, as in finishing YW. The temp work anchor will be removed asap to eliminate any temptation to be over that way. In general, please just avoid the whole rockfall scar area, particularly the top of it just below where the SE Corner and YW meet. If you're coming up LW then you should stay to the right at the top of the scar or better yet, exit the scar as low as possible and come up to the right of it.

All the fixed pro on the route is as it was, though the loss of the super-luxurious rail for the exit of the p3 crux makes it a bit of a spicier proposition. Sort of a "you don't know what you've got 'til it's gone" sort of deal. All in all it looks like YW p1-p3 definitely took the brunt of rockfall and is a complete mess and will be until it gets cleaned up. Will have to think about that one a bit as it won't be a straightforward affair no matter how it's done.

Well, I'm headed out there right now and will check on it...

Are you sure? Both pins were solid when I checked them last year; neither would ever come out on their own. Maybe someone fell and pulled one? Which of the two is missing - the one on the way up to the crux or the one up in the start of the dihedral?

My old climbing partner did his masters in peoples' ability to assess risk. Pretty interesting stuff and by and large people suck at it outside of some basic instinctive parameters.

One pin, just above the crux in the middle of the slab. There is a second, unusually large pin as you come up approaching the rest stance instantly below the crux.

Does that come with or without a cult religion, or would that be an ala carte item? I don't know if I'd like being 'under glass' with that many other people and I think maybe he needs to take some weekend continuing ed class in virology and pathologies in industrial farming [of humans].

That's actually a very nice route on the North side. This is the money side of Beacon:

There has always been a badly drilled bolt w/ a loose nut at the p4 crux. It's between two pins, one big one as you come up to the crux and another in the middle of the slab after you pull the crux.

Are you saying there is now a bolt above the p4 crux bolt and slab pin? If so I'll take care of it Sat/Sun night when I do it.

I'd take eight of them...

Talked with Vivian and she'll track it down. It apparently got misplaced over the course of the changing of the guard. I'll post it somewhere permanent when she sends it.

The north face has been doing that quite well on its own of late.

That's fine with me, they're the man with the plan (CMP rewrite coming soon now that the new park staff is in place and the big construction projects are out of the way).