JosephH

The point of my talk and deliberate restraint from action is that as far as I'm concerned the "community" that these days is so pre-occupied with "service" should have done some the minute this abortion hit the collective radar. I.e. the "community" should have immediately erased it as group as opposed to anyone taking a lone wolf approach. That they allowed it to exist at all long enough to hit govt. agency radars was the first mistake. Not collectively eradicating in since is the second. It is a total and continuing embarassment simply engendering more of the same...

Choada_Boy - you have no clue what I'm about. Again, you don't want me on that route...

Nope, don't need to - it is by definition an alpine sport route and you don't want me near it. If I get on it won't be there afterwards. Ditto for any such route.

Glad to oblige...

Yep, count me one of the people that thinks ignorant bliss should be completely eradicated as a community service and effort. Any site making a topo or beta available on the abortion is just embarrassing itself.

Kevin, I completely agree and no doubt all the biologists do as well but bitch is about all we can collectively do on that one as it isn't going to close and any fight to do so or hold it up for our cause just doesn't buy us a thing. It would definitely make life easier on the BRSP staff that's for sure. And yes, the Peregrines were removed from the FESL in '01 but again, that is in no way a statement that they are a recovered species in any way or anything close to it. It simply means they no longer face the immediate threat of extinction. About half the fledges die every year and the Peregrine recovery will still require another 15-20 years of human intervention / support before anyone will have real confidence that they are "back" and a truly self-sustaining population across their historic range. It is a magnificent accomplishment and one of the few where we have actually been able to turn an extinction event around. It's hard I know, but here is one of the few creatures native to the vertical world we love and its a completely bad ass one at that; I personally am proud to share what really is its world more than ours and to help make sure it remains part of this planet. Again, tough business, but then again no one can say we don't have skin in the game and aren't willing to do our part when it's the right thing. We really are doing our very best to represent your and our interests in the whole affair and insure we maximize both the Peregrine's chances and our time on the rock we all love...

So would I Mark - so would I...

The difference is someone has invested the time and energy to develop a trusted relationship with the land and wildlife managers in those areas. Reopenning early is strictly the outcome of working relationships. It is what we have been trying to do - but again - there has been a decade of rancor, rogue behavior, and mistrust to get over to just begin to have such conversations or do things like co-operatively monitor Beacon. It hasn't been easy and it's taken the investment of lot of time and effort to get where we are today which is a [good] tenative start at a trusting relationship between the new BRCA, BRSP, and WDFW.

"I'm still wondering, if you know, when the last time, beacon rock state park rangers, knew exactly where the nest was. how consistent year to year are they with actually identifying it?" I believe this year and last are the first times that the nest site has not been known. Prior to this the Big Ledge has been consistently productive. We still do not know what has gone down. Also be aware that monitoring Beacon, as a free standing monolith, is very difficult compared to a 2D escarpment cliff. As for monitoring at Smith and Southern Oregon my comment would be climbers should be able to get it together to monitor in one of the world's most popular climbing areas and that Borton is obviously putting in the time and energy down South and good for him - folks down there are lucky he is. Folks should also note some of the closure date ranges off his web site: *** closures traditionally take affect January 15 (varies from 1/01 to 1/15) and ends July 31 (varies from 7/15 to 7/31) *** Worth keeping those in mind when folks start feeling agro about the ones in effect at Beacon. In general, most of the closures around the country are going strictly by the calendar because the Feds aren't putting out any cash for the resources necessary to do otherwise. As for the decision on a partial closure - the decision was taken by the old BRCA at a public meeting in Stevenson. They were particularly insistent on not accepting it. Reversing that decision - I personally don't think so after our documented track record of SE corner breaches over the past ten years.

