JosephH

Sounds good to me with the proviso that I'd like to be sure it's at time when Mark can be there...

Who's not Kevin? Or do you also like to not talk about Beacon on the Internet by talking about Beacon on the Internet...

Well, Kevin, I didn't ressurrect this thread now did I...

Seriously, there's nothing about what you're saying here you can't rightly say as kevbone. And I'm not a completely insensitive luddite, I know just how desperate those first seven moves on the SE Corner are...

Bill, Sounds like I'll have to make it out some night now that you've dealt with the Russians and wasps. Yeah, the female was found dead on the side of 14 just west of Beacon. It's possible she was picking up something off the road and got hit. The two juveniles also disappeared about that same time, but David thinks that was just the normal sequence of young Peregrines leaving or being driven off as it is the adults who keep the territory. Last time I saw them, as Bill mentioned, they were being dogged all the way across the river by the Ravens in a 3 on 1 and 2 on 1 matchup - hard to imagine the adults putting up with such harassment. All in all after so much amazing activity around training the young to fly and hunt it was a bummer to have them all disappear. I did finally spot the male last week and it was good to see and hear him again. I've also been regularly seeing Peregrines at the 192nd exit on 14 (second light post on the on ramp), one out by Murray/Cornell on 26, and I believe your hawk along 205 variously between the airport and Stark.

I gave Flying Swallow a cursory cleaning last year but it definitely still needs someone to devout a block of time to it. DDO is in need of a serious bout of work - if Flying Dutchman was any indication DDO will take the better part of a day to do right I suspect as will several others. I'd also guess about 20 years ago is the last time some of these lines saw any real action...

Beacon Rock Update - 8/4/06

================================================= Beacon Rock Update - 8/4/06 ================================================= Anchor Replacement Project The following anchors have been replaced: "Prirates" (lower, bare) "Bridge of the Gods" (lower, bare) And that about wraps up the bulk of the Anchor Replacement Broject beyond a few odd / outlying stragglers, swapping remaining bright hangers for camo'd ones, and swapping earlier powerbolts for SS/316 bolts which will be on the agenda for late fall. Adopt a South face column route!!! Next up will be an effort to clean the South face column routes. In between "Bluebird" at one end to "Blood, Sweat, and Smears" on the other there are a lot of just great routes (free, aid, and yet to be freed) folks might want to consider getting on. If you have any interest in climbing any of these routes please size them up and adopt one for cleaning purposes. We have a tool suite available for cleaning I'll be going after the shrubs in "Takes Fists" and the trees in "Flying Circus". Joseph Healy, Jim Opdycke, Bill Coe Beacon Rock Climbers' Association Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com

The taco truck on 82nd a half block north of the Krispy Kreme donut joint is fabulous. My Wife and I have been going there for years...

Hezbollah wasn't expecting the Israeli response because I would be willing to bet their leadership wasn't expecting the kidnappings either; that they knew nothing whatsoever about the kidnappings until it was too late. The "brains behind the operation" of those clueless kidnappings was probably a couple of local border rubes that decided entirely on their own that a copycat kidnapping would be a great idea for Hezbollah too; who knows, maybe one or two of them had a brother or cousin being held by the Israelis. I would further suspect once all this settles down the Hezbollah leadership will make an example of these clowns to insure this sort of stupidity doesn't happen again if they haven't already.

You're too late...

I believe I'm #2 in line if they are...

Beacon Rock Notice - 8/1/06

================================================= Beacon Rock Update - 8/1/06 ================================================= Anchor Replacement Project Anchors replaced to-date this year are: "Pipeline" "Double Dirty Overhang" (top) "Excaliber" (lower) "Grunge Book" (both) "Borderline" (both) "Blownout (both)" "Pirates" (top, bare) "Bluebird" (top, rap) "Right Gull" (bare) "Wrong Gull" (bare) The "Right Gull" anchor was the worst anchor replaced to-date and some folks had wisely been using some backup slings/rings to rap from. This was a very old chain anchor and the lefthand hanger was on a severely rusted 1/4" bolt that broke simply under the weight of the breaker bar - there wasn't even a chance to apply pressure to it. The righthand bolt broke with next to no pressure as well, requiring only 20 degrees or so of rotation before breaking. Also, this isn't the best place to rap, but if you do it on a single rope then go to the anchor on top of "Wrong Gull" and rap again there versus using the single orange sling/ring lower down at the top of "Sorcerer's Apprentice" and "Old Warriors Never Die"; in general you're better off to just keep heading up to Grassy Ledges. [Edit: Just returned from checking and reseting the pins above the belay on "Right Gull". The first pin, a small, shallow angle, came flying out with the first slight funk, the second pin, a lost arrow, was good. It's doubly lucky no one dove hard on that first pin given it is an awkward start off the belay there. Had someone fallen hard, pulled the pin, and tumbled off the column top the odds of the old anchor holding it was close to zero. ] Hangers were replaced with camo'd ones or painted on the bolted routes around tunnel #1 and on "Old Warriors Never Die". Dogs and Parvo If you must bring your dogs out please make sure they stay leashed and also that they are vaccinated for Parvo which is rampant throughout the BRSP. NW Parvo FAQ Peregrine Monitoring Peregrine monitoring has continued despite the early opening. It appears the Beacon pair were successful elsewhere, probably Hamilton Mountain, and had two chicks which have been very active out at Beacon for the past month until a week ago. What is believed to be the Beacon female was found dead on the road West of Beacon and the two ever-present juveniles haven't been seen or heard since Monday last. At that time one was seen in formation with a flock of seagulls out in front of the island and it was attempting to "nip at their heels" though the gulls were basically just scooting out of the way and shifting positions and ignoring it thus raising some concerns as to whether the juveniles can feed themselves yet. David Anderson, the WDFW raptor biologist, said the male would feed them if necessary and that they mature very fast and then are forced to leave to find their own turf so the fact that we suddenly aren't seeing them isn't necessarily a bad sign, but possibly one of a normal course of events regardless of the fate of the female. Still, if you see or hear one of them please email Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com, as the info would be good to have. Joseph Healy, Jim Opdycke, Bill Coe Beacon Rock Climbers' Association Beacon.Rock@AvaSys.com