So Kevin, you were what? Late teens or early twenties when the WA state law mandating climbing management plans came down coincidental with the WSP decision to participate in implementing the state wildlife laws? I understand the the resulting closure was emotionally difficult if not devastating for you, Mark, and the other folks that learned to climb there. I understand the pain, the grief, the anger, and the feelings of being "set upon". I do. I too love everything about climbing at Beacon every bit as much as you or anyone else and miss climbing it every day it is closed. But it's now a decade later, and at some point you, I and everyone else as individuals and a collective whole have to get over it, let go of the past and pain, and start being smarter about how we manage our business and interests out there. It's entirely an individual choice. I don't have the time or energy and frankly it's not my business or place to sort out how you deal or not with it all at the end of the day. But I will comment on this statement: "The birds are just a patsy's to keep us in check" I’ll assume this is just a loose, random rant because it is just flat out so delusionally self-centered and childish relative to reality that I've already had to toss two drafts of this response. First off - there is no "us". And most specifically there isn’t even a "them" out there who gives a rat's ass about "us", our whole little trip, or even thinks about us outside of us occasionally rising to the level of benign amusement or nuisance in the course of their professional duties or as mandated by WA state laws. At most on the upside, we add a little "color" to their job and that helps keep things interesting for "them". On the downside, so far we can be counted on to every now an then rise to the level of clueless nuisance so self-absorbed in our own trip that we simply lose all perspective and do things like bolt lines directly above drinking fountains with signs that say "don't climb here" or decide to use snow shovels and rakes to clean twenty yard wide swaths of cliff without even a thought that someone else might consider it habitat. Let me be incredibly clear – we are the smallest, weakest user group out at Beacon Rock and in the scheme of things we are more like an oddly amusing flea circus than a force that needs to be "kept in check". And that's actually part of the problem; our friends in the cabin just shake their head when we do something completely stupid and make ourselves stand out because they know in the "bigger picture" of the real world - where the Gorge Commission, Forest Service, Heritage, and Ecologically-related agencies along with the Railroad hold all the real power - it would be way better if we didn't make asses of ourselves in public or otherwise negatively call attention to our deal. An informed low profile is really what's called for given the incredibly complex and nested regulatory rubric that rules Beacon Rock. And as I keep saying, the rangers out there couldn't be more on our side - they like climbing at Beacon - it gives the park, and by extension them, a bit of adventurous cache most WA Parks don't have. And, I say again, they - Erik and John - have repeatedly defended climbers and climbing out at Beacon at every turn within their own agency and to all the other agencies with purvey over Beacon and there are many with no love for climbers. What "they" want is not to "keep us in check" but for us to get half a clue as to how the world works out there because they really don't have the time, inclination, resources, or energy to baby sit us – they’re too damn busy, under-the-gun, and undermanned as is – especially this time of year. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok, that's my own rant out of the way and now I’ll try to answer your questions / comments / concerns: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- First, let's back way up a minute on the whole falcon deal and get our heads screwed on with at least a slight historical grip on what it's all about. The first thing you have to understand is that the discovery raptors populations were almost universally decimated in the 50's-70's was coincident with the birth of the environmental movement in general. That the "recovery" of the Peregrines (such as it is given it is still a fraction of their original population) is still [politically] highly emblematic of the overall environmental movement's successes. Thirty years ago the West coast Peregrine / raptor population was essentially wiped out - two known nesting pairs of Peregrines in all of CA - and in 1964 no Peregrines at all were known to exist east of the Mississippi. It became the lifelong endeavor and mission of thousands of people across the nation particularly in the West to restore raptors to their natural range in an attempt to repair a half a century of human disregard for damage to the environment from DDT. They view their efforts to restore the Peregrine and each nesting pair no differently than we view individual routes and what has been accomplished climbing at Beacon over the same period. They have spent most of their adult lives dedicated to seeing these creatures safely back from the edge of oblivion and this is one of the rare species where that has actually been an option and possibility. I personally find it sad that these two amazing accomplishments by folks with a lot in common are having such a hard time finding a way to co-exist. But make no mistake - while Peregrines have recovered to the tune of something like 250-300 breeding pairs in CA and some lesser number here in the NW that is nowhere near a "normal" or "strong" sustainable population statistic compared to say the recovery of the Osprey in the Gorge - and the thousands of folks who have spent their entire adult lives getting this far aren't about to see this on-going restoration effort jeopardized or threatened without answer. Also, this crew is particularly defensive and testy in the face of the Bush administration’s all out assault on the environment. Just know they aren’t going backwards without a pitched battle and I can tell you its not one climbers want to provoke at Beacon or anywhere else. As to your specific closure questions: "Joe, if no one know exactly were the nest is, they really have NO basis for closing just the climbing area, I mean maybe the nest is 20 feet from the top were all the tourist are or maybe not a beacon at all. If you don’t know where the nest is, its all a sham. Don’t you see, the birds are just patsy's to keep us in check. They have no foundation for keeping the rock climbing portion of beacon closed. They can’t make the argument that me climbing there will in any way endanger the birds, because they don’t know where the birds are. Get my drift." First, it has nothing to do with being a “climbing area” other than the unfortunately coincidental requirement both climbing and Peregrine nesting need vertical rock faces. But there is every historical and biological basis for the South face closure. The South face of Beacon was a Peregrine nesting site historically and biologically is one of the best sites for their nesting in the immediate vicinity of Beacon – it fits all the known criteria and I personally have scoped out many of the alternatives and none of them match up to Big Ledge by comparison. So first off – don’t say there’s no a basis for their emphasis or closure on the South face as there is. Biologically speaking it is a known performer in having produced a good number of chicks over the past decade. As to not knowing where the nest is, that’s true, we don’t know where it is but we do know the Peregrines until the past few days have spent a lot of time on the West and South faces. We’ve pretty well ruled out the East Face as this year two clutches of Ravens have set up high on that face and are incredibly hostile and belligerent to the Redtails and anything else that comes close in to that face. But biology and many thousands of man years of experience and observation back the decision to give the benefit of the doubt to the Peregrines in the face of not knowing where they might or might not be. That same science, experience, and observation clearly shows we do have impact simply by our presence. In spite of all our cute, anecdotal stories about them “not minding us”, Raptors are small, computational supercomputers that signal process visual information – they are an entirely visual creature and all of their predatory and defensive mechanisms are based on visual processing - so visual and physical proximity both count. Their heart rates – i.e. stress – can soar at the mere sight of a natural threat or human let alone one in close proximity in their vertical domain. Such stress can and has caused them to abandon nesting sites only to perish because they were ill-equipped to compete with established pairs elsewhere. And also remember that when this closure was first proposed Beacon climbers were offered a partial closure that would have kept the SE corner open for several pitches. Much to the AF’s Andy Fitz’s utter amazement and dismay Beacon climbers said no – its all or nothing. As for closing all of Beacon, I’m going to assume you now want to talk about the real world where policy and politics meet and how human beings in groups get things done. My kneejerk response is to simply say “get real”. Back to the time it was sold to the state it was understood that trail is to be open so long as it safe to be on it. Is there no little apparent hypocrisy in that relative to the Peregrines? You bet, and it was and is acknowledged by all parties relative to the closure as a difficult and likely losing fight not worth pushing politically. It was a bummer of a compromise from the biologists perspective but they have to live in the real world and pick their battles just like everyone else. But it’s also a whining, dead end, non-sequitor as a useful argument against the closure. Mark, with regard to your comment characterizing the management of other WA/OR closures actively on the birds’ presence versus statically by calendar dates, I’ll double check, but I don’t believe that’s true at all and that almost all the closures around the NW and country are managed rigidly by the calendar – not the least because there simply there simply isn’t resources to do otherwise (that’s why I’m helping out). Also, at Beacon and most other places a decade of pirate behavior has done nothing except reinforce the notion among land and wildlife managers that these dates need to be rigidly enforced in the face of an adversarial climbing community that has, year after year, refused to honor them. To change that at Beacon to the possibility of an early open like last year and maybe this year has taken a lot of work to repair badly soured relationships and trusts. It has meant learning the laws, the science, and the history of how and why we and the Peregrines and their protectors have come to this crossroads. But it’s a step at a time and after a decade of basically clueless behavior the onus has been on us to step up to the plate first and prove ourselves. We just now are broaching a level of mutual trust, respect, and skin in the game to make actively managing the closure at Beacon a reality. As for the dates of the closure – that varies from area to area some start April 1st on one hand, but just as many don’t end until August 1st or 15th either so careful what you push for on that front. The bottom line is they need time alone to choose a nest site, to attempt to pair/nest/fledge, and to potentially try a second time if they fail the first time - which sometimes can happen for myriad reasons. At this point all I can say is trust me – I want it open every bit as much as you do and I’m the one foregoing climbing elsewhere at every turn to go out and monitor - if my word isn’t good enough then grab your binoculars and come out put in the time and effort yourself. I’m working to have it open as soon as humanly possible but be aware that “humanly” is the operative word. Opening isn’t simply a decree - David and Erik both have to post it up through their respective agencies for approvals and then they have survey and work requirements they have to fulfill relative to the opening – the most mundane of which are safety checks, signage, phone messages, adding being aware of it all (the possibility of safety/rescue issues with climbers and tourists alike) to their scheduling and work, etc. I can tell you the BRSP is solidly with us relative to opening at the earliest possible date that David can make a finding under the requirements of WDFW regulations. The three of us working together – BRCA, BRSP, and WDFW - will get it open as soon as we humanly can and I don’t know what to tell you if that isn’t good enough…