Arrrgggh mateys! We scooped the tourista directissima long ago - and hands off our booty at the base...

Surely someone's limping about minus a right Mad Rock???

Possibly the HR crew doesn't want it on the Internet anymore than you do you-know-where. I'd ask questions by pm'ing Jim Anglin at "Retired" here on cc...

OH! And to Bill for buying the beer - great selection too by the way...

Many thanks to Phillip, Bill, Jamie, and Bruce for helping move the last big load of stuff tonight. More thanks to Kevin for moving loads to free up the garage, and a special big, big thanks is due to John Stewart for days of helping Jim out and having him and his crew kick it on Jim's yardwork that needed to get done before the end of the month - a monster job and the yard now looks great. He's basically out of there and into new digs. Jim will be back out at Beacon all the sooner for everyone pitching in and helping him out - and that's a good thing...

Ditto to you for the last pitch - quivering flakes, steady cahones...

Bill, thanks for reminding me - I forgot entirely I need review/talk with Karsten about fixing his description if he want's it to stay up there. Until then don't use that description - use the directions I posted above and I'll try to review the MP one and talk with Karsten in the next couple of days if he and Raluca are back from the honeymoon. I'd never been to a Romanian wedding reception before - interesting food and drinks - between the Romanians and Texans I think the Romanians were holding their own better by the end of the night...

Oh, sorry - Shane cleaned the actual route portions of Reasonable Richard and Local Access last Sunday and Jim and I had previously thoroughly cleaned the moss from the trail up to where the routes split...

It's got to be better than using crack N' Ups and Ball-Nuts like you did! Might see a 2nd ascent eventually if you toss in a bolt or 2! We did do it with a bunch of successive crack N' Ups and lowe balls in row on several pitches but retro'ed pins in those spots later after folks complained they didn't have access to that gear and didn't want to do free leads on "aid" gear (I've taken long falls free climbing over both lowe balls and a #2 crack N' Up and they both hold and can be removed easily if used appropriately and both have been available in the past week on ebay...). Layton and Marcus did the 2nd ascent last year, and though I forget exactly what Mike said, I think they may have aided some on the last pitch, but I could be entirely wrong about that. In any case it did sound like they both had a good time on it. More folks should go up and give it a whirl. Just aim up and right at the Young Warrior p1 and keep aiming for the biggest square roof on the SE corner arete. After that start angling back towards the large ancient pine at the top of the corner down slab from the top of Young Warriors. It was also retroed with good anchors at the belays. You can also bail at the top of the third pitch with two 60's and will drop you right onto the Broadway rap chains. Bill and I gave it a very thorough pitch-by-pitch cleaning before Karsten and I did the FFA. The first pitch off of YW is a bit chossy and the winter probably left the usual spendthrift on that pitch, but otherwise it is relatively very clean compared to the FA and also free of [some unusually large] loose rock. p3 - p5 are neither chossy or dirty. One word of caution - you should not embark on the third pitch of Lost Warriors if anyone is down below on Boardwalk or Rythmn Method which are directly under p3 and p4. Also, the rap from the [rap] anchor to the right of p3 about 3/4's of the way up that takes you to the Boardwalk chains does have loose rock in the section immediately above Boardwalk so take care on the rap - it was also cleaned but caution is still the word of the day. No one should be below you above p2 - if they are you should abort back to p2 (I have had to several times) or have them leave until you are at the p3 rap anchors (and only do that if you have two 60's as you can't get down with one).

Well, given I replaced it I'd say it was still there. Yep, I do know all the issues and ethics and I (and Jim) made the call that the column access issues warranted the bolt. Check with Jim, but neither of us has changed our minds in that regard at the moment. But I can pull the bolt faster than you could pull the pin, so whether is stays is still up for some debate - go get on it and report back to Jim or Bill...

Lost Warriors? Kevin, add what you like - on lead... But back to the blantant hypocracy at hand, now you answer my questions above...