Kevin, that's going to take a few minutes to respond to while I write, edit, rewrite, and re-edit a response. Do me a favor in the meantime, though, and re-read your post. No - I mean really reread and reconsider your post - especially that middle statement and I'll be back to you with a response in about an hour.

I agree, I think the commercialization of climbing along with competitions has created pretty much just what Harding predicted in Downward Bound - putting the climbers on a pedastal instead of the climbs. I think any hero worship at all simply tells new climbers there are "unattainable ideals" which is pretty much total bullshit. Climbing is about what you can achieve if you come up with the goods. My only hero's are the people stupid enough to tie into the other end of my rope again a second time...

Beacon Rock Notice - 6/8/06

=================== Beacon Rock Update - 6/8/06... =================== Peregrine Monitoring Status I wish. Sorry - just been really stacked with work at a new client. But I have been monitoring regularly, rather than climbing, so I'm way, way behind the eight ball as far as getting back in shape goes. At this point, no, we don't know where the nest is. There was a solid spate of nesting-like activity up on Big Ledge in April but none since. We are working with David Andersen of the WDFW and Erik Plunkett of the BRSP on the issue and have submitted plans for a second annual pre-opening work session. The entire focus of this year's session is cleaning the Grassy Ledges and SE Corner of accumulated loose rock from both long standing accumulations and early 2006 rockfalls. For those that don't know, Beacon had a heavy ice load this year and significant rock fall on the both the SE and NW flanks. The NW face got solidly bombarded with a remarkable amount of rock in two events - the second felt like an earthquake over in the BRSP office. On New Year's day the SE flank experienced a rockfall from high on the SE ridge that, among other things, took off the largest branch from the SE corner tree. I only just located the origin of that rockfall yesterday. What came down turns out to be actually quite a surprise. I had been looking for a missing chunk off the side of the high SE corner ridge (the last high angle exit slab ramp on Young Warriors) but have not been able to see anything. Turns out it was that first big slab on the bottom of the high angle YW exit ramp that forms the top of the SE corner ridge - right at the start of the ramp and forming the uphill side of the little notch where the leader belays the last vertical pitch. It unfortunately left a broad, sloping dish that looks to be filled with at least an oil drum or two's worth of predominantly baseball/softball-sized rock (I'm viewing at some distance) along with gravel all poised directly above the SE corner P3 ramps and the P2 belay below as well as the base of SE Corner route. This event basically rained a substantial amount of rock across the entire SE flank, took the largest branch off the SE corner tree, and blasted the main "blackberry rock dam" on the Grassy Ledges as well scattering that added rock load all over the ledges / column tops in the area between the base of the SE corner and tunnel #1. Just the accumulated loose rock load on Grassy Ledges was getting out of hand and now the addition of the YW slab cutting has pretty much has made for a disaster in waiting. As for the opening - we don't have an official finding or opening date yet from WDFW for that (and hence for the work session) but I am increasingly optimistic we will see an opening before 7/15 - please remain patient and I will keep you posted as events unfold. Joseph Healy Beacon Rock Climbers' Association

I and others have posted descent beta in the SuperTopo routes database for Epi. You could likewise do a search on "Epinephrine" on both ST and RC.com. But the best way of dealing with almost all aspects of climbing Epi is to simply be sure and be at the base of it at or just before first light...

A Republican dominated Congress and Judiciary have for six years shirked their constitutional responsibilities in the face of an ever more imperial Executive. What's going on here is an out-of-control Executive finally got so full of itself it stepped on Congress without even thinking (i.e. Rove after a rogue Democrat to hold up for mid-terms). It's been just fine with Congressional Republicans when this imperial Executive abridges any and every one else's rights but then is shocked, shocked when it happens to them - oh, the outrage! Well, suck it up boys - you've been bitten by a dog created of your own willful negligence...

TrogdortheBurninator - Don't have an answer for the details and that's more than I will probably impose, all I can say is these folks test climbing gear all the time and are completely set up appropriately to do it against various standards. They were kind enough to test them due to our mutual curiosity. I'll try to set up another round of testing with a larger sample and I suspect they'd still be curious enough to do it but that's about as far as I'd be willing to press my relationship...

MattStan - All twenty of them appear uniformily worn with no specific points of wear that I can discern. They are also uniformly quite "hairy" or abraided compared to when they are new. I don't know the specifics of the testing but these folks do know all about every aspect of testing climbing gear. My friend commented on first seeing these on coming to the market that they looked great but that he'd probably retire them on an annual basis - pretty smart guy for just glancing at them as that is probably what the deal is - they are essentially a consumable commodity. As get used they abraid and the fibers break; it's a cummulative deal and so these numbers shouldn't be all the big a surprise I suppose. They become a bit pricy as an annual consumable but I really do love the damn things though I am going to take a look at the 12mm version... Kdawg - I only use my grigri for roped soloing as far as trad climbing goes - otherwise stick to an ATC (Reverso). mtnfreak - will give you a shout when I set it up, thanks...

Olyclimber - I shipped the results off to MammutUSA and I'll let you know if I hear anything back...

No word so far, I'll be getting out again in the next couple of days to monitor. Not sure how much earlier it will be - hopefully a bit as Karsten and also my old partner will be in town at the end of next month and I'd love a go at the place myself. The chicks can fledge remarkably fast from the day of hatching - like 30 (to 58) days. That simply boggles my mind to be honest. That means 30 days they can be are basically out training to hunt with mom and dad. Last year I saw the fledge doing a tandem dive with mom where she took a robin from right off the deck above the water from way up high. She and the fledge took it back up and mom proceeded to play "catch" with the fledge by dropping it for the fledge practice with. Pretty amazing all in all. Will keep you posted...

G-spotter, Bill, and Gary - the idea of testing a couple of new/newer ones in the mix is a good one. I'll let you know when I'm going to do the next round and we can see what we can put together. I'll also have to check with my friend as to what he might be will to do as I don't want to overwhelm him either. My main take away from this is that it probably is a bad idea to belay with a grigri/cinch or any other relatively static device when climbing trad on these rascals...

Still climbin - Hmmm, "stored", they just kicked around with my rack in all the places it went: basement, packs, cars, airplanes, etc. Other than trying to remember to not leave my shoes in the trunk I don't think about how things are stored (nor do I really want to have to worry about such things). ian - I've got a ton of 20-30 year old nylon supertape slings; I'll throw a couple of them into the mix next time and see how they fair. Thanks for the link...

TrogdortheBurninator, there were no real visually discernable "wear points" - but they were fairly uniformly "burred/haired out" from use. More testing would be good. I'll probably replace all of mine and have these tested so I'll keep you posted when that happens...

AlpinFox, A friend tested them on their QC test rig. Not a statistical sample by any means, but the testing was done on a rig used for this purpose. RuMR, I didn't see any untowards wear on the tacking of mine (and they didn't break at the tacking).

FYI, These had been used fairly hard as doubled and tripled trad draws out at Beacon over two seasons plus a trip to Red Rocks. I randomly grabbed two off my rack (all my draws are these slings) and had them tested: - Short one broke @ 12.93 kN (2902 lbf) - Long one broke @ 19.85 kN (4466 lbf) Both failed the full strength standard (4950 lbf) for slings. I love these things but they're probably only good for a season. Mine are all from Mammut as I like the way they join / finish them, but in light of this info I think of them differently as they're a bit pricier as an annual consumable.